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Modern-Day Treasure Hunters: Chromia New York and Its Quest for Natural Colour
When I met Amit Bhansali, founder of Chromia, in New York, trays of gemstones gleamed between us like a secret language of colour. Vivid greens, ocean blues, sunset oranges and ethereal pinks—each one hummed with its own energy. I’ve encountered thousands of gemstones during private meetings such as this, but the treasures Amit revealed were unlike anything I had ever seen.
There were stones that even experienced gemmologists would pause over: sphalerite from Spain with three times the light dispersion of a diamond; a Dragon’s Egg Opal, a Mexican fire opal still cradled in its host rock; and a faceted Taaffeite, long mistaken for a spinel but in fact one of the world’s rarest gemstones, radiating a delicate lilac hue beneath the light. It was immediately clear that what Chromia brings to the table is entirely its own: a celebration of colour in its purest, most unexpected form. In a jewellery world still dominated by diamonds, there is something wonderfully rebellious about a man who lets colour—in all its untamed beauty—take the lead.
Chromia New York Founder’s Collection 15.77ct cushion cut tanzanite ring with Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds in 18k white gold
A Passion Born on Wall Street
Amit’s path to gemstones began not in a mine or a workshop, but on Wall Street. He is one of those jewellers who started in a completely different domain but could not resist the allure of colour and sparkle. Before founding Chromia, he worked in investment banking, walking each day through New York’s famed jewellery district on 47th Street. “I used to pass those windows filled with gemstones and couldn’t stop staring,” he tells me. “Eventually, I realised that this is what I truly loved.”
Founder’s Collection necklace with an astonishing 429.17ct of round tanzanites and 54.07ct round tanzanite ring, all framed with diamonds and set in 18k white gold
Amit has been collecting tanzanites for more than 20 years. These stones are Portuguese round cut—a cut known for its exceptional brilliance and fire, with many more facets than a traditional round brilliant
The reverse of the necklace is as beautifully crafted as the front, with decorative metalwork in 18k white gold
What began as curiosity soon evolved into a fully-fledged obsession and, ultimately, a new career. When he finally left his job in finance to establish his own company, Amit was determined to do things differently. “Nothing against diamonds,” he says with a smile, “but everyone does diamonds. I wanted to build a world around colour—around the stones that no one else was really championing.” From that conviction, Chromia New York was born in 2018: a fine jewellery brand whose forte is rare and exotic gemstones, each set in 18k gold.
Katerina with husband-and-wife team Swati and Amit Bhansali, founders of Chromia New York
Building a World Around Colour: A Family Affair
Part of the KHR Jewels legacy—a name with more than 20 years of history in the gemstone trade—Chromia is a family enterprise that spans continents. Employing some 300 artisans, its headquarters are in Jaipur, the epicentre of gemstone craftsmanship for centuries.
For Amit, having Chromia’s atelier based there was not just a practical choice but also a symbolic one. “Jaipur has always been the home of colour,” he tells me. “If you’re serious about gemstones, you have to be where colour lives.” From this vibrant hub, Chromia operates as a fully integrated house—sourcing, cutting, designing and producing all under one roof—using a meticulous seven-step manufacturing process to ensure every jewel carries the brand’s exacting standards of beauty and authenticity.
The connection to Jaipur runs even deeper through Amit’s wife and business partner, Swati, who was born into a family of emerald dealers. That early immersion gave her an instinctive feel for colour and proportion.
Two impressive pendant necklaces set with a 54.07ct round tanzanite and 67.94ct round sphalerite and diamonds in 18k white and yellow gold
Chromia New York Founder’s Collection necklace, set with 429.17ct of round tanzanites and 20.16ct of diamonds in 18k white gold
The depth of colour in the tanzanites is extraordinary, with each stone perfectly matched for tone, creating a harmony of violet-blue intensity
Today, she oversees every stage of Chromia’s creative journey, from sourcing and design to the final polish. Together, Amit and Swati have built something rare: a global business that retains the feel of a family atelier, where every jewel reflects the shared language of two people united by their love of gemstones.
Modern-Day Treasure Hunters
When Amit speaks about sourcing, his eyes light up with excitement. Chromia’s team hunts down gemstones—the top 5% in each category—across continents, from the copper-rich soils of Mozambique to the highlands of Tanzania, the opal fields of Mexico to the mines of Brazil. “You hear stories of people who go to the mines,” he tells me. “But for us, it’s about knowing the right people—the ones who’ve had stones tucked away for decades.”
