Precious Provenance: Showcasing Madagascar’s Mineral Treasures with Morebelli

December 2, 2024

By Katerina Perez

7 min read

The island of Madagascar is known to produce a covetable array of coloured gemstones, but this has led to some instances of mineral ‘rushes’ in which miners and the local landscapes suffer. This is exactly why I was so pleased to discover Morebelli, a fully integrated mine-to-market jeweller with an emphasis on Malagasy gems that are responsibly and ethically sourced. Founders Aurelien Morette and Giuseppe Pocobelli have gone direct to the mines to find high-quality rough material that they can cut in-house and transform into fine jewellery. The results are colourful, classical and respectful. Let’s take a closer look…

Skilled gemmologists often make great fine jewellers because they really appreciate the nuanced qualities of the stones they are working with. There’s something about diving deep into the physical and chemical composition of minerals that makes you want to visit mining sites to see rough crystals extracted in real life, in real-time, and by skilled human hands. I think this is probably the driving force behind Morebelli, which was founded by gemmologists Giuseppe Pocobelli and Aurelien Morette back in 2012. 

Today, theirs is a unique jewellery house that “offers a true short circuit” or a streamlined pathway between the mines of Madagascar and the buyer. On its website, you can discover pieces crafted with multi-coloured pastel sapphires, aquamarine, rhodolite, chrysoberyl, emeralds, spessartite, tourmalines and heliodor, so it’s safe to say there’s plenty of choice! 

Katerina Perez wears a trio of rings with Malagasy coloured gemstones by Morebelli including (from left to right) a 1.68 carat emerald ring set with 196 diamonds, a ring set with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline and 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, and a 3.03 carat golden sapphire ring with diamonds

Katerina Perez wears a trio of rings with Malagasy coloured gemstones by Morebelli including (from left to right) a 1.68 carat emerald ring set with 196 diamonds, a ring set with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline and 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, and a 3.03 carat golden sapphire ring with diamonds

 Katerina Perez wears a Morebelli ring with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline from Ibity, Madagascar, surrounded by 14 pink sapphires of 1.10 carats from Ilakaka, Madagascar, alongside 40 white diamonds of 0.30 carats

Katerina Perez wears a Morebelli ring with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline from Ibity, Madagascar, surrounded by 14 pink sapphires of 1.10 carats from Ilakaka, Madagascar, alongside 40 white diamonds of 0.30 carats

 A ring by Morebelli set with a 1.68 carat emerald originating from Irondro, Madagascar, surrounded by 196 diamonds with a total weight of 0.65 carats

A ring by Morebelli set with a 1.68 carat emerald originating from Irondro, Madagascar, surrounded by 196 diamonds with a total weight of 0.65 carats

 A trio of rings with Malagasy coloured gemstones by Morebelli including (from top to bottom) a 1.68 carat emerald ring set with 196 diamonds, a ring set with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline and 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, and a 3.03 carat golden sapphire ring with diamonds

A trio of rings with Malagasy coloured gemstones by Morebelli including (from top to bottom) a 1.68 carat emerald ring set with 196 diamonds, a ring set with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline and 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, and a 3.03 carat golden sapphire ring with diamonds

Drawn to the Red Island

When I met Giuseppe and Aurelien at the Gem and Jewellery show in Hong Kong, they told me about their prior experience in the gem and luxury industries before creating their own business. What really sets them apart, at least in my opinion, is their absolute passion for Madagascar, which is sometimes nicknamed the ‘Great Red Island’. Giuseppe started following in his father’s footsteps on the island in 1996 after studying at the Gemological Institute of America, while Aurelien moved to Madagascar in 2004 after a lifetime of gemstone collecting. “I immersed myself with delight in the powdery reality of the trails of the red island and in the exploration of its deposits,” Giuseppe says. They each bring their own experiences to the table, like Giuseppe’s insights into purchasing rough stones and working with Morebelli’s in-house lapidarists. Aurelien learned from the greats, including a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) award winner, and went on to create the largest manufacturing workshop in Madagascar in 2005. Today, he is responsible for designing the fine jewels that Morebelli sells online and through its boutiques in Madagascar, Ivory Coast and Mauritius.

