Refined Eye: Christie’s to Auction Fabulous Jewels By JAR

May 8, 2023

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

When an extraordinary sale is taking place, I want to know about it and I want to write about it. So I could not have missed the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva that will take place on May 17 and will include the largest collection of JAR jewels ever to come to auction.

This feast of 25 artistic gemstone creations has been amassed by a single collector over 15 years, making the story behind it just as fascinating as the pieces themselves. Let’s explore this momentous offering and hear from the anonymous collector who has been devoting themselves to the works of Joel Arthur Rosenthal…

JAR coloured sapphire and diamond ‘paisley’ earrings in blackened silver and 18k yellow gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR coloured sapphire and diamond ‘paisley’ earrings in blackened silver and 18k yellow gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

Titled “A Refined Eye – Fabulous Jewels by JAR”, this private collection is notably large and full of personality-filled pieces that are quintessential of the jeweller. In case you need a reminder, Joel Arthur Rosenthal was born in New York City in 1943 and later graduated from Harvard University before moving to Paris. There, he opened a needlepoint shop, where his experiments with unusual colours of yarn attracted the custom of designers for Hermès and Valentino. After working with Bulgari in New York, he returned to Paris, opening his own jewellery store with his partner, Pierre Jeannet, in 1977. Today, JAR produces around 70 pieces annually, making them highly sought after and enticingly exclusive since the jeweller only accepts a handful of clients a year.

JAR steel and diamond desk clock, designed as a sea urchin in blackened steel and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR steel and diamond desk clock, designed as a sea urchin in blackened steel and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 JAR steel and diamond desk clock, designed as a sea urchin in blackened steel and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR steel and diamond desk clock, designed as a sea urchin in blackened steel and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

In 2013, JAR was the first living ‘artist of gems’ to be honoured with a New York Metropolitan Museum of Art retrospective which I visited pretty much in the beginning of my writing career – I flew to New York, especially for that. What I saw in the dim light touched me deeply, but most importantly I will never forget the look on people’s faces when they looked at displays – you don’t have to be a jewellery connoisseur to understand that each jewel of this artist is a true masterpiece.

JAR earrings with round-shaped cabochon chrysoprase, round diamonds, rubies, tourmalines, amethysts and green garnets in18k yellow and white gold and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR earrings with round-shaped cabochon chrysoprase, round diamonds, rubies, tourmalines, amethysts and green garnets in18k yellow and white gold and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

So, when I first learned about this auction, I immediately wanted to put myself in the shoes of the collector and find out what inspired their passion for JAR. According to Christie’s, the individual in question encountered the art of JAR 20 years ago during an important exhibition – The Jewels of JAR, Paris – that was held at Somerset House, London, in 2002. Five years later, they acquired their debut JAR jewel.

JAR diamond ring in 18k yellow and white gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR diamond ring in 18k yellow and white gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 Side view of a JAR diamond ring in 18k yellow and white gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

Side view of a JAR diamond ring in 18k yellow and white gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 This JAR diamond ring, which is due to be sold by Christie's, is dated to 1978

This JAR diamond ring, which is due to be sold by Christie's, is dated to 1978

 A closer look at the details of a JAR diamond ring from the 1970s set in 18k yellow and white gold

A closer look at the details of a JAR diamond ring from the 1970s set in 18k yellow and white gold

Amazingly, I was offered the opportunity to speak privately with the collector – who has chosen to remain anonymous – and ask my questions. We discussed possible inspirations for JAR, including tapestries (note his background in needlepoint), the early works of French designer Jean Schlumberger, and even the Russian Crown Jewels.

JAR earrings with moss agate acorns in textured 18k yellow gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR earrings with moss agate acorns in textured 18k yellow gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

They told me: I always purchase what I love and what I enjoy. There are certain things JAR does best, and I think flowers are one of them. In the collection, there are two pairs of fan earrings – one is humungous! They turn any head when you see them.