A Chromia New York 130.70ct emerald cut bi-colour tourmaline pendant with diamonds in 18k white gold
Mined in Afghanistan, the 130.70ct bi-colour tourmaline comes with a special booklet from the AGL laboratory emphasising its rarity and uniqueness
This global reach allows Chromia to uncover gems so rare they seem almost mythical: a cornflower-blue benitoite, California’s elusive state gem; a Primera Rosada rubellite, prized for its deep, cherry-red glow. One gemstone boasting a gorgeous pinkish-red colour that I have never seen before is called Sweet Home Rhodochrosite and is mined only in the USA.
A true treasure that you might only see in this article and never again in your life is the rare 130-carat bi-colour tourmaline pendant. Mined in Afghanistan, it has a special booklet from the AGL laboratory emphasising its uniqueness. It states that “top-quality gem tourmalines of 5-10, and even 20 carats are rare. To have a gem of such colour and quality of craftsmanship in cutting and fashioning, is extremely rare”.
To own a gem of such colour and quality is extremely rare
Every gem has a voice—a story that begins deep in the earth and ends in someone’s hands. My job is simply to listen, and to let it shine. – Amit Bhansali
It’s this intuitive approach—part science, part instinct—that defines a Chromia gem. Every stone is natural, untreated and selected for the emotion it stirs as much as for the beauty it reveals. Once chosen, it becomes the starting point for a design, its setting created to allow the gem to speak for itself.
The emerald cut creates a window into the 130.70ct bi-colour tourmaline, highlighting its unique gradation of colours
Amit’s global network enables Chromia to uncover some of the rarest gemstones in the world and set them in one-of-a-kind jewels
The craftsmanship is superb from all angles
The Chromia Icons
One by one, Amit lifts the lids of each case, and the table begins to shimmer with colour. Some of these stones are so rare that even the most seasoned gem dealers might only ever see them in books. What impressed me most wasn’t just their scarcity, but how Amit has given many of them their own identity—a poetic, trademarked name that captures their character.
There is the Aurora Moonstone, luminous and full of shifting hues, its name inspired by the northern lights Amit once saw in Iceland; the Royal Victorian Amethyst from Zambia’s famed Victoria Falls region, whose violet depths unleash flashes of blue; and the Primera Rosada Rubellite, Chromia’s richest red gemstone, glowing with such intensity it could rival the finest ruby.
And then there are stones that sound almost fantastical: juicy Grapesicle Chalcedony, a naturally striped, purple stone found in Ethiopia; Mawi Kunzite, a vivid Afghan variety named after the region that yields its finest colour; and Bishop’s Garnet, a deep violet gem from Tanzania that echoes the royal purple of ecclesiastical robes.
Chromia New York's speciality is rare and exotic gemstones like this 67.94ct Spanish Sphalerite, set in a pendant with white and yellow diamonds in 18k white and yellow gold
There’s something romantic about giving a gem its own identity. If I just call it a rubellite, it’s a rock. But when we call it Primera Rosada, suddenly it has a soul—people want to know where it comes from, why it looks the way it does. That’s when the connection really begins. – Amit Bhansali
Sphalerite is also known as “Spanish sunset” for its radiant orange glow. Cut as a Portuguese round to bring out its inner fire, it is unheated, which means its vivid hue is 100% natural
Sphalerite is one of many collector’s gemstones in the Chromia New York Collection
The intense colour of the sphalerite is accentuated by a surround of yellow diamonds and 18K yellow gold claws
The precious lace design on the reverse of the jewels is a Chromia New York signature
Inside the Chromia Atelier
If gemstones are Chromia’s language, then craftsmanship is how the words are articulated—the bridge between earth and art that transforms geological rarity into jewels of exceptional beauty. Every piece begins life in the brand’s Jaipur atelier, where a team of artisans handcraft each design in 18k gold. Here, centuries of Indian jewellery-making tradition meet a contemporary design sensibility—one that favours bold silhouettes and a sense of movement that lets the stone breathe. Studying Chromia jewellery from various angles, I smiled at the precious lace design on the back of the jewels. For some, this may not be necessary, but to me, this attention to detail is what truly sets art jewellery apart from commercial designs.
