Gothic and Gilded: The Rise of Black Gold Jewels

July 7, 2023

By Livia Primo Lack

9 min read

When you think of the classic hues of gold jewellery, the holy trinity of yellow, white and rose (often called pink) come to mind. But more and more, we are seeing a rise in the presence of black gold on the fine jewellery scene. Let’s take a look at some of our favourite examples…

Black gold is becoming an increasingly popular shade for this metal in fine jewellery. Many brands have been producing black gold jewels for years. Independent designers such as Shaun Leane, Patcharavipa and Venyx have included black gold in their collections since the brands’ inceptions. However, in the last few years, the presence of black gold has become increasingly popular in fine jewellery, even making its way into the design roster of high jewellery brands such as REZA, Yeprem, Gismondi 1754 and Simone Jewels.

Model wearing Venyx Rainbow Star ring in gold, black rhodium, multicolour sapphires, tsavorite garnet and amethyst

Model wearing Venyx Rainbow Star ring in gold, black rhodium, multicolour sapphires, tsavorite garnet and amethyst

 Simone Jewels Tattoo Beautiful Life earrings in black gold, tanzanite and diamond

Simone Jewels Tattoo Beautiful Life earrings in black gold, tanzanite and diamond

 Shaun Leane Serpent's Trace Wide bracelet in sterling silver black rhodium

Shaun Leane Serpent's Trace Wide bracelet in sterling silver black rhodium

 Patcharavipa ring in black gold and pink tourmaline

Patcharavipa ring in black gold and pink tourmaline

 REZA Titan bracelet in rhodium-plated gold, diamond and emerald

REZA Titan bracelet in rhodium-plated gold, diamond and emerald

First and foremost, what is black gold? Black gold is a man-made material that combines yellow gold with two or more alloys. These are referred to as “black gold alloys”. Black gold can also be made with surface-altering methods, in which the gold is coated in materials such as black rhodium. However, gold is not the only substance used to create black metal. Tungsten, silver, stainless steel, ceramic, titanium, and black carbon fibre are also widely used. The latter two are particularly popular in high jewellery, as their lightness and durability are advantageous in pieces with larger gemstones.

Stone Fine Jewelry Black Diamond Signet ring in black rhodium and black diamond

Stone Fine Jewelry Black Diamond Signet ring in black rhodium and black diamond

Why has black gold become so popular? The shift towards the appearance of effortlessness in ready-to-wear and couture fashion may have something to do with it; black gold adds an easy yet edgy flair to any outfit! No matter the size, gemstones become more eye-catching when set in this material. In addition, the black colour of the metal acts very much in a supporting role, not causing any unwanted tonal contrasts with your outfit. As the Italian fashion designer Riccardo Tisci said: “Black is always elegant. It is the most complete color in the whole world, made of all the colors in the palette.”

Aisha Baker Le Masque ring in blackened white gold and black diamond

Aisha Baker Le Masque ring in blackened white gold and black diamond

 Model wearing a Repossi limited edition earring in blackened gold and diamond

Model wearing a Repossi limited edition earring in blackened gold and diamond

 Lily Gabriella Diamond Hex Studs in blackened white gold and diamond

Lily Gabriella Diamond Hex Studs in blackened white gold and diamond

 Model wearing Eva Fehren rings in blackened white gold and diamond

Model wearing Eva Fehren rings in blackened white gold and diamond

A always, we want to save you time on research and made a selection of pieces for you below if you want to add a black gold jewel to your personal collection. We have included a mix of subtle everyday wear and larger cocktail designs for those extra-special occasions. Take a look!

La Tache Bobo

La Tache Bobo

Chocker in black gold featuring Zambian emeralds

Melissa Kaye

Melissa Kaye

Needle earrings in blackened gold and diamond

Katherine Jetter

Katherine Jetter

Ring in rhodium-plated gold, pink precious gemstone and diamond

Almasika

Almasika

Le Cauri Endiamanté drop earrings in black gold, white gold and diamond

Stone Fine Jewelry

Stone Fine Jewelry

Solar Black Diamond Emerald earrings in black rhodium-plated gold, emerald and black diamond

Le Vian

Le Vian

Le Vian Red Carpet ring in black gold featuring Vanilla Diamonds and Fancy Diamonds

Sorellina

Sorellina

Mini Bezel Crescent earrings in gold, black gold and diamond

Karma El Khalil

Karma El Khalil

Starry Night earrings in blackened gold and diamond

Repossi

Repossi

Ring in black gold and diamond

Caratell

Caratell

Cocktail ring in black gold and precious coloured gemstones

Yeprem

Yeprem

Black Strada drop earrings in black gold, white gold, black diamonds and diamonds

Jade Ruzzo

Jade Ruzzo

Stick earrings in blackened gold, Colombian emerald and Tahitian pearl

Vhernier

Vhernier

Trottola earrings in white gold, black titanium and diamond

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co.

Elsa Peretti Medium Bone cuff in black finish over copper

Nadine Aysoy

Nadine Aysoy

Celeste Black earrings in black gold, diamond and jade

Aisha Baker

Aisha Baker

Me Black Diamond Paved ring in gold, enamel and black diamond

Sybarite Jewelery

Sybarite Jewelery

Heritage ring in blackened gold, rubies and black diamonds

Patcharavipa

Patcharavipa

Ring in black gold, Paraiba tourmaline and diamond

Suzanne Kalan

Suzanne Kalan

Inlay Diamond Eternity band in blackened white gold and diamond

Lily Gabriella

Lily Gabriella

Spira earrings in black gold

Fernando Jorge

Fernando Jorge

Electric Bolt earrings in black rhodium plated-gold, black sapphire and black diamond

Serpentine Jewels

Serpentine Jewels

Hexagon and Kite Diamond Tennis bracelet in black rhodium and diamond

Reza

Reza

High Jewellery earrings in black gold, diamond, coloured gemstone and pearl

De Beers

De Beers

Talisman collection ring in white gold coated with rhodium and with grey diamond

Simone Jewels

Simone Jewels

Love of Courage Tattoo ring in white gold, black gold, sugarloaf cabochon aquamarine, pink sapphires and diamonds

Venyx

Venyx

Black Lady Gator ring in white gold, rhodium and diamond

Jessie Thomas

Jessie Thomas

Bombe style ring in gold, blackened white gold, emerald and diamond

Hancocks

Hancocks

Earrings in platinum, black rhodium, gold, emerald and diamond

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