Time to Shine: New Jewellery Watches for Spring/Summer 2023
Over the last few years high jewellery houses have started to veer away from the classically elegant, understated diamond wristwatches and shifted towards more colourful, design-led timepieces created from diverse materials. Let’s follow the rainbow of the latest spring/summer 2023 jewellery watch releases from the industry’s leading brands.
The simple white diamond cocktail watch is certainly not a thing of the past, but it has been pushed aside by the increased demand for more flamboyant and elaborate timepieces. Secret watches no longer just have a dial that is hidden under a lid, this year Piaget introduces a watch with a miniature dial on the bottom part of the wrist while the top is decorates with a gorgeous emerald. Dior continue releasing their iconic Grand Bal watches with the moving elements under the sapphire glass, while Chopard play with gemstone combinations embellishing their cocktail designs to add volume and depth to their pieces. Additionally, the desire to express ourselves through our adornments as well as the Loud Luxury fashion movement dictate designing timepieces that scream for attention. Here you will see a number of them if you continue reading…
Model wearing Chopard Red Carpet High Jewellery watch in gold, rubies and diamonds
Le Jardin de Chaumet High Jewellery Watches
Chaumet’s latest high jewellery collection is a celebration of the brand’s most looked source of inspiration – nature. The floral theme is divided into chapters that take viewers on a journey through wild fields, manicured gardens, and lush forests. Each of these natural landscapes contains a high jewellery watch bursting with colour captivating the attention of any onlooker.
The Feuille de Vigne high jewellery watch is set with a mosaic of faceted dark red rubies as well as black and grey spinels to recreate the glowing deep hues that can be found in vineyards. 300 stones were used to create this realistic colour pattern. Similarly, the Gui high jewellery watch is set with a round cabochon Colombian emerald, surrounded by swirls of pave diamonds to evoke the due-like sparkle of mistletoe. Much like the secrets hidden throughout nature, the emerald can be pushed aside to reveal a hidden diamond pave dial. The Fleur de Pensée high jewellery watch’s façade of diamonds and light blue sapphires also reveals a secret dial, set with white mother of pearl containing blue undertones, further accentuating the parade of blue sapphires that are dotted throughout the piece.
Chopard Red Carpet High 2023 High Jewellery Watches
Chopard’s latest series of high jewellery watches from the 2023 Red Carpet collection brings hues, shades and varying tints to the forefront of their designs through coloured cardinal gemstones. Each of the four timepieces feature large, coloured stones that reflect Caroline Scheufele’s exotic travels. Two of these jewelled numbers focus on the colour blue, which is inspired by the artistic director and co-president’s aquatic destinations. Dark ocean blue hues recreated in pear-shaped sapphires accentuated with brilliant-cut diamonds and blue mother of pearl. Scheufele takes us next to lush green landscapes in a watch set with 21.65 carats of octagon-cut emeralds set against a diamond pave. Finally, the red desserts and sands of far-off lands come to the forefront of our imagination through a timepiece that is set with over 8 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant rubies in ethical 18-karat rose gold. Each of these vibrant designs makes us dream of adventure.
Dior Grand Bal Milly La Nuit and Tie & Dye watches
The Maison of Dior has recently launched two of their Grand Bal designs using arresting gemstones and scintillating metals. The Grand Bal Milly La Nuit is a tribute to Monsieur Dior’s love of gardens. Created in a limited edition of 20 pieces, this timepiece is an innovative take on a stroll through the luxuriant garden at the Moulin de Milly, the country house of the Dior family. A hard stone malachite dial evokes the rich foliage of this garden, with vines of rose gold set with diamonds, emeralds and rubies en relief, like a three-dimensional plant growing inside the sapphire glass case. The rose gold foliage rotates freely around the dial and is designed to swirl like a ball gown thanks to the “Dior Inversé” calibre and oscillating weight placed on the front of the dial.
The Dior Grand Bal Tie & Dye novelty is inspired by the artisanal textile dyeing technique that was used by Monsieur Dior to bring his famous ballgowns to life. Much like one of his gowns, this new collection of one-off timepieces pays homage to Monsieur Dior’s love of colour. It is expressed through diamonds, sapphires and tsavorites that recreate his opulent and architectural party dresses, with the dramatic gem patterns spinning around the dial. In fashion designer’s own words: “The ball gown makes you dream and must make you a dream woman”.
