World View: How Amrapali Blends Indian Tradition with Modern Eclecticism

May 20, 2024

By Katerina Perez

8 min read

On a recent visit to the bustling city of Jaipur, I visited the Amrapali boutique in the Panch Batti neighbourhood to immerse myself in its signature blend of ancient craftsmanship and modern sensibility. The brand has been on my radar for quite some time, so it was enlightening to dive into its history, ethos and inspirations with CEO and Creative Director Tarang Arora. During our conversation, I discovered some nuances that surprised me, which I am pleased to share in this article…

Amrapali was a woman. Or, at least, she’s a presumed real, perhaps mythological woman who is said to have lived around 500 BC. This ancient Indian courtesan is something of a muse, mentioned in the Old Pali and Buddhist traditions, representing femininity, beauty, and charm. The Amrapali we know today draws its name from this mysterious figure, despite the fact that the company was founded by two brothers – Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera in the late 1970s. Their shared history reads like something from a storybook, too, starting with a pilgrimage across India to study the unique jewellery worn by tribal communities. Their experiences bartering for objects in markets morphed into an obsession with Indian decorative arts and ancient techniques, which they channelled into luxurious jewels with a modern, eclectic twist. 

Amrapali co-founder Rajiv Arora with the late Queen Elizabeth II

Amrapali co-founder Rajiv Arora with the late Queen Elizabeth II

The Amrapali of today keeps this heritage alive, namely through its second-generation creative director, Tarang Arora, who I first met about 10 years ago at the very beginning of my jewellery writing career. One thing that was engraved into my memory was a statement stack of bangles on Tarang’s wrist that he wears to this day. It was an eclectic mix of jewels with a strong personality like many Amrapali designs. Even then, I remember Tarang telling me: “The brand was founded with the idea of preserving heritage skills, which it has done very well over the years”. 

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali earrings and necklace in gold set with rubies, pearls, spinels and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali earrings and necklace in gold set with rubies, pearls, spinels and diamonds

 Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali necklace and ring in gold set with rubies, pearls, lavender jade and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali necklace and ring in gold set with rubies, pearls, lavender jade and diamonds

To achieve its continuous tribal inspirations and dedication to the best practices of jewellery making in India, the brand has prioritised handcraftsmanship, specifically arts that could easily be lost to time were they not in safe hands. “No matter how modern or futuristic a design might be, it must have traditional craftsmanship involved with handmade skills, even when we are producing a large number of pieces,” Tarang shares with me while presenting rings and earrings with a subtle vintage flair made with the finest emeralds and diamonds. Personally, I believe this is what sets Amrapali apart: the look and feel of hand-making infused into pieces, whether they are wholly traditional in style or more internationally orientated for its global clientele. 

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali ring in gold set with rubies and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali ring in gold set with rubies and diamonds

The brand is known for multiple techniques, including its detailed work in 24k gold. I have always been drawn to its larger pieces, including grand chandelier earrings, beautiful suites of jewels, cuff bracelets and conversation-starting cocktail rings. Many of these designs are decorated with enamel – a signature of the house – as well as lotus-cut gemstones, notably rubies shapes as the brand’s logo. “There are lots of different techniques that we are known for,” he explains, “however, these must resonate from Jaipur, originate from India, and feature a lot of handwork and detailing. That is what people expect from Amrapali.”

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali bangle and holding a pair of earrings in gold set with pearls, rubies, spinels, polki diamonds and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali bangle and holding a pair of earrings in gold set with pearls, rubies, spinels, polki diamonds and diamonds

 Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali earrings in gold set with spinels, rubies and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali earrings in gold set with spinels, rubies and diamonds

 Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali bangle in gold set with pearls, rubies and polki diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali bangle in gold set with pearls, rubies and polki diamonds

If you ever have the chance to visit the Amrapali boutique in Jaipur or, indeed, one of its many other stores or stockists across India, the UK, the USA, Qatar and the Emirates, then you’ll know that this focus on the past hasn’t stopped it from looking to the future. Over the decades, the brand has changed with the times and studied the wider world for inspiration and new ideas. Now, its jewels originate from Indian culture but also global cultures and are infused with techniques from far and wide. According to Tarang, “the world is a much smaller place today”. He continues: “We tend to soak up skills when we go out and see different ways of making jewellery. We try to empower our craftsmen with that knowledge and provide them with the details and the tools to make those changes and combine them with Indian craftsmanship.” 

