Nigerian Soul: AKANO Presents its Vision of Colourful High Jewellery 

March 25, 2025

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

On the day I met Akunna Nwala-Akano of Nigerian brand AKANO in London, she was still smiling from a chance encounter while attending the BAFTAs awards the night before. The creative director of an important Italian High Jewellery Maison had spotted Akunna wearing her Chikaodili suite set with turquoise and diamonds and wished to pass along her compliments. This would likely please even the most experienced designer but is especially encouraging for Akunna, who only founded her jewellery business amid the COVID-19 pandemic. Since then, she has established a flourishing brand infused with large gemstones, a huge personality, and facets of her Igbo culture and language. Below are some of the highlights of our first meeting and the jewels I encountered…

Experiencing culture through jewellery is one of the most fulfilling aspects of my professional life. In February, I simply couldn’t miss the opportunity to meet Akunna and discover her Nigerian high jewellery company (the first I have discovered!), especially when all that was separating us was the English Channel and not a 12-hour flight! Akunna is a multi-entrepreneurial businesswoman who has grown AKANO by staying true to her own vision and trusting her instincts. Her designs struck me as being meticulously considered and surprisingly complex, which I only point out because of the relatively short time that Akunna has been dedicated to jewellery. A small example of this is in her use of pavé diamonds; rather than just dusting surfaces with equal-sized gems, she plays with size to create the impression of volume and dynamism. These are the kinds of subtleties that can transform a piece from good to exceptional. 

AKANO Mkpulu suite consisting of a necklace with 36.1 carats of diamonds, 77.1 carats of round emeralds, and GIA Certified diamonds, alongside the matching earrings with 10 carats of diamonds and 13 carats of emeralds and a ring with 6.9 carats of diamonds and 4.2 carats of emeralds, all in 18k gold

AKANO Mkpulu suite consisting of a necklace with 36.1 carats of diamonds, 77.1 carats of round emeralds, and GIA Certified diamonds, alongside the matching earrings with 10 carats of diamonds and 13 carats of emeralds and a ring with 6.9 carats of diamonds and 4.2 carats of emeralds, all in 18k gold

During our conversation, we also found that we had some very specific things in common. Firstly, we both discovered our love of jewellery through our grandmothers. Akunna shared how her grandmother was a royal and loved jewellery which helped to shape the designer’s tastes for pieces with great colour combinations, detail, harmony and balance from an early age. “I grew up playing dress-up with her jewellery,” Akunna tells me. “I’ve always loved movies, too, with women like Elizabeth Taylor. I said, one day, I will have this type of jewellery to adorn me.” We also both believe in the power of jewellery to instantly elevate an outfit and transform something understated into something powerful. For example, after the night out Akunna met me in rather casual clothes, but she wore some statement rubellite earrings and a huge diamond ring that instantly made her look like she is ready to go on that red carpet again!

AKANO Double Halo Topaz pendant necklace with a 16.4-carat topaz, encircled by a 1.87-carat diamond double halo, set in 18K gold. Part of the Hexagon Gemstone collection

AKANO Double Halo Topaz pendant necklace with a 16.4-carat topaz, encircled by a 1.87-carat diamond double halo, set in 18K gold. Part of the Hexagon Gemstone collection

AKANO Adaeze Red Carnelian drop earrings with D-F colour diamonds of VVS clarity set in 18k gold

AKANO Adaeze Red Carnelian drop earrings with D-F colour diamonds of VVS clarity set in 18k gold

AKANO ULO necklace with 2.89 carats of diamonds (D-F colour, VVS clarity) set in 18k rose gold

AKANO ULO necklace with 2.89 carats of diamonds (D-F colour, VVS clarity) set in 18k rose gold

AKANO Adaeze Hexagon Mother of Pearl drop earrings with D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds and 8.2 carats of white shell, set in 18k gold

AKANO Adaeze Hexagon Mother of Pearl drop earrings with D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds and 8.2 carats of white shell, set in 18k gold

AKANO Ezinne necklace with D-F colour and VVS clarity diamonds in 18k gold

AKANO Ezinne necklace with D-F colour and VVS clarity diamonds in 18k gold

AKANO Pave Hexagon Diamond bangle from the Signature collection with 2.4 carats of D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds set in 18k gold

AKANO Pave Hexagon Diamond bangle from the Signature collection with 2.4 carats of D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds set in 18k gold

Before we dive into the jewels, I want to say how informative it was to speak with Akunna about Nigerian jewellery culture. From her insights, it is clear that jewellery is perceived as a status symbol and an expression of affluence, background and personal heritage. More than this, though, jewellery is wrapped into the fabric of life, so much so that women like Akunna’s grandmother will wear jewellery from the moment they wake up, even if they have no intention of leaving the house. “My grandmother would adorn herself with five stacks of gold bangles, a necklace, earrings and if I asked her where she was going, she would say that she just dressed up for herself! She didn’t need to look good for someone else, because first of all jewellery is there to make YOU feel special,” Akunna recalls. Today, she has inherited this same sense of dressing for herself and feeling special through jewellery, making her a woman after my own heart!

Akunna Nwala-Akano of Nigerian brand AKANO

AKANO is a glamorous yet thoughtful brand. By that, I mean the jewels make a statement, but they aren’t ostentatious. There’s a considered quality to the pieces Akunna creates, whether they are more daytime-appropriate diamond stacks or colourful parures for a black tie occasion. The codes of the house centre around gemstone choices, such as warm rubellites (a more accessible source of deep red in larger sizes compared to rubies), Zambian emerald cabochons, and bold combinations of turquoise and tsavorites, among other chromatic blends. The necklace in the Chikaodili suite is transformable thanks to an extension, allowing it to be worn in both a longer and shorter variation. Plus, there are two pairs of earrings to choose from, large studs or drops, both boasting a trilogy of turquoises, tsavorites and diamonds.

