Eye for Design: The Movement Infused Jewels of Zeemou Zeng

February 6, 2024

By Katerina Perez

7 min read

If you’re the type who finds comfort in the playful mobility of jewellery – the tactility of its finish and the twist and turns of coloured gems on your finger and around your neck – then you’ll find a kindred spirit in Zeemou Zeng, the China-born, UK trained jeweller with a knack for kinetics. I spoke to Zeemou to learn more about the values underpinning his designs and discover the sources of his boundless inspiration.

Fine jewellery is a serious business, but that doesn’t mean it has to take itself too seriously. In my experience, there is an art to injecting jewellery with playfulness without diminishing its desirability or the luxuriousness of its materials or finishing. Of all the jewellers whom I have met in recent years striving to achieve this delicate balance, one of the top performers is Zeemou Zeng, who founded his eponymous brand in 2017. Zeemou specialises in contemporary fine jewellery with a special characteristic: pieces contain moving gemstone elements that add a lovely, tactile element of surprise. 

Jewellery designer Zeemou Zeng

Jewellery designer Zeemou Zeng

Each of my fine jewellery pieces is inspired by the values of personal freedom and independence. My signature is movement, which I use to ‘free gemstones’ in my designs and lend a joyful, playable facet to my pieces. I mix the traditional with the modern to create directional pieces that have a chic androgynous aesthetic. My designs are gender fluid, appealing to both men and women; I hope that they will stand the test of time. – Zeemou Zeng

A selection of fine jewellery pieces from The Eye collection by Zeemou Zeng

A selection of fine jewellery pieces from The Eye collection by Zeemou Zeng

 Zeemou Zeng Mini Eye unisex pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony

Zeemou Zeng Mini Eye unisex pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony

 Zeemou Zeng Mini Eye unisex hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony

Zeemou Zeng Mini Eye unisex hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony

 Zeemou Zeng Eye charms in 18k yellow gold with Akoya pearl, black onyx, garnet, amethyst and chalcedony, studded with rubies, emeralds and yellow diamonds

Zeemou Zeng Eye charms in 18k yellow gold with Akoya pearl, black onyx, garnet, amethyst and chalcedony, studded with rubies, emeralds and yellow diamonds

 Zeemou Zeng Eye diamond cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony and a round brilliant-cut diamond centre

Zeemou Zeng Eye diamond cocktail ring in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony and a round brilliant-cut diamond centre

That juxtaposition of joyful playfulness, which we associate with childhood, and the fierce independence that we see in confident adults is what draws me to Zeemou’s jewels. Perhaps this emerges from his background in architecture, which is all about bending the rules of geometry and physics to create engaging spaces. However, if you ask Zeemou, he attributes his signature style to his upbringing in China, and his studies across the world at University of the Arts London. He says: “My inspiration comes from my personal experiences. I lived away from my parents from a very early age, which made me independent, self-reliant, and free-spirited. Deep-rooted in my heart is a natural curiosity to explore the world and seek out adventure.”

Designing the Dangle earrings from The Impressionists collection by Zeemou Zeng

Designing the Dangle earrings from The Impressionists collection by Zeemou Zeng

This curiosity extends to materials such as crystal (more on that later), ceramics and porcelain, as well as the mechanics of movement and unusual setting styles. As for his other inspiration, he cites “travelling, culture and contemporary art”. He adds: “I trained as an interior and architecture designer. I love architecture; I draw on these experiences and impressions, often in unexpected ways. I always strive to bring ‘newness’ to my jewellery designs.”

Zeemou Zeng Heart collection ear studs in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and mother of pearl

Zeemou Zeng Heart collection ear studs in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and mother of pearl

 Zeemou Zeng Heart unisex pendant necklace in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and 18k yellow gold details

Zeemou Zeng Heart unisex pendant necklace in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and 18k yellow gold details

 Zeemou Zeng Heart collection unisex diamond ring in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds

Zeemou Zeng Heart collection unisex diamond ring in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds

I’m definitely not the only one watching Zeemou’s career unfold. He was named a ‘Bright New Gem’ at International Jewellery London in 2018 and secured the Gold Award in the Fine Jewellery Boodles Award and Production Jewellery categories at the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards (also known as the ‘UK Jewellery Oscars’) in 2019 and 2020, respectively. Plus, he was nominated for Young Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards in 2019 and won in the same category in 2020… not bad for someone who only started their brand a handful of years ago!

Zeemou Zeng Mini Eye unisex pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony

Zeemou Zeng Mini Eye unisex pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with green chalcedony

The story started with the debut Melody collection, which incorporates a unique movement mechanism to allow pearls and gemstone spheres to slide and create a new look each time a piece is worn. This kind of non-typical solution to gemstone setting really demonstrates what’s possible when you think outside the box. It’s also indicative of Zeemou’s gemstone preferences: “I prefer cabochon, which is very soft and tactile. I feel safety, comfort and the power of healing when I touch them. That’s why you can see a lot of beads and cabochon gemstones in my jewellery creations.”

Zeemou Zeng Melody pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with Akoya pearls

Zeemou Zeng Melody pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with Akoya pearls

 Zeemou Zeng Melody pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with sliding Akoya pearls

Zeemou Zeng Melody pendant necklace in 18k yellow gold with sliding Akoya pearls

Pieces in the Melody collection are described as “playable” because they create a different chime depending upon the length of the tube used. I especially like the design of the collection, which is reminiscent of Art Deco skyscrapers, and the way in which the tube motif translates across earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings and cufflinks. My favourites are the Melody cocktail rings, notably in combinations of white gold and deep green chalcedony and rose gold with amethysts. 

