L’Esprit du Lion: A New High Jewellery Collection by Chanel

February 9, 2018

By Katerina Perez

7 min read

It has become customary for Chanel to relate almost every jewellery and watch collection with an event from the extravagant and intriguing life of its founder, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel. The eponymous brand has released their latest lion-themed haute joaillerie collection: ‘L’Esprit du Lion,’ meaning ‘The Lion Spirit’.

This collection follows the first narrative about the king of the jungle that was told in gold, diamonds and other gemstones in 2013. That line was called ‘Sous le Signe du Lion’ (‘Under the Sign of Leo’) and – in the words of its creators – was dedicated to the astrological sign under which Coco Chanel was born, as well as the legendary lion of St. Mark, the heraldic symbol of Venice, the city which saved Gabrielle Chanel from grief and despair after the death of her beloved Boy Capel.

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with 15 oval‑cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 31.65 carats and 220 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with 15 oval‑cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 31.65 carats and 220 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Infinite" ring in 18K white gold set with a pear‑cut diamond and 166 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Infinite" ring in 18K white gold set with a pear‑cut diamond and 166 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" ring in 18K yellow gold set with an oval‑cut beryl of 6.49 carats and 192 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" ring in 18K yellow gold set with an oval‑cut beryl of 6.49 carats and 192 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Legendary" ring in 18K white gold set with more than 230 diamonds and a pear‑cut fancy vivid yellow diamond of 4.01 carats

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Legendary" ring in 18K white gold set with more than 230 diamonds and a pear‑cut fancy vivid yellow diamond of 4.01 carats

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" earrings in 18K yellow gold set with 4 oval‑cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 26.69 carats and 39 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" earrings in 18K yellow gold set with 4 oval‑cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 26.69 carats and 39 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Legendary" earrings in 18K yellow gold set with 2 cushion‑cut fancy vivid yellow diamonds for a total weight of 4.40 carats and 406 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Legendary" earrings in 18K yellow gold set with 2 cushion‑cut fancy vivid yellow diamonds for a total weight of 4.40 carats and 406 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Passionate" cuff in 18K yellow gold set with one orage topaze, 1 round‑cut diamond and brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Passionate" cuff in 18K yellow gold set with one orage topaze, 1 round‑cut diamond and brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 square emerald‑cut brown diamonds for a total weight of 2.57 carats, 26 round‑cut brown diamonds, 28 fancy‑cut brown diamonds, 516 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" earrings in 18K white gold set with 2 square emerald‑cut brown diamonds for a total weight of 2.57 carats, 26 round‑cut brown diamonds, 28 fancy‑cut brown diamonds, 516 brilliant‑cut diamonds

If Chanel’s youth is associated with Venice, then her later years (and the commercial success that went with it) is linked to the atelier at 31 Rue Cambon. This famous residence, with its Coromandel screens and magnificent mirrored spiral staircase, was where she hosted friends and her select clientele. The apartments of the great Mademoiselle are, to this day, decorated with her favourite things and antique objects, displayed on beams, consoles and mantelpieces. Among them are dozens of lions, as her superstitions lead her to believe that predatory cats were her lucky charm.

Gabrielle Chanel in her apartment, 31 rue Cambon, Paris. 1957 Photo Mike de Dulmen © Collection CHANEL

Gabrielle Chanel in her apartment, 31 rue Cambon, Paris. 1957 Photo Mike de Dulmen © Collection CHANEL

It was this range of omnipotent lions, some cut from wood, others sculpted from marble, bronze or gold-plated, that inspired Chanel’s jewellers in Place Vendôme to create this new 53-piece collection, which was shown to clients and industry experts in January 2018 during Paris Fashion Week.

The 2013 lion collection had rutilated quartz as its focal gemstone. For example, a lion’s figure was cut from the stone to create the collection’s flagship necklace. In ‘L’Esprit du Lion’, the golden heliodor beryl fulfilled this role. Using the same technique, the engravers cut a lion’s snout from the stone to cover the Eternelles watch face. 32 stretched oval cut heliodors adorn the Dazzling necklace, the most extravagant in the collection, 15 decorate a bracelet and 3 were assigned to a pair of asymmetric earrings.

LES ETERNELLES de CHANEL, L'ESPRIT DU LION BERYL SECRET watch in 18K white gold set with 1 yellow carved‑cut beryl of 37.41 carats and 541 brilliant‑cut diamonds

LES ETERNELLES de CHANEL, L'ESPRIT DU LION BERYL SECRET watch in 18K white gold set with 1 yellow carved‑cut beryl of 37.41 carats and 541 brilliant‑cut diamonds

Another vibrant stone chosen by the collection’s creators is a bright orange octagonal topaz that recalls the shape of Place Vendôme, and the perfume bottle stoppers of Chanel No. 5. This was the focal stone of the ‘Passionate’ line, featuring a transformable necklace boasting a 30 carat topaz, a bracelet and chandelier earrings. The orange topaz is accented by pink and lilac sapphires in a variation of cuts.