JAR ‘Pansy’ earrings with round sapphires, amethysts, emeralds and diamonds, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR ‘Pansy’ earrings with round sapphires, amethysts, emeralds and diamonds, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

Let’s look at some JAR artworks in the Christie’s sale, which span 40 years of making. First, there are a pair of instantly recognisable JAR ‘Ivy Leaves’ earrings, set with diamonds (estimate CHF300,000-500,000), which were part of the Somerset House exhibition that the collector attended in London between 2002 and 2003.

JAR ‘Ivy’ earrings with round diamonds, 18k yellow and rose gold and blackened silver, 1991, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR ‘Ivy’ earrings with round diamonds, 18k yellow and rose gold and blackened silver, 1991, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

You will also find a pair of nephrite jade ‘Geranium’ earrings (estimate CHF20,000-30,000) and a pair of multi-coloured gemstone ‘Pansy’ earrings (CHF150,000-250,000). Elsewhere, there are a pair of set ‘Fan’ earrings with sapphires, emeralds and diamonds (CHF400,000-600,000), a pair of coloured sapphire, fancy colour diamond and white diamond earrings (CHF2500,000-350,000), and a wonderful ‘Bonnet’ ring with amethyst, sapphire and ruby (CHF70,000-100.000). And let’s not forget the sale title, “Refined Eye,” which is inspired by an ‘Eye’ bangle with sapphires, spinels and diamonds destined to find a new home in just a few weeks’ time.

JAR nephrite 'Geranium' earrings with round diamonds in 18k yellow gold and blackened silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR nephrite 'Geranium' earrings with round diamonds in 18k yellow gold and blackened silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 JAR multi-gemstone ‘Pansy’ earrings with round sapphires of various hues, amethysts, emeralds and diamonds, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR multi-gemstone ‘Pansy’ earrings with round sapphires of various hues, amethysts, emeralds and diamonds, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 JAR sapphire, emerald and diamond 'Fan' earrings in blackened silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR sapphire, emerald and diamond 'Fan' earrings in blackened silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 JAR coloured sapphire and diamond ‘paisley’ earrings in blackened silver and 18k yellow gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR coloured sapphire and diamond ‘paisley’ earrings in blackened silver and 18k yellow gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 JAR amethyst, sapphire and ruby 'Bonnet' ring with cushion-shaped amethyst, round sapphires, rubies and diamonds in 18k gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR amethyst, sapphire and ruby 'Bonnet' ring with cushion-shaped amethyst, round sapphires, rubies and diamonds in 18k gold, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

 JAR sapphire, spinel and diamond ‘Eye’ bangle with round and old-cut sapphires, spinels and round diamonds in silver and 18k yellow gold, 2011, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR sapphire, spinel and diamond ‘Eye’ bangle with round and old-cut sapphires, spinels and round diamonds in silver and 18k yellow gold, 2011, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

One of the most important pieces to flag in the Christie’s collection is the camellia brooch – a JAR signature and the epitome of the designer’s preference for sculptural jewels. This piece is crafted with diamonds, tourmalines and agates, blending precious and more accessible materials in typical JAR fashion. They have a pre-sale estimate of CHF300,000- 400,000.

JAR ‘Camelia’ brooches with pink tourmaline and white agate petals, and round diamonds in platinum and 18k white gold, 1985, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR ‘Camelia’ brooches with pink tourmaline and white agate petals, and round diamonds in platinum and 18k white gold, 1985, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

It is also worth noting that Christie’s has a long history with JAR. The auction house sold the Ellen Barkin JAR collection in October 2006 and the Lily Safra Jewels for Hope Collection in 2012. More recently, 12 JAR creations from the collection of Ann Getty were sold, including a fantastical selection of brooches.

JAR earrings with oval-shaped sphenes, coloured zircon and diamond earrings in gold and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

JAR earrings with oval-shaped sphenes, coloured zircon and diamond earrings in gold and silver, due to be sold at the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on 17 May 2023

It is safe to say that Christie’s Geneva will be on the radar of serious JAR collectors over the next few weeks. I can’t wait to discover the results.

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