Joyful Universe: The Bewitching Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery Collection

March 21, 2025

By Sarah Jordan

7 min read

Victoire de Castellane is back with another high jewellery story inspired by the life and loves of Monsieur Christian Dior, translated directly from the brand’s remarkable archives. This time, we are presented with Dior Milly Dentelle, a colourful homage to the couturier’s home in Milly-la-Forêt, which is described as a “dreamlike landscape dappled with a profusion of flowers, foliage with asymmetrical curves and flamboyant groves”. During the initial presentation of the collection at Paris Haute Couture Week in January, our eyes were immediately drawn to Mozambique rubies and a fairytale necklace with cloud-like blossoms of white pearls and diamonds. Although it’s safe to say there’s plenty to capture attention in this 76-piece offering… let’s take a closer look. 

Abundance is the first word that springs to mind when considering the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection. This isn’t just an abundance of colourful gemstones but also an overwhelming number of details, ideas, combinations, shapes and silhouettes that combine to create a beautiful selection of jewels. The thread that links all these pieces together is a kind of floral femininity – part of a joyful, uplifting universe – in which the only rules are to enjoy the radiance of rubies, sapphires, pearls, opals, emeralds and tsavorites set in pieces that are designed to elicit a smile. 

Sapphire, diamond and micro-pearl choker necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

Sapphire, diamond and micro-pearl choker necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

Among the 76 creations, there are pieces in white, yellow and pink gold, some with delicate lace-like openwork structures, others with roses, cloudy skies, and entire woodland scenes. Across all the designs, there is a sense of lightness and airiness so that despite the carat weights of leading gems, the pieces still appear whimsical and delicate. This is especially noticeable in chokers and collar necklaces, which leave plenty of space for skin to show through. Overall, the brand describes its approach as a “homage to the magic of the infinitely meticulous, combined with the splendour of the plant world, so dear to the House of Dior”. 

A necklace with a large yellow diamond, further yellow diamonds, and colourless diamonds in a lace-like openwork structure from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A necklace with a large yellow diamond, further yellow diamonds, and colourless diamonds in a lace-like openwork structure from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A demantoid garnet, emerald and multi-coloured sapphire creation from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A demantoid garnet, emerald and multi-coloured sapphire creation from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A floral inspired ring with a large pear-shaped diamond and further fancy-cut diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A floral inspired ring with a large pear-shaped diamond and further fancy-cut diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

Earrings with black opals, turquoise, diamonds and multi-coloured gemstones from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

Earrings with black opals, turquoise, diamonds and multi-coloured gemstones from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A necklace with a large ruby, diamonds, micro-pearls and multi-coloured gemstones from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A necklace with a large ruby, diamonds, micro-pearls and multi-coloured gemstones from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A rose-inspired creation from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection set with emeralds, demantoids, rubies, pink sapphires, and diamonds in textured gold

A rose-inspired creation from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection set with emeralds, demantoids, rubies, pink sapphires, and diamonds in textured gold

A ring with a large pear-shaped pink sapphire, marquise-shaped pink sapphires and diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A ring with a large pear-shaped pink sapphire, marquise-shaped pink sapphires and diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A pair of earrings with oval-shaped sapphires, gem-set leaves and textured white gold branches from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A pair of earrings with oval-shaped sapphires, gem-set leaves and textured white gold branches from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A statement ring from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection with a large marquise-shaped diamond surrounded by multi-coloured gemstones and further diamonds

A statement ring from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection with a large marquise-shaped diamond surrounded by multi-coloured gemstones and further diamonds

The gold mesh and lacework within the collection are reminiscent of couture clothing, thus continuing Victoire De Castellane’s long fascination with ‘fashion through the lens of jewellery’. We also see plenty of colourful gradients in this new offering, including pieces with a full spectrum of colours and shades that radiate outwards from large, eye-catching centre stones. Much like the Dior Joaillerie Les Jardins de la Couture (Couture Gardens) High Jewellery collection from 2023, there are pieces in Milly Dentelle that feature naïve outlines of landscapes – almost as if a child has drawn the utopian ideal of rolling hills and blooming flower beds. These landscapes reveal flowers, clouds, leaves and fruit trees, immortalised in both yellow and white gold, in exclusively asymmetrical layouts. This is especially notable in earrings but is evident in rings, necklaces and pendants, too. 

A pair of earrings with multi-coloured sapphires and further gemstones in an 18k rose gold openwork floral structure from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A pair of earrings with multi-coloured sapphires and further gemstones in an 18k rose gold openwork floral structure from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

Despite this leaning towards riotous colour, one of the key necklaces from the collection is composed of round brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamond flowers that sparkle around white pearls. These bloom alongside marquise-cut diamond flowers, more pearls, and the occasional hint of yellow gemstones in 18k rose gold, leading the eye to a large pear-shaped diamond solitaire that’s lined in a halo of creamy pearls. The set to which this necklace belongs was made at the Maison’s 30 Avenue Montaigne High Jewellery workshop, taking more than 2,500 hours to complete. What was especially interesting during Paris Haute Couture Week was hearing the Dior team refer to these arrangements of pearls as ‘micro-pearls’ and describe them as a tool for creating contrast. One of Victoire de Castellane’s signatures is using coloured lacquer to add this kind of dimension, so it is exciting to see this new creative avenue emerging. 

