Cabochon jewellery: The most delicious jewels

November 9, 2017

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

‘Cabochon’ – a French word derived from ‘Cabo’ (meaning ‘head’ in Latin) – has been a preferential gemstone cut for centuries. Originally it was favoured in antiquity for the ability to extract the largest possible yield from a rough gem. Contemporarily it remains favourite of jewellery admirers’ and those who create gemstone pieces alike for a multitude of reasons.

Cabochon cut is the oldest style of gemstone adaptation in existence, as a practical evolution of the completely spherical ‘bead’ gemstone. It is flat on one face – the one that is fixed within the jewellery setting, while the other face is completely rounded. For centuries, it has been the easiest shape to achieve for gemstone cutters and polishers.

Resonance de Cartier bracelet and ring with cabochon rubellites

Resonance de Cartier bracelet and ring with cabochon rubellites

There are some stones that are traditionally cut as cabochons – such as opals, and gemstones that exhibit ‘star’ or ‘cat’s eye’ effect. The reason behind it is that their natural inclusions are best displayed through a curved face of stones. Also, since the depth of a gem intensifies its colour, a master cutter may prefer cabochon in comparison to other cuts, as this may contribute tot making the stone’s hue more saturated. 

It’s possible that cabochon gemstones fascinate us in a way which is reminiscent of how we looked at crystals, and even coloured glass as children. Naturally, it allows a much greater depth, and appearance of volume compared to other gemstone cuts. The curved surface also enables a better view into the gemstone, which is especially fascinating with sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Their natural inclusions are displayed in all their intricate glory in this type of gemstone fashioning.

Boghossian cabochon emeralds and diamonds bracelet

Boghossian cabochon emeralds and diamonds bracelet

Unlike a traditional faceted stone mounted in a claw setting, the natural inclination with cabochon jewellery is to touch and view the stone from all angles. Since there are no facets, the light travels through the stone, rather than refracting from its facets and creates an effect of seeing the sun through a stained-glass window, rather than prism. 

Whether to choose a piece of jewellery with a cabochon-cut stone or a fully faceted one is a matter of personal preference. However, I am sure the selection of jewels in this gallery will spark the desire to own one.

Giampiero Bodino

Giampiero Bodino

Giampiero Bodino Barocco Necklace in the gold with 326.21 cts African Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds

Margherita Burgener

Margherita Burgener

Margherita Burgener ring with chrysoprase

Paula Crevoshay

Paula Crevoshay

Paula Crevoshay opal ring with tourmalines and diamonds

Arunashi

Arunashi

Arunashi moonstone ring with sapphires and diamonds set in titanium

Dior

Dior

Dior 'Versailles cote a jardin' brooch

David Morris

David Morris

David Morris sapphire and diamond ring

Avakian

Avakian

Avakian emerald and sapphire jewellery set

Boucheron

Boucheron

Boucheron star sapphire and diamond ring

Faberge

Faberge

Faberge emerald and diamond ring

Anna Hu

Anna Hu

Anna Hu emerald ring

Faidee

Faidee

Faidee 11 cts Burmese sapphire ring with Burmese rubies and diamonds

Verdura

Verdura

Verdura scarf necklace with cabochon emeralds set in yellow gold

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Twist' bracelet in emeralds, sapphires and diamonds

Niquesa

Niquesa

Niquesa amethyst ring with multicoloured sapphires and diamonds

Chopard

Chopard

Chopard 'Red Carpet' rubellite and multicoloured sapphires ring

Brumani

Brumani

Brumani rose quartz ring

David Webb

David Webb

David Webb ruby, sapphire and diamond ring

Cartier

Cartier

Cartier rubellite necklace from the Resonance de Cartier collection

Bulgari

Bulgari

Bulgari Balloon necklace from the 'Festa' collection

de Grisogono

de Grisogono

de Grisogono emerald and ruby bracelet

Cartier

Cartier

Cartier 'Panthere' sapphire and diamond brooch

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany & Co.

Tiffany rubellite ring

Pomellato

Pomellato

Pomellato Rouge Passion ring with synthetic rubies

Ringo

Ringo

Ringo Russian emerald, sapphire and diamond necklace

Faidee

Faidee

Faidee Burmese ruby bracelet with diamonds

Martin Katz

Martin Katz

Martin Katz ring with Paraiba tourmaline cabochon and diamonds

Suzanne Syz

Suzanne Syz

Suzanne Syz bracelet with multicoloured cabochon sapphires and diamonds

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