Elevated Expression: Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Austy Lee is someone we return to time and again here at KaterinaPerez.com, largely because the designer's work never fails to impress. His signature style is so entrenched, so much part of his DNA, that an Austy Lee creation is genuinely noticeable from a distance. In the past, I've marvelled at his use of unique and unusual materials, antique artefacts, vibrant coloured gemstones and mythological themes to bring his psychedelic world to life. Now, the time has come to dive deeper into one of Austy Lee's most significant and sizeable collections – The Jade Dynasty – that represents the artist's passion for this misunderstood decorative material. Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

I like to think of this article as part four in an ongoing series that's dedicated to the singular mind of Hong Kong-born artist Austy Lee. When you meet someone with such a distinctive point of view, there are too many questions and answers to fit into a single article. Back in 2023, we took a closer look at his psychedelic signature style, including the religious iconography, mythology and natural forms that shape his work. Next, in 2024, we asked Austy to outline some of his jewellery-making techniques, including an abundance of lacquer, mother-of-pearl inlay,mokume gane, and Shakudō (a Japanese alloy of gold and copper). Most recently, in January 2025, Austy shared more insights into his preference for unconventional materials, especially antique objects, abalone shells, cameos, and Menuki, all anchored by his strong preference for 18k gold. 

Surprisingly, despite all these articles, we've never explored one of Austy Lee's most formidable talents – working with jade. Although it has certainly been mentioned, this material is profoundly important to Austy, representing goodness, preciousness, beauty and cultural connection. His website states that "jade embodies virtues such as courage, wisdom, modesty, justice and compassion" while also representing purity, intelligence and justice for its hardness and ability to take a high polish. Austy is one of many contemporary jewellers seeking to redefine the traditional reputation of jade, especially in Chinese culture, by giving it an edgier look. His work demonstrates that this classical decorative material can be modern and striking, especially when paired with coloured gemstones and 18k gold. 

The best place to see this brought to life is The Jade Dynasty collection, an ever-evolving portfolio of jade-infused high jewellery creations that tell the story of this mineral family throughout various eras. Of course, you will find an abundance of green jade in this offering, but also Burmese white, purple and orange jades in a variety of shapes and carved finishes. Listening to Austy tell the story behind this collection, you quickly realise how much is lost in the translation from Chinese to English. The Chinese name is 玉潮(Yù Cháo), which can be broken down into 玉 (jade) and 潮 (tide), which represent trends, waves, and fashion (offering more diverse cultural meanings that are open to interpretation). I have attempted to combine gemstones with classic Art Deco elements to create bold concepts, making the entire series a comprehensive expression of my views on jade, various cultures, and personal perspective," he tells me. "Therefore, Jade Dynasty will be an enduring series dedicated to creating a unique jade jewellery trend across different periods and eras." More highlights from our latest conversation are included below… 

Sarah Jordan: What are some of the challenges associated with modernising jade for a new generation of clients? 

Austy Lee: One of the challenges we face is that many customers have a limited understanding of jade and often view it as a traditional ornament. Although many people hold certain cultural biases against jade, I believe we can look at it from another perspective: jade is not just a material or a shape; it is an expression of identity. To some extent, it embodies communication between culture and people. Therefore, I have never seen jade as merely a traditional material. On the contrary, I believe it symbolises the intersection of contemporary fashion and human culture.

SJ: How would you describe your approach to creating a new piece for The Jade Dynasty collection?

AL: In design and life, details are crucial. Whenever I conceive new concepts, I often start from my daily life. I aim to transform jade into a modern accessory that can integrate into my lifestyle and become a piece of everyday adornment. Thus, when I create new designs, I strive to make jade a fashionable item of wear, not just a traditional symbol but a representation of everyday style. I hope that when I wear jade, it becomes a trendy accessory rather than being confined to traditional cultural frameworks. In this way, I am working to change a tradition while also weaving design into the fabric of everyday life as a small creative endeavour.

SJ: Is jade a difficult gemstone to work with? For example, is it challenging to cut, shape and/or find the ideal colours and dimensions for your work?

AL: Traditional Burmese jade has evolved over time, with new inventions in craftsmanship and tools making jade carving increasingly creative and detailed. In terms of image shaping and carving techniques, significant progress has been made over the past decade. 

However, jadeite, as a long-established gemstone, faces challenges due to the gradual depletion of Myanmar's mines. High-quality jadeite in good colours and qualities has become increasingly scarce, and prices have been rising rapidly, skyrocketing more than tenfold in the past decade. This price surge has made high-priced jadeite extremely rare, and the astonishing prices for quality jadeite present a considerable challenge for designers and jewellers. 

Nonetheless, new alternatives are emerging, such as the rise of Guatemalan jadeite, which brings new vitality to the jade market. This beautiful material and its colours have become a source of inspiration for many new designers. I believe that jadeite will become increasingly popular and favoured in the European market.

SJ: Are there any pieces in The Jade Dynasty collection that you are particularly proud of? 

AL: In this collection, bracelets involving the use of jadeite are one of my favourite design styles. I boldly use various shapes of jade, such as elongated forms or uniquely carved designs, paired with colourful gemstone inlays and a burnished finish to create a luxurious jewellery feel reminiscent of toys. You will find that my designs are filled with bold ideas; the asymmetrical shapes and unusual colour combinations make the entire series very playful.

SJ: Jade has not traditionally been a popular material in Western jewellery, but that is changing with time. What has been your experience of showcasing jade to your clients in the United States and Europe, for example? 

AL: As Western jewellery brands and consumers gradually gain a deeper understanding of the uniqueness of jade and jadeite, many Western brands and collectors have begun to pay attention to and collect designs featuring jadeite. In fact, I have many customers who really enjoy coming to my boutiques to purchase jewellery pieces themed around jade. They find my pieces both playful and elegantly refined. I believe that in the future, more Westerners will fall in love with jade, as it embodies a charm that reflects the exquisite beauty of Eastern femininity.

I believe that Austy Lee's fresh perspective on jade has the ability to inspire jewellery lovers and uplift other jewellery artists who are considering incorporating this material into their repertoires. Its colour palette is broader than you may think, and its creative possibilities are seemingly endless, especially when placed in the right hands. I have no doubt that The Jade Dynasty collection will continue to excel, reflecting not only the market for this coveted gemstone but Austy Lee's own evolution as a singular creative mind.