A key necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection is composed of round brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamond flowers with micro-pearls and a large pear-shaped diamond drop in 18k rose gold

A key necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection is composed of round brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamond flowers with micro-pearls and a large pear-shaped diamond drop in 18k rose gold

A closer look at the micro-pearl accents used in the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection to create contrast and depth

A closer look at the micro-pearl accents used in the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection to create contrast and depth

The occasional placement of yellow gems in a signature necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection helps to create a three-dimensional look

The occasional placement of yellow gems in a signature necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection helps to create a three-dimensional look

A signature necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection is set with a large pear-shaped diamond drop, surrounded by further diamonds and micro-pearls

A signature necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection is set with a large pear-shaped diamond drop, surrounded by further diamonds and micro-pearls

Crafting this signature necklace in the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection required more than 2,500 hours of craftsmanship

Crafting this signature necklace in the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection required more than 2,500 hours of craftsmanship

One of the highlights of the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection – a necklace with a pear-shaped diamond drop, round brilliant-cut diamonds, further pear-shaped diamonds, yellow gemstones and micro-pearls in 18k gold

One of the highlights of the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection – a necklace with a pear-shaped diamond drop, round brilliant-cut diamonds, further pear-shaped diamonds, yellow gemstones and micro-pearls in 18k gold

Another necklace - Manege Fleuri - follows in the footsteps of the playful Diorama & Diorigami High Jewellery collection from 2024. This time, rather than cartoon-like animals achieved in carved gems, we see doodle-like arrangements of flowers and leaves on a pencil-thin rose gold framework. At its centre, there’s a large emerald bordered by diamonds and pear-shaped pink sapphires. Dior Milly Dentelle also incorporates some impressive solitaires, including a 7.09-carat sapphire, a 5.45-carat Mozambique ruby and a 9.88-carat Paraiba tourmaline. Personally, I am drawn to the precious opals in this collection, especially two long pendant necklaces that frame each cabochon with diamonds or perfectly chaotic blends of tsavorites, sapphires and turquoises. 

The Manege Fleuri necklace with an emerald centre stone bordered by diamonds and pear-shaped pink sapphires, plus further gem-set flowers and leaves on a rose gold framework from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

The Manege Fleuri necklace with an emerald centre stone bordered by diamonds and pear-shaped pink sapphires, plus further gem-set flowers and leaves on a rose gold framework from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

Placing an emerald solitaire in the Manege Fleuri necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

Placing an emerald solitaire in the Manege Fleuri necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

Adding pink sapphire blooms to the Manege Fleuri necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

Adding pink sapphire blooms to the Manege Fleuri necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

An original sketch of the Manege Fleuri necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection, which features doodle-like flowers on a fine 18k rose gold openwork frame. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

An original sketch of the Manege Fleuri necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection, which features doodle-like flowers on a fine 18k rose gold openwork frame. Photo credit Piotr Stoklosa

The Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection features significant gemstones, including this 9.88-carat Paraiba tourmaline set in a ring

The Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection features significant gemstones, including this 9.88-carat Paraiba tourmaline set in a ring

The Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection features significant gemstones, including this large sapphire cabochon surrounded by micro-pearls, further sapphires, mother of pearl inlay and round brilliant-cut diamonds

The Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection features significant gemstones, including this large sapphire cabochon surrounded by micro-pearls, further sapphires, mother of pearl inlay and round brilliant-cut diamonds

The Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection features significant gemstones, including this large ruby cabochon surrounded by further rubies, pink sapphires, demantoid garnets, micro-pearls and mother of pearl inlay

The Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection features significant gemstones, including this large ruby cabochon surrounded by further rubies, pink sapphires, demantoid garnets, micro-pearls and mother of pearl inlay

A long pendant necklace set with an oval-shaped black opal, multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A long pendant necklace set with an oval-shaped black opal, multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A second pendant necklace set with an impressive oval-shaped precious opal, surrounded by micro-pearls and diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A second pendant necklace set with an impressive oval-shaped precious opal, surrounded by micro-pearls and diamonds from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

Many of Victoire de Castellane’s signatures are evident in this collection, including the use of precious opals, chromatic borders or ‘frames’ of colour (this time achieved with gemstones rather than lacquer), and chokers that tell a story from left to right, almost like a polyptych. Often, chokers are thought of as restrictive and uncomfortable, which is why their methods of construction, lightness, flexibility and suppleness must be meticulously considered. My favourite in this collection is a sunny garden scene, centred around a cushion-shaped yellow diamond, with ruby-set fruit trees, marquise-shaped yellow sapphire flowers, pink flowers and tsavorite leaves. However, there’s no denying the mineral intensity of a pair of chokers – one with a large ruby cabochon and the other a sapphire cabochon – alongside mother-of-pearl butterflies, pearls, marquise-shaped coloured stones and fancy-cut diamonds. 

A choker necklace with a garden scene, set with a cushion-shaped yellow diamond, ruby-set fruit trees, marquise-shaped yellow sapphires, pink sapphires and tsavorites in yellow gold, from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A choker necklace with a garden scene, set with a cushion-shaped yellow diamond, ruby-set fruit trees, marquise-shaped yellow sapphires, pink sapphires and tsavorites in yellow gold, from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection

A choker necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection with a large sapphire cabochon, mother of pearl butterflies, pearls, marquise-shaped coloured stones and fancy-cut diamonds

A choker necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection with a large sapphire cabochon, mother of pearl butterflies, pearls, marquise-shaped coloured stones and fancy-cut diamonds

A choker necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection with a large ruby cabochon, mother of pearl butterflies, pearls, marquise-shaped coloured stones and fancy-cut diamonds

A choker necklace from the Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery collection with a large ruby cabochon, mother of pearl butterflies, pearls, marquise-shaped coloured stones and fancy-cut diamonds

The new Dior Milly Dentelle collection really manages to capture so many emotions that are missing in the world right now, namely whimsy, optimism, and joyfulness. Colour is used so expressively that it’s easy to forget just how much artisanal precision is required to form those ultra-fine, lace-like precious metal frames and micro-pearl borders. Trust us when we say these pieces are even more tempting in real life. 

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