Floral Flair: Jewellery Brands with a Penchant for Petals

April 27, 2022

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

It would be difficult to discover a fine jewellery brand that has never explored the realm of flowers in its designs. There is, however, a selection whose love for blooms is more than skin deep and has become part of their aesthetic root system. Here, I would like to celebrate the works of six brands that have mastered the art of bringing flowers to life through diamonds, gemstones and precious metals…

It seems we all start to sketch little four-petal daisies from the moment we can hold a pencil. Why are we drawn to flowers, even as small children? Perhaps it is simply their ubiquitous beauty; flowers bloom all around us and, like people, they appear in all guises, sizes, colours, shapes and complexities. Flora has been a source of inspiration for jewellers for hundreds of years, with Art Nouveau immediately jumping to my mind as the pinnacle of floral intensity. Contemporary jewellery brands are continuing to reinvent flowers to this day, incorporating stems, petals and leaves in designs that exemplify their stylistic DNA. Here are some of my favourite examples. 

A flower creation with pink sapphires and diamonds by Leo Pizzo

A flower creation with pink sapphires and diamonds by Leo Pizzo

Goldesign

It’s not hard to imagine walking into a ballroom wearing creations by Ana Márcia Albuquerque, Creative Director of Goldesign Bossa Group, which prescribes to a fantastically fun “more is more” mentality. Goldesign jewels are filled with large gems, tiny details made of sculptured gold and, of course, copious amounts of floral silhouettes that curate a bouquet-like effect. “Turning details into incomparable style is the motivation for Ana,” explains Marcella Albuquerque of the Brazilian brand and Ana’s daughter. “Her exclusive world of creation began during her years spent in France, where she channelled the beauty of nature and her Brazilian sophistication into the joy of designing. All the details matter to her. Such as a flower and a butterfly are never the same, she celebrates nature creating pieces of pure luxury, never repeated, to collect and wear.”

Katerina Perez wears flower inspired earrings and rings by Goldesign

Katerina Perez wears flower inspired earrings and rings by Goldesign

 Goldesign floral necklace with coloured gemstones and diamonds

Goldesign floral necklace with coloured gemstones and diamonds

 Goldesign flower earrings in shades of pink and red with diamonds in yellow gold

Goldesign flower earrings in shades of pink and red with diamonds in yellow gold

 Goldesign floral necklace with turquoise cabochons, diamonds and tsavorite garnets

Goldesign floral necklace with turquoise cabochons, diamonds and tsavorite garnets

 Goldesign flower-inspired cuff bracelet design

Goldesign flower-inspired cuff bracelet design

 A pair of Goldesign earrings with floral motifs, coloured gemstones, diamonds and pearls

A pair of Goldesign earrings with floral motifs, coloured gemstones, diamonds and pearls

 Goldesign floral cuff bracelet with emeralds and diamonds

Goldesign floral cuff bracelet with emeralds and diamonds

 Goldesign necklace with carved gemstone flowers and diamonds

Goldesign necklace with carved gemstone flowers and diamonds

MATHON Paris

“The house has been praising nature since its origins 50 years ago. Flowers are the favourite subject because they combine organic volumes with an explosion of colours that sublimate the hands of the jeweller.” These are the words of MATHON Paris President, Aude Mathon, who is at the helm of a veritable ecosystem of jewels, including flowers, butterflies, dragonflies, coral, starfish and so much more from nature. The Mathon family has artistry in its blood, which explains why so many of its jewels are painterly in style… brilliant bouquets are concocted with cushion-cut coloured gems, smooth cabochons and hand-enamelled details like ladybirds climbing stems. Some of the flower jewels are one-of-a-kind while other belong to the Florilège collection.

MATHON Paris Lys Calla ring with diamonds, coloured gemstones and a single pearl

MATHON Paris Lys Calla ring with diamonds, coloured gemstones and a single pearl

 MATHON Paris Bouquet de Jasmin diamond-set earrings

MATHON Paris Bouquet de Jasmin diamond-set earrings

 MATHON Paris Anémone ring with an oval-shaped pink gemstone centre

MATHON Paris Anémone ring with an oval-shaped pink gemstone centre

 MATHON Paris Glycine ring with pear-shaped pink gemstones

MATHON Paris Glycine ring with pear-shaped pink gemstones

 MATHON Paris Parisette flower-inspired ring

MATHON Paris Parisette flower-inspired ring

 MATHON Paris Marguerite ring with opal cabochons

MATHON Paris Marguerite ring with opal cabochons

 MATHON Paris floral bouquet ring with petals, ladybirds and a central cushion-shaped tourmaline

MATHON Paris floral bouquet ring with petals, ladybirds and a central cushion-shaped tourmaline

Cesare Pompanon 1936

Third generation French brand Cesare Pompanon 1936 creates feminine floral sprays that hang delicately around the neck or bloom like wedding bouquets from fingers. Today, the brand is led by the grandchildren of its founder, René Pompanon, who started from a small workshop in Lyon in 1936. The spirit of family is entrenched in the Cesare Pompanon 1936 DNA, which perhaps explains the comforting familiarity and timelessness of its jewels. These are flowery combinations of gemstones that aren’t just beautiful to look at but are comfortable to wear too. “We want to be part of the life of each of you… Accompany you in the expression of your femininity.” In 2014 they introduced their flora-inspired Primavera collection and the signature signature cocktail ring with twisting flowers that has won many hearts and have been developed in other forms like twisting hearts or disks.