14.72ct oval Sweet Home rhodocrosite ring with white diamonds, 5.32ct oval Primera Rosada rubellite ring with yellow and white diamonds, and 14.88ct cushion cut rhodonite ring with diamonds, all in 18k white and yellow gold
Noticing my emotions, Amit draws parallels between his craft and the philosophy of Steve Jobs. “Jobs believed that when you opened an Apple computer, even the inside should be beautiful,” he says with a smile. “Jewellery should be the same.” It’s a sentiment that comes alive in every meticulously crafted creation, with as much care lavished on the reverse of a jewel as the front.
A handful of Chromia’s rare and exotic gemstones: a 20.52ct emerald cut Mawi kunzite; a 9.19ct cushion cut titanium tourmaline; and a 9.42ct oval titanium tourmaline
The gemstone on the right is Mawi Kunzite, a vivid variety of kunzite named after the region in Afghanistan that yields its finest colour
The Primera Rosada rubellite, left, is Chromia’s richest red gemstone. It glows with such intensity it rivals the finest rubies
Turn the rings over and a hidden detail emerges: finely crafted decorative baskets
Educating Collectors
When Chromia’s founder speaks, there is an infectious enthusiasm that quickly turns our conversation into a gemstone masterclass. It’s little wonder that his television appearances have earned him a loyal following of collectors who tune in not simply to buy, but to learn. “For me, the beauty is that the stone sells itself,” he explains. “I’m just there to educate and to present it.”
39.21ct emerald cut titanium tourmaline ring with diamonds in 18k white gold and a 30.29ct oval Orion Opal cabochon ring with Alexandrites and diamonds in 18k white gold
Admiring the workmanship on the 39.21ct emerald cut titanium tourmaline ring
Unlike the traditional boutique experience, Chromia’s primary retail outlets in the US are private Trunk Show events, industry trade shows and television—a format that gives Amit a stage to share the stories behind each gem in far greater detail, revealing the science, history and human connection behind every stone. Viewers return time and time again, tracking the journey of specific gems and waiting for the next rare find to appear on air.
Chromia has trademarked its opals Orion Opals™. They represent the top 10% of all Ethiopian Welo opals
Among those collectors are public figures and jewellery aficionados who follow Amit’s appearances closely, eager to acquire one-of-a-kind pieces before they disappear from view. Behind the scenes, Chromia has quietly built a circle of celebrity collectors—individuals who value both the rarity of the gems and the integrity of the man behind them. It’s this spirit of transparency and education that sets Chromia apart. The brand’s private clients know that there is a journey of discovery behind each gemstone, and they respond to the honesty with which it is shared. “Not everyone wants to be sold to,” Amit says. “They want to understand, to choose and to fall in love with the stone themselves.”
Chromia sits on its rough Ethiopian Welo opal for 12 months before carving to ensure stability and quality of colour
Every Chromia New York jewel begins life in the brand’s Jaipur atelier, where a team of artisans handcraft each design in 18k gold
A Legacy of Colour
During our few hours together, I come to the conclusion that colour is Chromia’s compass—the element through which each jewel takes form. From the fiery warmth of sphalerite to the soft lilac glow of kunzite and the oceanic radiance of Paraiba tourmaline, every creation celebrates the individuality of the gem itself. In this world of rare hues, Chromia reminds us that true luxury lies not in uniform perfection, but in character, emotion and the beauty of nature, revealed by human hand.
Chromia New York 2.15ct emerald cut colour-change Oregon garnet ring with diamonds in 18k white gold
As the brand looks to the future, with new platinum designs and expanding collections on the horizon, that founding philosophy remains unchanged. Chromia exists to honour the natural world and the craftsmanship that brings it to life—to preserve the magic of gemstones for today’s collectors and connoisseurs.
14.34ct Oregon Sunset pendant with diamonds in 18k yellow gold. The centre stone showcases the Oregon Sunstone Dreamscape cut by John Dyer
The centre 2.15ct emerald cut colour-change Oregon garnet was shaped by master cutter John Dyer into the Oregon Sunstone Starbrite cut
Perhaps that’s what makes Amit Bhansali’s vision so compelling. Ultimately, Chromia is about connection—between colour and emotion, between maker and collector, between the earth and those who adorn themselves with its wonders. And you sense, as he turns a gemstone over in his hand, that this connection will only deepen—one rare colour, and one remarkable story, at a time.
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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