Briolette diamonds: The revival of an ancient gemstone cut

March 23, 2020

By Jodie Smith

7 min read

The earliest evidence of the briolette cut can be traced to India in the 17th century, where J.B. Tavernier sold two briolette cut diamonds to Louis XIV and documented them in his book ‘Six Voyages of Jean Baptiste Tavernier.’ They are thought to have originated from the double rose cut, and have evolved as one side of these rose cut facets are elongated – forming a faceted drop appearance.

One of the most remarkable briolette cut diamonds in history embellishes the Walska brooch. Created in 1971 by Van Cleef&Arpels, it belonged to the collection of an opera singer and jewellery connoisseur, Ganna Walska – the jewel is in the form of a bird of paradise holding a fancy vivid yellow diamond drop of 96.62 carats in its beak.

Van Cleef & Arpels Walska transformable brooch with 96.62ct fancy vivid yellow diamond briolette, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold, from 1971

Van Cleef & Arpels Walska transformable brooch with 96.62ct fancy vivid yellow diamond briolette, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold, from 1971

 Van Cleef & Arpels Walska transformable brooch with 96.62ct fancy vivid yellow diamond briolette, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold, from 1971

Van Cleef & Arpels Walska transformable brooch with 96.62ct fancy vivid yellow diamond briolette, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold, from 1971

Another notable briolette cut diamond is the D colour type IIA 75.36 carat example which is considered the world’s largest and most perfect cut diamond of this shape. The William Goldberg Diamond Corp. spent months studying the rough gem before it was cut in the early 2000s, and subsequently sold at Christie’s auction in 2013 for $11.2 million. To this day, the collections of English Royal jewels and the Crown Jewels of Iran include ancient briolettes although many historic gemstones of this shape were re–cut in the past. During the 18th and early 19th centuries, diamond cutting technology progressed and became more precise giving way to other shapes of diamond. Another reason for the waning popularity of briolettes is that they were viewed as an inefficient use of gem’s rough.

William Goldberg necklace with D colour type IIA 75.36ct briolette diamond, fancy pink diamond and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

William Goldberg necklace with D colour type IIA 75.36ct briolette diamond, fancy pink diamond and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

Regardless of briolette cuts not offering the best diamond yield, their appeal is truly unique from the aesthetic point of view – allowing the viewer to admire a diamond’s beauty from every single angle. It should come as no surprise that briolettes have now become popular again, and consumers have a renewed appreciation for historical cuts and sentimental jewellery with a story.

Cartier Yuma necklace with briolette cut yellow and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

Cartier Yuma necklace with briolette cut yellow and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

 Cartier Yuma necklace with briolette cut yellow and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

Cartier Yuma necklace with briolette cut yellow and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

 Cartier Yuma earrings with briolette cut yellow and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

Cartier Yuma earrings with briolette cut yellow and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

In 2019, Cartier launched a fabulous collection of high jewellery called Magnitude, which included the Yuma line featuring bundles of briolette cut yellow diamonds. The earrings, necklace and ring play with expected proportions and shapes in fine jewellery, surprising the viewer with the unusual dynamics of the designs.

Graff necklace with pink and colourless diamonds in rose gold and platinum

Graff necklace with pink and colourless diamonds in rose gold and platinum

Another luxury maison that released a collection featuring briolette diamonds in the past year is Harry Winston. Its Fifth Avenue pieces feature an altogether more classic way of incorporating these cuts into jewellery: at the very end of the Fifth Avenue drop earrings and lariat necklace, the briolettes punctuate the dangling elements of the designs – accenting the romance and femininity of these pieces. Chopard’s 2018 Red Carpet collection featured a choker necklace brimming with brown diamonds creating the form of a ‘briolette fringe’. The jewel was described as a “flashback to the 1920s” by Caroline Scheufele, the Creative Director of Chopard jewellery and Co-President of Chopard.

Harry Winston necklace with briolette cut diamonds, rubies and accenting diamonds in platinum

Harry Winston necklace with briolette cut diamonds, rubies and accenting diamonds in platinum

 Harry Winston earrings with briolette cut diamonds, rubies and accenting diamonds in platinum

Harry Winston earrings with briolette cut diamonds, rubies and accenting diamonds in platinum

 Harry Winston Draperie necklace with briolette cut diamonds, pearls and accenting diamonds in platinum

Harry Winston Draperie necklace with briolette cut diamonds, pearls and accenting diamonds in platinum

 Harry Winston Draperie earrings with briolette diamonds, sapphires and accenting diamonds in platinum

Harry Winston Draperie earrings with briolette diamonds, sapphires and accenting diamonds in platinum

 Harry Winston Draperie earrings with briolette diamonds, pearls and diamonds in platinum

Harry Winston Draperie earrings with briolette diamonds, pearls and diamonds in platinum

 Chopard 2018 Red Carpet Collection choker with briolette cut colourless and brown diamonds and accenting diamonds in white gold

Chopard 2018 Red Carpet Collection choker with briolette cut colourless and brown diamonds and accenting diamonds in white gold

Taiwanese master jeweller Anna Hu likes to create voluminous designs, and occasionally uses whole clusters of briolettes to achieve this in her show-stopping pieces. In her Orchid ring with a cabochon jadeite, she finishes the piece with flourish of briolette cut diamonds emanating from the bejewelled flower.

