It has been said that Duke Fulco di Verdura (1898–1978) was the most original and protean designer of the Twentieth Century. Born into Sicilian aristocracy, his designs were inspired by classical patterns and natural forms, brightened with intense colours and infused with a sophisticated wit.

Fulco’s early collaboration with Coco Chanel shattered the status quo in jewellery design in the early 1930s when, for the first time in centuries, gemstones were pressed into yellow gold in splendid contradiction to one another. Precious emeralds, rubies and sapphires were electrified into new life beside the vivid half-hues of amethyst, peridot and tourmaline. One of the most iconic examples of Twentieth Century design emerged from this exploration: Coco Chanel’s original Maltese Cross cuffs.

Coming to America in 1934, the young duke’s intimate and highly personalised designs for Golden-age Hollywood personalities and sophisticated New York society immediately set him apart. He became an “American jeweller” on September 1, 1939 when his friends Cole Porter and Vincent Astor financed his debut on Fifth Avenue, the day the war broke out in Europe.

The list of Verdura’s historical clients reads like a Who’s Who of Hollywood giants and great collectors: Orson Wells, the Baroness de Rothschild, Vivienne Leigh, the Duchess of Windsor… even Andy Warhol.