Morebelli earrings with two Paraiba tourmalines of 2.08 carats originating from Ikalamavony, Madagascar, surrounded by 80 diamonds with a total weight of 1.18 carats

Morebelli earrings with two Paraiba tourmalines of 2.08 carats originating from Ikalamavony, Madagascar, surrounded by 80 diamonds with a total weight of 1.18 carats

Gems with a Difference

It is not only Madagascar’s mineral variety that makes it a special locality. Morebelli sources aquamarine, tourmaline, sapphire and other gems from the island but also keeps a close eye out for its special treasures, especially sapphires with unusual colours and rare-colour change properties. “The country’s gemstones often possess unique internal structures and colour zoning, adding to their desirability,” Aurelien tells me. He adds: “Morebelli’s expertise lies in understanding the geological origins of these stones and how to showcase their natural beauty in refined, timeless settings.”

Katerina Perez wears a pair of earrings by Morebelli set with two rhodolites of 1.22 carats from Bekily, Madagascar, two spinels of 2.79 carats from Liolava, Madagascar, and diamonds

Katerina Perez wears a pair of earrings by Morebelli set with two rhodolites of 1.22 carats from Bekily, Madagascar, two spinels of 2.79 carats from Liolava, Madagascar, and diamonds

 A pair of earrings by Morebelli set with two rhodolites of 1.22 carats from Bekily, Madagascar and two spinels of 2.79 carats from Liolava, Madagascar, all surrounded by round brilliant-cut diamond accents

A pair of earrings by Morebelli set with two rhodolites of 1.22 carats from Bekily, Madagascar and two spinels of 2.79 carats from Liolava, Madagascar, all surrounded by round brilliant-cut diamond accents

 A closer look at the asymmetric colours featured in a pair of earrings by Morebelli, set with 1.22 carats of rhodolite and 2.79 carats of spinel, all sourced from Madagascar

A closer look at the asymmetric colours featured in a pair of earrings by Morebelli, set with 1.22 carats of rhodolite and 2.79 carats of spinel, all sourced from Madagascar

Each of our stones passes through my hands. They are observed, analysed and evaluated and believe me, some of them have given me serious headaches! – Giuseppe Pocobelli

However, in the 12 years since the business was founded, things have moved on. High-quality, large gemstones have become “more challenging to source due to increased regulations and a stronger emphasis on sustainable mining practices,” Giuseppe explains. Rather than fighting against this, the Morebelli team has leaned into traceability, ethical sourcing, environmental protection and corporate social responsibility. It has actively strengthened its partnerships with responsible mines and embraced new technologies to improve transparency.

A trio of rings with Malagasy coloured gemstones by Morebelli including (from left to right) a 1.68 carat emerald ring set with 196 diamonds, a ring set with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline and 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, and a 3.03 carat golden sapphire ring with diamonds

A trio of rings with Malagasy coloured gemstones by Morebelli including (from left to right) a 1.68 carat emerald ring set with 196 diamonds, a ring set with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline and 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, and a 3.03 carat golden sapphire ring with diamonds

The Morebelli Pillars

In my view, this is what makes Morebelli special: a desire to blend traditional fine jewellery-making techniques with modern ethical considerations and an integrated business model. To communicate its approach to collectors, Morebelli presents its philosophy of ‘three pillars’ – transparency, sustainability and social responsibility. These principles cover a range of important areas, like fair labour standards, ecosystem rehabilitation, suitable wages and recycled materials. Giuseppe says: “By cutting out multiple middlemen, we can maintain quality control from the mine to the showroom. This integration ensures that every gemstone meets strict ethical and aesthetic standards.” And now I know what you are wondering… what are those aesthetic standards? What distinguishes Morebelli jewels from other brands utilising Malagasy gems? Let me tell you!

