FORMS Jewellery:  Evolving Concepts and Pushing Design Boundaries

FORMS is a Hong Kong based fine jewellery house which specialises in creative gemstone design. As founders, Tzvika Janover and Elad Assor applied the knowledge and experience garnered from the respective backgrounds of their multi-generational diamond cutter families to form the DNA of a truly unique brand.

FORMS’ signature style is a highly evolved concoction of custom-cut diamonds and gemstones which appear to float mid-air. This visual effect is achieved by using minimal amounts of setting, and gemstones that are often custom cut to create their own tension setting. The intention behind this complex work is to highlight the beauty and original forms of diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and spinels used to embellish elegant hand-crafted designs.

Eager to know more about the creative process which drives the brand, I met with FORMS director Flora Wong. She joined the company in 2019, bringing with her almost two decades of experience with auction and luxury brands.

Katerina Perez: What was the driving force in the style evolution of FORMS in recent years? 

Flora Wong: A key element of the FORMS ethos is the constant drive to experiment with new materials, ideas, and settings, while refining and evolving traditional concepts and nurturing an environment for boundless creativity. By pushing the boundaries of design and integrating new technological innovations, FORMS continually develop new ways to express the art of jewellery design.

KP: The bold geometry, unexpected arrangements of gemstones and unusual cuts contribute to the unique nature of FORMS’ designs. How would you describe the FORMS aesthetic?

FW: The FORMS aesthetic, our very essence, reflects our creative process. At FORMS, we create one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces that appear simple but are technically complex and intricate. Our meticulous attention to detail ensures that each piece is beautiful from every angle. We work with rare and unique gemstones and metals, constantly pushing ourselves to explore innovative techniques, creating jewellery that is not only stunning but also exceptionally comfortable to wear—truly wearable art.

KP: A number of the design elements that you employ could be described as post-modern, even futuristic: gemstone and diamond inlay, tension settings and barely visible metal. What is it that inspires these choices?

FW: We’re not afraid to explore new possibilities, and our curiosity drives us to continuously improve and discover innovative techniques. FORMS has pioneered unique setting methods, and these new processes and skill sets are integral to our design choices. As a result, our creations often feature modern designs that resonate with the younger generation. They are captivated by our attention to detail and relentless pursuit of innovation, pushing us to challenge ourselves and deliver something truly unique.

KP: Please share your secret to creating truly remarkable jewellery?

FW: One of the key pillars of our brand’s mystique is our commitment to maintaining a deliberately limited production volume, allowing us to focus on unmatched quality. This dedication to perfection is evident in every piece we create. We extend this philosophy throughout every aspect of our business. Embracing the ‘hidden gem’ nature of FORMS, we prioritize the clients who have found us, giving them our undivided attention and care.

KP: What is the most complex piece you have created so far?

FW: Each piece we create is a complex challenge, as we are constantly evolving and pushing the boundaries of our craft. Failure is a part of our journey, and it’s through these experiences that we refine and enhance our techniques. Our commitment to innovation goes beyond new setting techniques; we also experiment with unconventional materials. For example, we recently crafted a pair of Royal White Baltic Amber Earrings. The rarity of the material presented its own set of challenges. Amber is soft as a material, with each piece featuring a unique pattern. Setting the yellow diamonds in such a delicate material required the utmost precision and care.

KP: Mostly, FORMS opt to combine colourless diamonds with one primary coloured, high saturation gemstone, what dictates this choice?

FW: While not a strict rule, we often create contrast by using colourless diamonds to accentuate a single bold-coloured gemstone or material. This approach is our way of honouring the novelty and rarity of these exceptional gems. When observed with patience and appreciation, you’ll often notice multiple tones within a single gemstone. For this reason, we believe that colour should be used thoughtfully.