Pearls: Their Significance Throughout History

In a recent series of educational Instagram posts, David Warren – Senior International Jewellery Director and Head of Jewellery Middle East for Christie’s – showcased two paintings which highlighted the importance of pearl jewellery in signalling status throughout history. For a period, pearls were the ultimate treasure of the royals, and were valued more than diamonds.

The beginning of the 20th century saw a reversal of trends, as pearls (which for centuries beforehand had been the most precious gemstone known to man) began being commercially produced and cultured pearls flooded the market. This resulted in natural pearl prices collapsing, Warren states.

One of the most famous pieces of pearl jewellery in the British Royal family is the Vladimir Tiara, commissioned by the Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia from the Romanov court jeweller Bolin for his wife, Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna. In the late 19th century, the tiara was rescued from post-revolution Russia by a British diplomat, and the tiara – amongst other jewels – was transported to London where her son Grand Duke Boris was living in exile, and following her death, the tiara was auctioned off.

It was sold to England’s Queen Mary (Queen Elizabeth’s grandmother), who had it adjusted so that it could also be worn with the Cambridge emerald drops, as well as with the original gargantuan pearls. Both Queen Elizabeth II and the Duchess of Cambridge continue to wear this tiara to important Royal events.

Who doesn’t know the La Peregrina pearl? It’s famous for two reasons; the first being that when discovered, it was the world’s largest natural pear-shaped sea pearl weighing 55.95 carats. The second is that it broke records in December 2011 – largely owing to its exceptional provenance – in Christies’ Elizabeth Taylor collection auction, where it was sold for $11.8million. La Peregrina’s exceptional history includes a litany of Spanish Kings dating from 1582 to 1808, whereupon it became property of Joseph Bonaparte, then later, Napoleon. It was sold to the Duke and Duchess of Abercorn circa 1848, and its famous story ends (thus far) in the hands of the most famous modern jewellery collector: Elizabeth Taylor, who the pearl was bought for by Richard Burton in 1969.

Pearls have played a significant role in history as precious minerals which signified wealth and status, and although they now share the spotlight with diamonds, this does nothing to reduce their importance throughout half a millennia of our shared past.