Gothic and Gilded: The Rise of Black Gold Jewels

July 7, 2023

By Livia Primo Lack

10 min read

When you think of the classic hues of gold jewellery, the holy trinity of yellow, white and rose (often called pink) come to mind. But more and more, we are seeing a rise in the presence of black gold on the fine jewellery scene. Let’s take a look at some of our favourite examples…

Black gold is becoming an increasingly popular shade for this metal in fine jewellery. Many brands have been producing black gold jewels for years. Independent designers such as Shaun Leane, Patcharavipa and Venyx have included black gold in their collections since the brands’ inceptions. However, in the last few years, the presence of black gold has become increasingly popular in fine jewellery, even making its way into the design roster of high jewellery brands such as REZA, Yeprem, Gismondi 1754 and Simone Jewels.

Model wearing Venyx Rainbow Star ring in gold, black rhodium, multicolour sapphires, tsavorite garnet and amethyst

Simone Jewels Tattoo Beautiful Life earrings in black gold, tanzanite and diamond

Shaun Leane Serpent's Trace Wide bracelet in sterling silver black rhodium

Patcharavipa ring in black gold and pink tourmaline

REZA Titan bracelet in rhodium-plated gold, diamond and emerald

First and foremost, what is black gold? Black gold is a man-made material that combines yellow gold with two or more alloys. These are referred to as “black gold alloys”. Black gold can also be made with surface-altering methods, in which the gold is coated in materials such as black rhodium. However, gold is not the only substance used to create black metal. Tungsten, silver, stainless steel, ceramic, titanium, and black carbon fibre are also widely used. The latter two are particularly popular in high jewellery, as their lightness and durability are advantageous in pieces with larger gemstones.

Stone Fine Jewelry Black Diamond Signet ring in black rhodium and black diamond

Why has black gold become so popular? The shift towards the appearance of effortlessness in ready-to-wear and couture fashion may have something to do with it; black gold adds an easy yet edgy flair to any outfit! No matter the size, gemstones become more eye-catching when set in this material. In addition, the black colour of the metal acts very much in a supporting role, not causing any unwanted tonal contrasts with your outfit. As the Italian fashion designer Riccardo Tisci said: “Black is always elegant. It is the most complete color in the whole world, made of all the colors in the palette.”

Aisha Baker Le Masque ring in blackened white gold and black diamond

Model wearing a Repossi limited edition earring in blackened gold and diamond

Lily Gabriella Diamond Hex Studs in blackened white gold and diamond

Model wearing Eva Fehren rings in blackened white gold and diamond

A always, we want to save you time on research and made a selection of pieces for you below if you want to add a black gold jewel to your personal collection. We have included a mix of subtle everyday wear and larger cocktail designs for those extra-special occasions. Take a look!

La Tache Bobo

La Tache Bobo

Melissa Kaye

Melissa Kaye

Katherine Jetter

Katherine Jetter

Almasika

Almasika

Stone Fine Jewelry

Stone Fine Jewelry

Le Vian

Le Vian

Sorellina

Sorellina

Karma El Khalil

Karma El Khalil

Repossi

Repossi

Caratell

Caratell

Yeprem

Yeprem

Jade Ruzzo

Jade Ruzzo

Vhernier

Vhernier

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co.

Nadine Aysoy

Nadine Aysoy

Aisha Baker

Aisha Baker

Sybarite Jewelery

Sybarite Jewelery

Patcharavipa

Patcharavipa

Suzanne Kalan

Suzanne Kalan

Lily Gabriella

Lily Gabriella

Fernando Jorge

Fernando Jorge

Serpentine Jewels

Serpentine Jewels

Reza

Reza

De Beers

De Beers

Simone Jewels

Simone Jewels

Venyx

Venyx

Jessie Thomas

Jessie Thomas

Hancocks

Hancocks

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