Crafting a piece of Morebelli fine jewellery with gemstones originating from Madagascar

Crafting a piece of Morebelli fine jewellery with gemstones originating from Madagascar

 Morebelli specialises in creating fine jewellery set with coloured gemstones from the island of Madagascar

Morebelli specialises in creating fine jewellery set with coloured gemstones from the island of Madagascar

 Crafting Morebelli fine jewels at its workshops in Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar

Crafting Morebelli fine jewels at its workshops in Antananarivo, the capital of Madagascar

 Morebelli showcases the natural beauty and local expertise of Madagascar in its fine jewellery creations

Morebelli showcases the natural beauty and local expertise of Madagascar in its fine jewellery creations

 The process of faceting a coloured gemstone for use in a Morebelli jewel

The process of faceting a coloured gemstone for use in a Morebelli jewel

 Morebelli celebrates the abundance of Madagascar’s mineral landscape by creating its own fine jewellery collections in-house

Morebelli celebrates the abundance of Madagascar’s mineral landscape by creating its own fine jewellery collections in-house

Classical Interpretation

Morebelli jewellery has a sophisticated, timeless quality that really allows the beauty of each coloured gemstone to shine through. Its pieces often feature bold colour combinations, pairing vivid stones with diamonds and setting them in 18k white or rose gold. Aurelien describes this as “a minimalist yet luxurious approach,” which is characterised by “clean lines, elegant forms and an emphasis on colour and contrast”. Some of its most iconic pieces are statement rings and pendant necklaces, including a cluster-style ring with a 1.35-carat pink tourmaline, 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, and diamonds in 18k rose gold, and a subtly Art Deco pendant with a 1.21-carat emerald surrounded by diamonds.

Morebelli ring (left) with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline surrounded by 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, a ring (right) with a 1.68 carat emerald and 0.65 carats of diamonds, and a pendant with a 1.21 carat emerald centre stone, surrounded by 54 diamonds totalling 0.39 carats

Morebelli ring (left) with a 1.35 carat pink tourmaline surrounded by 1.10 carats of pink sapphires, a ring (right) with a 1.68 carat emerald and 0.65 carats of diamonds, and a pendant with a 1.21 carat emerald centre stone, surrounded by 54 diamonds totalling 0.39 carats

I especially appreciate the brand’s approach to colour, which is all about finding those special gems with a slightly unexpected and saturated palette. A great example of this is a ring with a 3.03-carat golden sapphire that’s an unbelievably rich honey gold shade and a pendant with a chromatic mix of green tourmalines, tsavorites, emeralds and Paraiba totalling more than four carats. However, one creation that stands out above all is the Bohème High Jewellery necklace, which was crafted to celebrate Morebelli’s 10th anniversary. The piece contains pave-set diamonds and a round-cut rainbow of 1,139 multi-coloured sapphires to highlight the breadth of hues to be found in Madagascar. A more accessible version of this sapphire spectrum can be found in the classic Morebelli tennis bracelet, set in 18k rose gold, with 9.51 carats of corundum hailing from Ilakaka.

Morebelli ring with a 3.03 carat golden sapphire from Ilakaka, Madagascar, flanked by 42 round diamonds of 0.42 carats

Morebelli ring with a 3.03 carat golden sapphire from Ilakaka, Madagascar, flanked by 42 round diamonds of 0.42 carats

 Katerina Perez wears a Morebelli pendant with two tourmalines of 2.49 carats, three tsavorites of 1.50 carats, plus emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines, all hailing from Madagascar

Katerina Perez wears a Morebelli pendant with two tourmalines of 2.49 carats, three tsavorites of 1.50 carats, plus emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines, all hailing from Madagascar

 Morebelli Bohème High Jewellery necklace, crafted to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary, with 1,139 round-cut multi-coloured sapphires set in yellow gold

Morebelli Bohème High Jewellery necklace, crafted to celebrate the brand’s 10th anniversary, with 1,139 round-cut multi-coloured sapphires set in yellow gold

 Morebelli tennis bracelet with 46 multi-coloured sapphires from Madagascar with a total weight of 9.51 carats, shown here alongside a pink tourmaline and pink sapphire ring

Morebelli tennis bracelet with 46 multi-coloured sapphires from Madagascar with a total weight of 9.51 carats, shown here alongside a pink tourmaline and pink sapphire ring

On the Horizon

Looking to the future, Morbelli is on a mission to expand its global presence. There’s something quite compelling about curating a jewellery collection in which each piece hails from a different mineral mining location, like Madagascar, Brazil, Tanzania, Myanmar, Australia and so on… surely, this is something all gemmology and jewellery lovers can aspire to?! Giuseppe and Aurelien are planning to open flagship boutiques in key cities across the globe, which is the perfect way to spread the story of ethically and responsibly sourced Malagasy gems worldwide. From what I have seen so far, I will be watching their journey closely from here on out.

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