Zeemou Zeng Melody diamond cocktail ring in 18k rose gold with pavé diamonds and amethyst

Zeemou Zeng Melody diamond cocktail ring in 18k rose gold with pavé diamonds and amethyst

 Zeemou Zeng Melody diamond cocktail ring in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and green chalcedony

Zeemou Zeng Melody diamond cocktail ring in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and green chalcedony

 Zeemou Zeng Melody diamond cocktail ring in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and Fuli Gemstones Peridot

Zeemou Zeng Melody diamond cocktail ring in 18k white gold with pavé diamonds and Fuli Gemstones Peridot

The Eye collection is perhaps the most quirky, complete with a roving gemstone eye, studded with a bezel-set gemstone pupil, surrounded by an eye-shaped cage of 18k gold. The gemstone eyeball, whether chalcedony, pearl, amethysts, tiger’s eye or kyanite, is free to move around inside its shell, almost as if it is following the movement of its wearer! And, because the entire spherical stone can rotate, each side is set with a different gemstone accent – a ruby, diamond or emerald – to create a magical effect. This collection has the same characteristic flair as Melody but with a kind of surrealist, Salvador Dali-inspired edge that’s expressive and conversation-starting. Speaking of famous painters, this is a good opportunity to mention The Impressionists collection. This newer offering with moving multi-coloured gemstone beads captures the colours in works by Claude Monet, Pierre Auguste-Renoir, and Édouard Manet, among others. The Impressionists Bangle with an unbroken hoop of moving gold beads is the perfect choice for anyone who wishes there was a stylish (and luxurious) fidget spinner on the market!

Zeemou Zeng Impressionists unisex bangle in 18k yellow gold with moving gold beads

Zeemou Zeng Impressionists unisex bangle in 18k yellow gold with moving gold beads

Of course, I can’t forget the Heart collection. Here, the movement emerges in the form of a gold, mother of pearl or diamond-set teardrop, which slides to reveal a pavé diamond panel. Together, these elements form the shape of a heart, with a mechanism that is not dissimilar to the pivot of a jeweller’s loupe. I especially like the Beating Heart brooch, which “reinvents the classic symbol of love into an exciting contemporary piece,” Zeemou tells me. He adds: “The Beating Heart brooch incorporates a unique movement mechanism. Once we give one bead a push, it will drive all the gemstone beads and circulate them within the heart-shaped gold setting, like rainbow blood flowing within the heart.” There are 27 beads within the heart-shaped golden tubing, including carnelian, amethyst, and blue, green and yellow chalcedony, which can be commissioned in the client’s choice of yellow, white or rose gold. 

Zeemou Zeng Beating Heart brooch in 18k yellow gold with 27 rainbow coloured gemstone beads

Zeemou Zeng Beating Heart brooch in 18k yellow gold with 27 rainbow coloured gemstone beads

Finally, a nod to Zeemou Zeng’s other passion: crystalware. His Gemstone Cut collection includes crystal glasses with facet patterns modelled after actual diamond cutting techniques. According to Zeemou, he has “ambitions to grow and become a global lifestyle brand, epitomising all that is innovative, chic and stylish,” which sounds like an exciting trajectory. As we are in the midst of Chinese New Year celebrations, it is fitting to turn the spotlight on a promising Chinese-born designer who has already achieved so much in a short space of time. Zeemou also promises me that he’ll launch a new signature design in 2024 rather than a full collection. I can only imagine what moving elements and unique setting styles will be on display.

Gorgeous Gifts: Female Jewellers on Making Valentine’s Day Special

continue reading

Instant Charm: Celebrating New Creations with Karina Choudhrie Jewels

Let's take a closer look at the latest pieces that have emerged from Karina's incredible imagination…

by Katerina Perez

Key Facts About Gold: An Ancient Symbol of Power and Luxury

In an age where digital currencies rise and fall, gold remains a universal symbol of stability, beauty, and lasting worth. It is worn on the skin, locked in vaults, and passed down through generations as a living legacy.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Little Legends: The History and Power of Pinky Rings

Pinky rings have long carried cultural weight - from Ancient Mesopotamian seals to Egyptian signets and Japanese kamon heirlooms. Today, the style is experiencing a resurgence, thanks to contemporary designers and a growing list of high-profile wearers, including Meghan Markle, Bruno Mars, Rihanna, Victoria Beckham, Bella Hadid and Emily Ratajkowski

by Joshua Hendren

Forever in Bloom: The Timeless Charm of Flowers in Jewellery

Flowers may fade in a vase, but flowers in jewellery—they bloom eternally

by Hirshi Sujanti

Double Vision: The Art and Allure of Reversible Jewellery

With versatility driving today’s jewellery trends, reversible designs are enjoying a quiet resurgence. From transformable lockets to rotating rings and earrings that change with a flip, these reversible jewellery creations reflect a growing desire for multi-dimensional design.

by Joshua Hendren

Coloured Diamonds: Why They’re Rare, Valuable and Incredibly Collectible

In the world of diamonds, white may be the standard, but colour is where the magic really happens. From blush pinks and oceanic blues to canary yellows and rare violets, coloured diamonds are nature's most extravagant anomaly

by Claire Roberts

Jewellery Manifesto: Tracing Three Pivotal Decades with Pomellato Collezione 1967

With Collezione 1967, Pomellato is presenting its ‘Jewellery Manifesto’ through 75 pieces, each inspired by one of three revolutionary decades in its creative history: the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s. Let’s take a closer look at the Maison’s artistic signatures, reinvented for a new generation of high jewellery lovers… 

by Sarah Jordan

Pink City Style: The Best-Selling Reversible Jewels of Gyan Jaipur

I would like to tell you more about the brand, its origin story, design inspirations and its popular Jaipur and Yami collections

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Futures: Le Vian Unveils its 2026 Jewellery Trends in Las Vegas

Here's a rundown of what was included this year…

by Sarah Jordan

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.