Katerina Perez wears a floral-inspired necklace by Cesare Pompanon 1936

Katerina Perez wears a floral-inspired necklace by Cesare Pompanon 1936

 Cesare Pompanon 1936 matching necklace and ring suite inspired by flowers

Cesare Pompanon 1936 matching necklace and ring suite inspired by flowers

 Katerina Perez wears malachite and diamond flower jewels by Cesare Pompanon 1936

Katerina Perez wears malachite and diamond flower jewels by Cesare Pompanon 1936

 Cesare Pompanon 1936 malachite and diamond flower ring

Cesare Pompanon 1936 malachite and diamond flower ring

 Cesare Pompanon 1936 matching ring and necklace suite inspired by flowers

Cesare Pompanon 1936 matching ring and necklace suite inspired by flowers

 Cesare Pompanon 1936 cocktail ring inspired by a bouquet of flowers

Cesare Pompanon 1936 cocktail ring inspired by a bouquet of flowers

Leo Pizzo

Flowers bloom at the heart of one of this Italian brand’s most iconic ranges, Collezione Flora, which includes pavé petals in hues of white, yellow and rose gold, as well as the Candy Flora selection of daintier pieces. In fact, the Pizzo family is said to have a passion for gardening and plants in general, so its jewels are clearly a labour of love! Rocco Pizzo, the son of founder Leo Pizzo, says: “We can express our know-how for multi-level design, not just flat layers, but rich 3D curves and we can use our pavé setting, which is something that we are really proud of. With the flowers theme and pavé setting, we can use the skills of our stone selectors to achieve more complex shades of colours – this is another expression of our savoir-faire.”

Leo Pizzo rings from the Flora collection

Leo Pizzo rings from the Flora collection

 Leo Pizzo sapphire and diamond ring from the Flora collection

Leo Pizzo sapphire and diamond ring from the Flora collection

 Leo Pizzo Flora collection earrings with pink sapphires and diamonds

Leo Pizzo Flora collection earrings with pink sapphires and diamonds

 Leo Pizzo diamond ring from the Flora collection

Leo Pizzo diamond ring from the Flora collection

Palmiero

“I see flowers as the rebel soul of nature, each with its own distinctive and unique character,” says Luca Palmiero, the son of Carlo Palmiero who founded his eponymous brand in northern Italy in the 1970s. I would say that flowers have long been a part of Palmiero’s DNA and they have created dozens of interpretations of blossoming buds. Luca continues: “I think nature has invented everything; we can only pay homage to it. In my case, giving shape to unique jewels, which maintain the natural movements of the flower and their shades of colour is the best gift I can give to the people who love them.” For me, the flower power of Palmiero emerges in its pavé designs that allow each petal to unfurl as a canvas for precious gems. 

Palmiero necklace and matching ring from the Ginkgo collection

Palmiero necklace and matching ring from the Ginkgo collection

 Palmiero Poppy necklace with diamonds and sapphires in yellow gold

Palmiero Poppy necklace with diamonds and sapphires in yellow gold

 Palmiero Begonia creation with coloured gemstones and diamonds

Palmiero Begonia creation with coloured gemstones and diamonds

 Palmiero Sunflower ring with multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds

Palmiero Sunflower ring with multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds

 Palmiero Embracing Flower ring with an opal cabochon

Palmiero Embracing Flower ring with an opal cabochon

 Palmiero Tulip Flower rings with shades of pink and purple gemstones

Palmiero Tulip Flower rings with shades of pink and purple gemstones

SICIS

Floral themes coupled with a palette as rich as micro mosaics is a recipe for success, something that SICIS knows only too well. Its larger flower creations are the result of countless hours of sorting and assembly in a way that’s unique to this specific form of jewellery artistry. The blooms that emerge from SICIS’ workshop are heightened in colour and somewhat fantastical like they’ve blossomed from the pages of Alice in Wonderland. SICIS Creative Director Gioia Placuzzi tells me: “The floral world has always provided me with a vast array of creative options and inspirations. This is because in jewellery flowers find their best expression in micromosaic thanks to the ability of this technique to bring to life both shapes and colours in such a provocative and powerful way.”

SICIS Jeux des Contraires parure, including a necklace, ring and earrings

SICIS Jeux des Contraires parure, including a necklace, ring and earrings

 SICIS Rose Carpet necklace with a micro-mosaic flower

SICIS Rose Carpet necklace with a micro-mosaic flower

 SICIS Iris Mauve ring and matching earrings

SICIS Iris Mauve ring and matching earrings

 SICIS Candy Garden micro-mosaic watch with a satin strap

SICIS Candy Garden micro-mosaic watch with a satin strap

 SICIS Printemps Mon Amour ring with coloured gemstones and micro-mosaic petals

SICIS Printemps Mon Amour ring with coloured gemstones and micro-mosaic petals

 SICIS Daisy White parure

SICIS Daisy White parure

 SICIS Contraires earrings with diamonds and micro-mosaic

SICIS Contraires earrings with diamonds and micro-mosaic

Just because a motif is common, doesn’t mean it can’t be achieved with great elegance and aplomb. These brands have taken nature’s profile of petals, stems, stamens, leaves and all things in between to create something tangible that can elevate the necks, arms, ears and fingers of women everywhere. And who wouldn’t want to be adorned in this bouquet? 

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