The Dior Grand Bal Tie & Dye comes in three colourways - blue sapphire, pink sapphire and green tsavorite
Gucci Allegoria High Jewellery Watches
Gucci’s latest high jewellery collection Allegoria made waves through the industry as it represented a sudden change in design for the Maison. The collection focuses on the emotions associated with each passing season, from the energetic renewal of spring to the frozen winter frost. The two Gucci Play high jewellery watches in this collection focus on this striking contrast. Both have floral-shaped diamond dials accentuated with the recognisable Gucci bow; however, one is set with light green-blue tourmaline and soft yellow beryl, whilst the other features passionate pink spinel and fiery orange garnet. These two yellow and white gold watches tell the tale of the ever-changing seasons around us, whether it be in life or love.
Gucci Allegoria High Jewellery watches in gold, white gold, multicoloured gemstones and diamonds
Metaphoria by Piaget
The timepieces displayed in Piaget’s Metaphoria high jewellery collection honour the three founding pillars of the Maison’s design DNA: experimentation, innovation, and joy. All these elements are brought to life through a masterful play of textures and colours. The Alata cuff watch boasts petal-like structure embellished with mother-of-pearl marquetry and interspersed with engraved white and yellow gold to create a feather-like pattern. The light exuded from the gold bounces off the mother-of-pearl carvings, drawing attention to what sems to be hundreds of petals embellishing the top and the bottom of the watch.
Elsewhere, The Foliatura watch uses a magnificent cushion-cut Colombian emerald weighing 6.59 carats as its focal point. Its striking green palette is further heightened through chrysoprase and carved white gold. This allows the wearer to see a shade of green no matter where they look.
And lastly, the Metiers d’Art Alitura and Undulata timepieces finish the selection with an unusual new twist. The mosaic and iridescent dials of both watches are made to mimic precious damask fabric through ornamental stones as well as marquetry of straw, wood, leather, parchment and elytra.
Tiffany & Co. HardWear and Eternity Cushion Watches
One could say that Tiffany & Co.’s popularity has increased exponentially over the last few weeks thanks to the brand’s collaboration with artist Beyonce during her Renaissance world tour. Each of Queen B’s looks has been subtly and at times boldly, accentuated by a series of Tiffany & Co. fine and high jewellery pieces. What we have not yet seen sported by the songstress is one of the brand’s latest jewellery watches. The HardWear and Eternity Cushion collections are easy-to-wear luxury timepieces that contain clusters of diamonds as well as forward-thinking designs.
The new Tiffany HardWear watch collection draws inspiration from the gauge links of this iconic Maison. Each watch is comprised of ten links and is available in black lacquer, mother of pearl or Tiffany Blue. The brand’s Eternity watch takes the cushion dial shape of the HardWear watch and combines it with inspiration from a series of vintage Tiffany & Co. advertisements from the 1960s and ’70s. Each of the watches comes in a similar colour path to the HardWear collection, however, all dials feature a different diamond cut, including the patented Tiffany True diamonds cut to mark every hour.
The brands above have used a variety of gemstones and design elements to create something jaw-dropping and truly theirs. Now, we cannot wait to see what other precious watch designs they are going to bring to the table in the nearest future!
WORDS
Livia Primo Lack Having worked in the luxury goods industry in the UK, US, Switzerland, Spain, France and Italy, Watches & Jewellery journalist and content creator Livia Primo Lack has covered all matters when it comes to luxury jewels and timepieces. Through her strong background in the editorial world, writing for Tatler Magazine, Vanity Fair London, Vogue India, Net-a-Porter, the Natural Diamond council, as well as many other esteemed publications, Livia has developed a keen eye for up-and-coming new designers as well as for exciting innovative work by iconic brands. Having joined the KaterinaPerez.com team, Livia loves the personal and familiar style of the Katerina Perez platform, spreading the love of jewellery to all who wish to learn more about it.
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