Anna Hu Enchanted Orchid ring with 52.04 carats jadeite, briolette, rose and brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold

Anna Hu Enchanted Orchid ring with 52.04 carats jadeite, briolette, rose and brilliant-cut diamonds in white gold

One brand which made briolette cut diamonds truly their own is Amrapali. Sameer Lilani, EMEA Director of Amrapali jewellery explains why the brand favours the unconventional cut in their designs: “briolette diamonds, although understated, can change the look of a piece. I like their unusual nature and the character that they bring to jewellery. As one of the earliest diamond cuts, we like to include this traditional cutting technique with our Indian influence to make our creations all the more interesting.”

Amrapali earrings with yellow briolette cut diamonds, accenting diamonds, rubies and white agate in white gold

Amrapali earrings with yellow briolette cut diamonds, accenting diamonds, rubies and white agate in white gold

 Amrapali earrings with briolette cut diamonds, accenting diamonds and emeralds in white gold

Amrapali earrings with briolette cut diamonds, accenting diamonds and emeralds in white gold

 Amrapali earrings with briolette cut diamonds, Mozambique Paraiba-like tourmaline and white agate in white gold

Amrapali earrings with briolette cut diamonds, Mozambique Paraiba-like tourmaline and white agate in white gold

 Nina Runsdorf earrings with briolette cut diamonds and accenting diamonds in white gold

Nina Runsdorf earrings with briolette cut diamonds and accenting diamonds in white gold

 Nina Runsdorf ring with briolette cut brown diamonds in rose gold

Nina Runsdorf ring with briolette cut brown diamonds in rose gold

 Nina Runsdorf earrings with briolette cut diamonds, accenting diamonds and emeralds in white gold

Nina Runsdorf earrings with briolette cut diamonds, accenting diamonds and emeralds in white gold

 Nina Runsdorf necklace with briolette cut diamonds and accenting diamonds in white gold

Nina Runsdorf necklace with briolette cut diamonds and accenting diamonds in white gold

Nina Runsdorf is another contemporary jewellery designer could not resist the allure of shining diamond drops. She recently enriched her collection with new earrings and necklaces featuring diamond briolettes, stating that: “they are one of my favourite cuts, and I love them because they make pieces appear more antique – I love the way they catch the light as they appear like flickering candles. One of my favourite pieces I’ve ever made are my Fringe rings, which have a feeling of a rattle dancing on your hand. Mixing briolette diamonds with sliced diamonds makes them very contemporary, and I also love how when used in chandelier earrings, the diamonds dance when you wear them.”

Busatti Milano jewellery suite with yellow and brown briolette diamonds and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

Busatti Milano jewellery suite with yellow and brown briolette diamonds and accenting colourless diamonds in white gold

 Assael Fall Branch earrings with briolette diamonds and Fijian natural coloured pearls in rose gold

Assael Fall Branch earrings with briolette diamonds and Fijian natural coloured pearls in rose gold

 David Morris earrings with briolette diamonds, conch pearls and accenting diamonds in white gold

David Morris earrings with briolette diamonds, conch pearls and accenting diamonds in white gold

Graff, David Morris, Boucheron, Avakian, Assael, and Busatti Milano are only a few more of the names that embellish their jewels with briolette cut diamonds to varying extents. Having so many brands that use briolette diamonds proves that this stone cut contains a unique charm – and those who appreciate it understand that it is not only perfect faceting and brilliance that are important in diamonds – but the history and spirit of the gem as well.

Boodles: The New ‘Secret Garden’ Collection is Dedicated to the Cinematic Adaptation of the Eponymous Novel

continue reading

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

New Icons: The Latest Collections by Italian Micromosaic Master SICIS 

I was presented with two striking new collections – Icon and Colibrì – that offer different interpretations of the SICIS aesthetic. Below, I want to give you a closer look at these capsule suites and tell you more about the inspirations behind them

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Fabrications: TAOS Presents a Trio of Watches Inspired by Couture Fashion

Occasionally, beautiful timepieces demonstrating exceptional Métiers d’Art will land on our virtual desks and result in a round-robin series of emails. In the hours after we received insights into the emerging Swiss brand TAOS, almost the entire team had seen the fabric-inspired dials of its latest creations, and we all agreed that an article was […]

by Sarah Jordan

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.