Lion snouts and profiles are cast in a variety of poses by the jewellers at Chanel with – almost without exception – a thick link chain motif. Whereas the sautoirs have chains which are usually ductile, the collar necklaces and cuff bracelets are solid and broad. This is a frame, bejewelled with pavé set diamonds, that only resembles a chain. Amongst the pieces in the ‘Eternal’ collection – an asymmetric white gold and diamond necklace and a bracelet – there are several types of chain with links of varying sizes.

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Fancy intense yellow diamond

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Fancy intense yellow diamond

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL -  "Legendary" transformable necklace in 18K white and yellow gold set with more than 1200 diamonds and 1 cushion‑cut fancy intense yellow diamond of 30.19 carats

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Legendary" transformable necklace in 18K white and yellow gold set with more than 1200 diamonds and 1 cushion‑cut fancy intense yellow diamond of 30.19 carats

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL -  "Legendary" transformable necklace in 18K white and yellow gold set with more than 1200 diamonds and 1 cushion‑cut fancy intense yellow diamond of 30.19 carats

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Legendary" transformable necklace in 18K white and yellow gold set with more than 1200 diamonds and 1 cushion‑cut fancy intense yellow diamond of 30.19 carats

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Work on the mane of the lion

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Work on the mane of the lion

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Fancy intense yellow diamond

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Fancy intense yellow diamond

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Banding of the fancy diamonds

Work on the pieces from the L'ESPRIT DU LION High Jewelry collection in the CHANEL workshop, 18 Place Vendôme, Paris ‑ Banding of the fancy diamonds

The frames of the jewels have been produced in 18 karat white or yellow gold, or platinum. Several pieces have been duplicated to produce a number of iterations: for instance, there are the ‘Timeless’ brooches made of yellow gold, yellow sapphires and diamonds, as well as a version in white gold and diamonds. The ‘Protective’ collection also includes pieces made using colourless diamonds, or a combination of colourless and tawny diamonds: a brooch pin, a bracelet, a necklace, chandelier earrings and a magnificent ring with a cushion cut yellow diamond weighing nearly 5 carats. However, that isn’t the biggest stone of its type in the collection: for the ‘Legendary’ necklace, the jewellers selected a 30 carat stone.

Among the highlights of this collection are a ring with a 5.28 carat marquise cut colourless diamond from the ‘Commanding’ line, and the elegant ‘Byzantine Brilliant’ ring containing spessartines, yellow sapphires, diamonds and Japanese pearl, comprising two parts joined by a chain.

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Timeless" watch in 18K white gold set with a round‑cut diamond and 710 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Timeless" watch in 18K white gold set with a round‑cut diamond and 710 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Timeless" watch in 18K white gold set with a round‑cut diamond and 710 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Timeless" watch in 18K white gold set with a round‑cut diamond and 710 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" watch in 18K yellow gold set with 338 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" watch in 18K yellow gold set with 338 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" watch in 18K white gold set with 1 round‑cut diamond and 465 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" watch in 18K white gold set with 1 round‑cut diamond and 465 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Intuitive" necklace in 18K yellow gold set with a round‑cut diamond and 193 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Intuitive" necklace in 18K yellow gold set with a round‑cut diamond and 193 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Infinite" necklace in 18K white gold set with a pear‑cut diamond of 1.01 carat and 210 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Infinite" necklace in 18K white gold set with a pear‑cut diamond of 1.01 carat and 210 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" necklace in 18K yellow gold set with 32 oval‑cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 111.18 carats and 454 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Dazzling" necklace in 18K yellow gold set with 32 oval‑cut yellow beryls for a total weight of 111.18 carats and 454 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Commanding" transformable necklace in 18K white gold set with 463 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Commanding" transformable necklace in 18K white gold set with 463 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - Audacious necklace, in 18K yellow gold set with one pear‑cut orange topaze of 4.23 carats and 3 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - Audacious necklace, in 18K yellow gold set with one pear‑cut orange topaze of 4.23 carats and 3 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" necklace in 18K white gold set with 1 emerald‑cut fancy brown diamond of 4.20 carats, 57 brown diamonds and 1160 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" necklace in 18K white gold set with 1 emerald‑cut fancy brown diamond of 4.20 carats, 57 brown diamonds and 1160 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Passionate" transformable necklace in 18K yellow gold set with an octagon‑cut orange topaze of 29.65 carats, 1 round‑cut diamond, 82 fancy‑cut multicolor sapphirs and 942 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Passionate" transformable necklace in 18K yellow gold set with an octagon‑cut orange topaze of 29.65 carats, 1 round‑cut diamond, 82 fancy‑cut multicolor sapphirs and 942 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" brooch in 18K white gold set with 191 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Protective" brooch in 18K white gold set with 191 diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Timeless" brooch in 18K yellow gold set with a round‑cut diamond of 1.01 carat, 21 fancy‑cut yellow sapphires, 44 round‑cut yellow sapphires and 251 brilliant‑cut diamonds

