Blazing Treasures: The Radiant Allure of Fire Opal in Fine Jewellery and Watchmaking

September 5, 2025

By Joshua Hendren

14 min read

Fire opals have captivated jewellery lovers for centuries with their vivid, flame-like hues, so much so that the ancient Aztecs likened their glow to the feathers of hummingbirds, calling them huitzitzil-tecpatl, or 'stone like a bird of a thousand colours'. Formed when silica-rich water seeps into volcanic rock and hardens over time, these vibrant gems owe their fiery shades of yellow, orange, and red to traces of iron oxide.

Fire opals make a compelling choice for modern designers across both jewellery and watchmaking, thanks to their vivid colour and volcanic origin - especially in rare and highly prized red varieties. These red gems are also affectionately known as 'cherry opals' for their rich, juicy hue reminiscent of bright red cherries. Though softer than many other gemstones - ranking 5.5 to 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale - fire opals are increasingly being used in high jewellery and horology thanks to advances in stone-setting techniques. Designers are responding with protective settings and thicker cuts that highlight the stone's vibrancy while safeguarding its structure. However, because of their relative softness, fire opals are still vulnerable to scratches and other damage, so care should be taken to avoid harsh chemicals, heat or prolonged water exposure.

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In the continuation of the story:

  • Fire opals are being embraced by contemporary designers for their intense colour, symbolism and origins.
  • New advances in cutting and setting techniques are allowing this delicate gem to feature more prominently in fine jewellery and watchmaking.
  • From Tiffany & Co. to Beauregard, fire opals are no longer just accents, they are the fiery centrepieces of sculptural, technically demanding creations.

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