Ones to Watch: New Dior Grand Soir Timepieces

March 18, 2024

By Livia Primo Lack

7 min read

The latest releases in Dior’s legendary Grand Soir series of exceptional timepieces have arrived in a riot of colours and textures sure to enhance any fine watch collection. Through movement, optical illusion and colour play, Dior has once again proven that small can be mighty. Let’s get to know these objects d’art in more detail…

The House of Dior has been creating breath-taking timepieces since 1975, when the first Dior timepiece, the Black Moon, was presented to the public. This straightforward yet elegant timepiece was made of simple stainless steel and was presented in three classic colourways: black, gold and silver. It quickly captivated fashion audiences and became a staple amongst the sophisticated elite. Today, Dior has become a true competitor in the field of Haute Horlogerie, famed for collections such as the small and dainty D de Dior, the angular Gem Dior series, the dancing Grand Bal and most famously, the Dior Grand Soir.

Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watches in coloured mother- of-pearl, enamel, pink and yellow sapphire, spessartite, Gallus Gallus feather and diamond

The story behind the Dior Grand Soir timepiece series unites the Maison’s refined and sophisticated expression of creativity and sense of colour with a classic and finely crafted watchmaking mechanism such as oscillating weights, bezels, calibres and intricate dials. First launched in 2012, with the mechanical automaton pieces launching only last year, these horological works of art are for those with a daring sense of style, refined craftsmanship, and appreciation for creativity. For this reason, most models are often limited editions due to the amount of handwork that goes into creating each miniature work of art. The two latest editions, the Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior and the Miroir d’Eau echo these same values whilst continuing to pay homage to the brand’s founder, Christian Dior, and his love of the natural world.

Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch in white gold, coloured mother-of-pearl, pink and yellow sapphire, Gallus Gallus feather and diamond

When the automaton is activated, a feathery dragonfly comes to life, gently sailing on the ripples of the mother-of-pearl waters

Making of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch dial

The case of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch features a pavé setting of diamonds and pink sapphires

Making of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch dial

Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior

“Once upon a time” is the open creative line that spurs viewers to undertake the creative journey that the Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior encapsulates. It was on the evening of April 18, 1946, that Monsieur Dior was walking along the cobbled streets of his beloved Paris when he came across a shooting star. Christian Dior believed that this star led him down the fortuitous path of creating his own Couture House and credited the encounter with much of his success and luck in life.

Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior watch in white gold, pink gold, hand painted enamel, printed pink mother of pearl and diamond

To honour this important milestone for Christian Dior and his eponymous brand, the Star of Monsieur Dior watch dial recreates a dreamlike scene that unfolds as if in a small theatre through varied acts of movement and creativity. The dial displays the sparkling gold leaf windows of the 30 Ave Montaigne headquarters, lit by a pink and purple sunset sky filled with twinkling diamond stars and hand-engraved mother-of-pearl clouds. Each star is drawn and connected via a celestial map that displays the positions of the Aquarius constellation, Monsieur Dior’s astrological sign, in the afternoon.

Close up of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior watch dial in white gold, pink gold, hand painted enamel, printed pink mother of pearl and diamond

Furthermore, by activating the automaton, the sky diorama reveals a shooting star, inviting the wearer to make a wish. Our journey through the stars continues beyond the dial with a diamond snow-set case in rose gold. Sweet, nostalgic and theatrical, this timepiece encapsulates the critical moment of Dior’s creation.

Making of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior watch in white gold, pink gold, hand painted enamel, printed pink mother of pearl and diamond

The Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior watch dial features an entirely hand painted enamel dial

Creating the 30 Avenue Montaigne storefront layer

Applying the hand-painted detail over the 30 Avenue Montaigne storefront

The Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior watch dial is created from layers of detail, which create depth and magic, and immerse us in a precious sunset stroll

Setting the diamond in the shooting star of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Etoile de Monsieur Dior watch

Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau

Like the Etoile de Monsieur Dior, the Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau is inspired by another important emblem in the Haute Couture Maison’s founder’s life. The Gardens at the Villa Les Rhumbs in Granville always held a special place in Christian Dior’s heart. He often spoke of the time he spent amongst its ponds and rose beds as a child, including the silhouette of a pergola he had designed and its reflections in the water. The Dior Grand Soir Mirroir d’Eau pays tribute to this garden that was a beautifully preserved Eden for the designer, capturing its charming ponds and waterlilies in six colourways, each painted to mirror the various colours of daylight at different hours.

Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch model in white gold, coloured mother-of-pearl, pink sapphire, Gallus Gallus feather and diamond

Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch model in white gold, coloured mother-of-pearl, multi-coloured sapphire, ruby, amethyst, Gallus Gallus feather and diamond

Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch model in white gold, coloured mother-of-pearl, multi-coloured sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, Gallus Gallus feather and diamond

Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch model in white gold, coloured mother-of-pearl, multi-coloured sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, Gallus Gallus feather and diamond

The rippling waters undulate with layered mother of pearl, conveying the soft movement of the body of water, set with waterlilies made of coloured gems in varying hues, including sapphires and diamonds, alongside a delicate diamond bee and golden dragonfly. When the automaton is activated, the dial comes to life, as one of the precious stone flowers sways and swirls in the breeze as if truly floating on the water’s surface, whilst the small Dior bee hovers and drinks in its nectar. On the other side of the dial, a Corolla flower with sparkling pistils drifts lazily in the water whilst a feathered dragonfly gently sails against its ripples. As if in a dream, this miniature natural world comes to life at the click of a button, inviting the wearer into their own precious and secret garden.

Gouache drawing of a Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch model

Close up of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch dial in white gold, coloured mother-of-pearl, multi-coloured sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, Gallus Gallus feather and diamond

Setting of a gemstone flower onto the dial surface of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch model

Each of the of the Dior Grand Soir Automate Miroir d’Eau watch models feature one of a kind gems set into unique floral patterns

As you can see, the artisans behind the two latest Dior Grand Soir high jewellery timepieces ensure the creative spirit and legacy of Christian Dior remain at the heart of every horological creation. We look forward to seeing what other motifs and emblems the House will bring forth in its next luxurious timepieces.

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