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali Golconda Diamond ring set with a 5-ct Golconda diamond, rose-cut diamonds and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing an Amrapali Golconda Diamond ring set with a 5-ct Golconda diamond, rose-cut diamonds and diamonds

And it’s not simply about the craftsmanship. Amrapali has learned from its customers, too, about what works well in different countries and what buyers are searching for. For example, it was the first Indian brand to launch in Selfridges department store in London in 2002 and has since flourished in Harrods, via its own boutiques in London and through Lane Crawford and Neiman Marcus in North America. Tarang says that when clients in these regions think about Amrapali, they think of detailed work, perhaps even “a Boho chic look”, and are often pairing pieces with traditional Indian clothing, eveningwear, or something casual during the day. 

Inside the Amrapali boutique in Jaipur

Inside the Amrapali boutique in Jaipur

 Window cases displaying the beautiful one of a kind creations inside the Amrapali boutique in Jaipur

Window cases displaying the beautiful one of a kind creations inside the Amrapali boutique in Jaipur

As someone from outside of Indian culture looking in, I have always appreciated the inherent confidence in Amrapali jewels, whether it’s the generous proportions, the extraordinary use of polki diamonds, the meticulous details (front and back), the use of enamel or the juicy cabochons, beads and briolettes used as embellishments! Arora says that he is also “biased towards emeralds” and uses them more liberally in his bejewelled experiments. He says: “The beautiful part is they are softer stones and can be easily recut and reworked. For me, working with gemstones is a lot more appealing compared to diamonds. There are so many different shades of emeralds and blue sapphires depending on their composition of the material and the mines they come from.” 

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali earrings in gold set with over 177-cts of emeralds and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali earrings in gold set with over 177-cts of emeralds and diamonds

But the story always comes back to Indian tradition… after all, where better to access an inspirational palette of coloured minerals than Jaipur, the world centre of gemstone cutting?! “We are lucky enough to get the first pick,” he adds. “If I was based in Surat, Ahmedabad or Bombay, maybe I would have been more inclined towards diamonds, but, due to the fact that we are in Jaipur, we are a more gemstone-orientated brand.” As a case in point, we spoke about a recent emerald and diamond bracelet crafted with a vintage look, set with Old European-cut diamonds, yellow diamonds and Brazilian emeralds – the perfect blend of old and new. 

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali Victorian ring and White Gold Stone ring in white gold set with emeralds, pearls, rose-cut diamonds and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali Victorian ring and White Gold Stone ring in white gold set with emeralds, pearls, rose-cut diamonds and diamonds

 Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali rings in white gold, emeralds, pearls and diamonds

Katerina Perez wearing Amrapali rings in white gold, emeralds, pearls and diamonds

When I was looking back through the archives of KaterinaPerez.com for previous mentions of Amrapali, I came across the Al Thani collection that wowed the Victoria & Albert Museum back in 2016. To create footage of traditional Indian craftsmanship in action for the exhibition, the V&A filmed inside the Amrapali workshop and watched as one of its team members produced a beautiful enamel pendant. It’s opportunities like this that have acted as milestones in the Amrapali story. Others are more personal for Tarang, such as speaking at the third CNI Luxury Conference, hosted by Vogue magazine’s Suzy Menkes in Oman in 2016 (one of only three Indian speakers), and watching his father and uncle attend a cultural exchange between the UK and India at Buckingham Palace, hosted by the late Queen Elizabeth II.