AKANO Chikaodili suite complete with a necklace, ring and earrings set with round turquoise, tsavorite, and diamonds in 18k gold

AKANO Chikaodili suite complete with a necklace, ring and earrings set with round turquoise, tsavorite, and diamonds in 18k gold

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Chikaodili suite comprising a necklace, ring and earrings set with round turquoise, tsavorite, and diamonds in 18k gold

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Chikaodili suite comprising a necklace, ring and earrings set with round turquoise, tsavorite, and diamonds in 18k gold

AKANO Chikaodili earrings with 9.42 carats of turquoise, 3.34 carats of diamonds, 1.08 carats of pear-shaped tsavorites, and 5.1 carats of round tsavorites, set in 18k gold

AKANO Chikaodili earrings with 9.42 carats of turquoise, 3.34 carats of diamonds, 1.08 carats of pear-shaped tsavorites, and 5.1 carats of round tsavorites, set in 18k gold

AKANO Chikaodili ring with 2.62 carats of round turquoise, 2.9 carats of tsavorite, 2.4 carats of diamonds, and 6.5 carats of oval-shaped turquoise, set in 18k gold

AKANO Chikaodili ring with 2.62 carats of round turquoise, 2.9 carats of tsavorite, 2.4 carats of diamonds, and 6.5 carats of oval-shaped turquoise, set in 18k gold

Next, there’s the Mkpulu necklace, earrings and matching ring with plumes of Zambian emerald cabochons that appear to grow from a diamond-set branch. In Igbo, the name of this collection means ‘seeds’, and Akunna says she found inspiration in the dewdrops found on leaves. I was also presented with the Nko or ‘hook’ necklace, matching ring and earrings. I will admit this was my personal favourite, with a large 54-carat rubellite and a heart-shaped 5-carat rubellite above it to symbolise the ‘hook to my heart’. All this is enveloped in ribbons of pigeon blood rubies (to capture the idea of blood ties and strong emotional bonds) and surrounded by white diamonds set in 18k gold. 

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Mkpulu suite including a necklace, earrings and a matching ring with diamonds and emeralds in 18k gold

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Mkpulu suite including a necklace, earrings and a matching ring with diamonds and emeralds in 18k gold

A closer look at the AKANO Mkpulu earrings with 10 carats of diamonds and 13 carats of emeralds, alongside the matching ring with further diamonds and emeralds, both in 18k gold

A closer look at the AKANO Mkpulu earrings with 10 carats of diamonds and 13 carats of emeralds, alongside the matching ring with further diamonds and emeralds, both in 18k gold

AKANO Mkpulu ring with 6.9 carats of D-F colour, VVS-VS clarity diamonds and 4.2 carats of round emeralds, set in 18k gold

AKANO Mkpulu ring with 6.9 carats of D-F colour, VVS-VS clarity diamonds and 4.2 carats of round emeralds, set in 18k gold

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Nku suite, comprising a necklace, ring and earrings with D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds, Pigeon’s Blood rubies and rubellite, set in 18k gold

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Nku suite, comprising a necklace, ring and earrings with D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds, Pigeon’s Blood rubies and rubellite, set in 18k gold

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Nku suite, including a necklace with 34.88 carats of diamonds, 10 carats of Pigeon’s Blood rubies, and nearly 60 carats of rubellite, set in 18K gold

Katerina Perez wears the AKANO Nku suite, including a necklace with 34.88 carats of diamonds, 10 carats of Pigeon’s Blood rubies, and nearly 60 carats of rubellite, set in 18K gold

The AKANO Nku ring with diamonds, channel-set rubies and an oval-shaped rubellite, set in 18k gold

The AKANO Nku ring with diamonds, channel-set rubies and an oval-shaped rubellite, set in 18k gold

Finally, I would like to mention another piece – the Mkpo or ‘potion’ necklace - that reimagines an elixir vessel through a 75-carat rubellite, surrounded by colourless diamonds and a loop of channel-set rubies. The proportions are perfect, ensuring that despite the colossal size of the central gemstone, everything still feels harmonious and feminine. 

To achieve these complex pieces, Akunna completes a rough sketch and then her team prepare a CAD rendering to see if it matches her vision. Next, she turns to another company to calculate every gemstone required, right down to the smallest pavé diamond. Some of her stones are sourced from within Nigeria, while others hail from Burma, Zambia or from polished stone dealers in Asia and Antwerp. Finally, she works with two family workshops outside of Nigeria to bring her pieces to life. 

A closer look at the AKANO Nku necklace with 34.88 carats of D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds, 10 carats of Pigeon’s Blood rubies, and two rubellites of 53.38 and 4.25 carats, set in 18k gold

A closer look at the AKANO Nku necklace with 34.88 carats of D-F colour, VVS clarity diamonds, 10 carats of Pigeon’s Blood rubies, and two rubellites of 53.38 and 4.25 carats, set in 18k gold

What impresses me most about Akunna is that she is self-taught, and she relies on instinct and innate talent to bring what’s in her imagination into being. As someone who has also learned along the way, simply by reading, observing and reacting to the jewellery world around me, I can really see (and feel) how much passion has gone into AKANO. I can’t wait to see how the brand evolves in the future. 

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