Haute Couture 2025: The Unconventional Lines of the Vhernier Ardis High Jewellery Collection 

Vhernier is a brand with a definitive artistic signature, so much so that we have written extensively about its iconic Calla collection and its many iterations. Now, though, we are gifted with an entirely new high jewellery collection, Ardis, that transforms the collar necklace into something futuristic, expressive, and temptingly collectable. There are eight variations to choose from, each with a matching pair of earrings, ring and bracelet, and all featuring the same unconventional lines and voluminous proportions. Let's take a closer look at the pieces that launched at Paris Haute Couture week, including the sculptural necklaces we simply couldn't leave without photographing. 

We've always associated the Milanese jewellery brand Vhernier with quiet and understated luxury. Artists such as Constantin Brâncuși, Jean Arp, and Henry Moore inform the bold, essential and innovative spirit of its sculptural creations. So, it's no surprise that Vhernier chose Atelier Brancusi in Paris, an exact reconstruction of the artist's studio that is rich in symbolic meaning for the Maison, as the setting for the launch of its new high jewellery collection.

The designs of the Maison often repeat assembled parts in smooth gold, matte titanium or covered in pavé diamonds. Whereas the recognisable Calla motif is smooth and conical, the new Ardis High Jewellery collection presents a more boxy motif with graduating squares of precious metal, adorned with colourless diamonds, black diamonds and sapphires. The collection is a perfect homage to Vhernier's elegant and understated aesthetic, as well as its ability to comfortably skim the curves of the body in ergonomic fashion. 

"Following more than a year of dedicated study into form, and over two years of meticulous material research, Ardis marks a new chapter in Vhernier's history: the perfect embrace of precious and unconventional metals, flowing together as if forged from a single, continuous element. A celebration of creativity, craftsmanship and innovation."

Each of the Ardis necklaces are similar, but also characterful in their own ways. There are some unifying factors, such as the overall shape and the asymmetric lines that encircle each piece to enhance the feeling of movement. However, differences emerge in the use of materials, like titanium, rose gold, and aluminium. The first suite, Ardis Forma Di Luce, features a necklace, bracelet, ring and ear clips (this is consistent across all eight) with colourless diamonds and 18k rose gold. Imagine these materials covering different faces of a three-dimensional cube as they wrap around the neck. 

Next, there's the Ardis Profilo Di Luna suite with an all-white ensemble of diamonds, aluminium and gold. Vhernier says this version "shines like the moon at its peak with diamonds dispersing like stardust across the night sky". The necklace alone contains 2,695 diamonds with a total weight of 19.35 carats, while the matching bracelet is set with 1,387 diamonds weighing 10.55 carats. It's amazing how the choice of finish can make a necklace look totally different, too, like the satin matte white gold in the Ardis Profilo Del Vento set. These two chapters in the Ardis story are like twins with different personalities… one has a shine while the other is more softly luminescent. On that note, if these are the twin daughters, then the Ardis Forma Assoluta is the matriarch of the family, fully paved in white diamonds in white gold. The necklace contains 5,459 diamonds weighing 42.50 carats, the bracelet adds a further 19.95 carats, and there are approximately 20 more carats in the ear clips and ring. No wonder Vhernier describes this suite as "like stars in the galaxy"!

The four remaining chapters are bolder, with starker contrasts or more complex gemstone setting in action. Personally, I love the blend of white gold, black titanium and diamonds in the Ardis Forma D'Eclisse set, which perfectly articulates the 'light and shadow' story behind the collection. Titanium also has the benefit of being lightweight, enhancing the wearability of this new creation even more. At the other end of the spectrum is the Ardis Profilo Del Sole quartet with a gradient of sensational white and yellow diamonds that appear to rise like the sun around the neck, wrist and across the ears. The necklace contains 7.50 carats of white diamonds and 12.80 carats of yellow diamonds, equating to more than 2,700 individual diamonds that had to be individually set. 

Finally, there are two suites encrusted in either deep blue sapphires or black diamonds, both of which have real impact when worn. The former, Ardis Profilo Di Stelle, is inspired by the swirl of twinkling stars in the inky depths of the Milky Way, incorporating more than 10,000 individual sapphires and diamonds set in 18k white gold. The Ardis Forma Infinita suite achieves a similarly intense depth of colour with matte black titanium and black diamonds, including 22.15 carats in the necklace and 12.70 carats in the bracelet. 

The Ardis High Jewellery collection is quintessentially Vhernier in that it blends masterful Milanese craftsmanship with unconventional materials, voluminous forms, ergonomic construction, and sculptural shapes. The pieces simply shouldn't be as supple as they are, and yet Vhernier has somehow managed to make rigid materials sinuous and slinky. Bravo to the Italian brand for achieving such a feat and wowing us all at Paris Haute Couture Week.