This is also an opportune moment to mention the Amrapali Museum, which is a labour of love for the brand’s founders, Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera. When they started their journey, neither were trained in jewellery and upon learning about traditional handicrafts, they “could not find a single place to learn about Indian jewellery, craftsmanship or tribal jewellery,” Tarang explains. After 40 years of collecting jewellery and precious objects, the Amrapali Museum contains over 4000 pieces, with roughly 800 on display. 

Amrapali restored Gold Old Jadau necklace which honours the timeless elegance of Jadau craftsmanship

Amrapali restored Gold Old Jadau necklace which honours the timeless elegance of Jadau craftsmanship

 Amrapali bracelet in white gold set with multi-coloured sapphires and rose-cut diamonds

Amrapali bracelet in white gold set with multi-coloured sapphires and rose-cut diamonds

 Amrapali Dark Maharaja necklace in gold set with rubies and diamonds

Amrapali Dark Maharaja necklace in gold set with rubies and diamonds

 Amrapali Dark Maharaja earrings in gold set with rubies and diamonds

Amrapali Dark Maharaja earrings in gold set with rubies and diamonds

 Amrapali Dark Maharaja necklace in gold set with rubies and diamonds

Amrapali Dark Maharaja necklace in gold set with rubies and diamonds

 Amrapali Victorian Lotus Pearl necklace in white gold set with pearls, emeralds, emerald beads, polki diamonds and diamonds

Amrapali Victorian Lotus Pearl necklace in white gold set with pearls, emeralds, emerald beads, polki diamonds and diamonds

 Amrapali Ruby earrings in white gold set with rubies and rose-cut diamonds

Amrapali Ruby earrings in white gold set with rubies and rose-cut diamonds

He continues: “There is no other museum like this in the world that’s dedicated to Indian jewellery of this size or magnitude, especially traditional Indian jewellery worn by the common man, lords, nobility and royalty.” Interestingly, the museum also highlights how foreign powers, such as the British, Portuguese, and French, influenced Indian jewellery making, so it’s a chance to dive deeper into the nuances of Indian traditions. 

Ornamental object on display at the Amrapali museum in gold set with precious gemstones

Ornamental object on display at the Amrapali museum in gold set with precious gemstones

 Ornamental object on display at the Amrapali museum in gold set with precious gemstones

Ornamental object on display at the Amrapali museum in gold set with precious gemstones

Amrapali has been preserving tradition for two generations, with the museum another step in celebrating and continuing Indian jewellery traditions. But times are changing, and the brand’s creative director is keenly aware that “the next generation is moving to white collar jobs” lured by city living and digital technology. “We try to explain to them that what their families have been doing for so many years, so many generations, is a vital part of Indian heritage,” Arora shares about tempting people back into the jewellery-making fold. 

Inside the Boho Chic Amrapali boutique in Jaipur

Inside the Boho Chic Amrapali boutique in Jaipur

However, in my opinion, one only has to look at the quality and beauty of the pieces emerging from the House of Amrapali to realise that such skills are gifts to treasure, not just for right now but for many decades to come. 

Watches & Wonders 2024: Luxury Timepieces with a Surprising Twist

continue reading

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

New Icons: The Latest Collections by Italian Micromosaic Master SICIS 

I was presented with two striking new collections – Icon and Colibrì – that offer different interpretations of the SICIS aesthetic. Below, I want to give you a closer look at these capsule suites and tell you more about the inspirations behind them

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Fabrications: TAOS Presents a Trio of Watches Inspired by Couture Fashion

Occasionally, beautiful timepieces demonstrating exceptional Métiers d’Art will land on our virtual desks and result in a round-robin series of emails. In the hours after we received insights into the emerging Swiss brand TAOS, almost the entire team had seen the fabric-inspired dials of its latest creations, and we all agreed that an article was […]

by Sarah Jordan

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.