L'ESPRIT DU LION by CHANEL - "Timeless" brooch in 18K yellow gold set with a round‑cut diamond of 1.01 carat, 21 fancy‑cut yellow sapphires, 44 round‑cut yellow sapphires and 251 brilliant‑cut diamonds

The confidence and strength of the Lion which was so influential in Coco Chanel’s own life has inspired this statement collection, for strong-willed women everywhere who adore fine jewellery.

Colour of Passion: Red jewels for Valentine’s Day

continue reading

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring Harmonious Balance with the Cartier En Équilibre High Jewellery Collection

Each of the En Équilibre hero creations is composed like a character in a story that we can easily follow. Let’s take a closer look… 

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: A Botanical Reawakening with the Chaumet Jewels by Nature Collection

From magnolia blooms to iris petals caught in the breeze, Chaumet’s Jewels by Nature is a high jewellery collection rooted in the way Empress Joséphine romanticised the natural world.

by Claire Roberts

Setting Themselves Apart: 7 Designers Rethinking the Role of the Gemstone Setting

In jewellery making, the setting is often a silent partner—a technical necessity that secures the stones in place while receding into the background. But a new generation of designers is flipping that script, transforming the process of setting gems into an expressive, sculptural and narrative force.

by Claire Roberts

Beauty of Beginnings: Exploring the Potential of Paper with Katerina Perez

If you are optimistic by nature, you may look at a blank sheet of paper and see limitless opportunities for creativity. Recently, my friend and visual artist Ksenia Usacheva approached me about a new ‘blank canvas’ inspired editorial project, incorporating reams of white paper, brushstrokes of colourful paint, and beautiful high jewellery.

by Ksenia Usacheva

Haute Couture 2025: Stepping Inside ‘Caroline’s Universe’ with the Chopard Red Carpet Collection

Let's take a closer look at some of Caroline Scheufele's latest colourful adornments, including our 10 favourite pieces.

by Sarah Jordan

Beauty Shapes Tomorrow: Nouvel Héritage Unveils High Jewels for 10th Anniversary

For French brand Nouvel Héritage, the time has come to unveil its debut suite of five high jewellery creations, each one an ode to its iconic Mood and Latch collections, as well as the soon-to-be-launched Try Me line.

by Sarah Jordan

Incomparable Artistry: The Legendary Story of Beverly Hills Jewellery Designer Martin Katz 

This formidable Californian jeweller has spent decades sourcing the finest coloured gemstones, creating one-of-a-kind jewels, and dressing famous celebrities. Let me tell you more about an incomparable jewellery tour de force…

by Sarah Jordan

Prophecy and Poetry: The Story Behind My Bespoke Pendant by El’eeté Jewellery

Sometimes universal forces align to put the right person in your path at the perfect time. That was absolutely the case when one of my Instagram followers, Elvira Iurova, the Founder of El’eeté Jewellery, contacted me to introduce her unique bespoke jewellery concept.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: The Most Impressive Flower High Jewels that Bloomed in Paris

Floral jewels have long been a hallmark of high jewellery, but at this year’s Haute Couture presentations in Paris, designers approached the motif with renewed focus and technical ambition. Here, we spotlight the standout floral creations from the 2025 shows.

by Joshua Hendren

Haute Couture 2025: Celebrating 20 Years with the Messika Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery Collection 

Let’s take a closer look at the collection, including some of its neckwear highlights, and discover its romantic inspirations…

by Sarah Jordan

Haute Couture 2025: Exploring the Debut High Jewellery Collection of Sahag Arslanian

This July’s Haute Couture Week in Paris was marked with the exciting launch of a new high jewellery brand that bears the name of its founder. Third-generation diamantaire Sahag Arslanian presented his inaugural series of high jewels, drawing inspiration from the power of the sun and the cosmic world.

by Katerina Perez

Haute Couture 2025: Boucheron Explores Shades of Grey with the Impermanence High Jewellery Collection 

With its Carte Blanche High Jewellery collections, Boucheron's Creative Director Claire Choisne has the power to explore whatever fantastical avenue she pleases, which in 2025 centres on flowers and the natural world.

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Elevated Expression:Examining The Jade Dynasty Collection by Austy Lee

Let's hear what he has to say on China's most emblematic mineral…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.