Legacy of Love: The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

Jewellery is a transmitter of memories and emotions through time, which is something that Dubai-based designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani knows all too well. The impact of losing her beloved father encouraged her to follow in his esteemed jewellery-making footsteps, drawing upon Iranian culture, her own global travels, and now, the sights and sounds of the Emirates to create a fantastical and colourful collection of precious jewellery. During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces… 

My devoted readers already know that one of my first questions to every jewellery designer I meet is about the origins of their love for jewellery and Mariyeh Ghelichkhani was no exception. She confessed that she had been designing for as long as she could remember. Perhaps not formally, but after school, she would spend time at her father’s atelier in Tehran, drawing shapes around piles of multi-coloured gemstones and watching the jewellers and silversmiths he employed in action. Mariyeh’s father was a sought-after jeweller and a specialist in bespoke silver items, so it is perhaps not surprising that an appreciation for craftsmanship would seep into her subconscious. As she grew up, the jewellery designer took on more responsibility, including helping manage her father’s workshop for a while, liaising with customers in English, and learning the technical jargon and techniques associated with the manufacturing process. 

Despite this, Mariyeh was keen to see the world and explore new places. This is something that really connected us during the conversation, as I have also changed countries three times. After Tehran, she lived in Dubai, followed by Marbella in Spain, then Istanbul, before living between London and Portugal, always considering what to do next. She pondered the idea of painting, returning to the classroom, or continuing to work as a translator and writer. This period of transition and discovery sadly came to an end, however, when Mariyeh’s father passed away, leaving an incredible hole in her life. However, when we experience loss or hard times, we open up new abilities within us and open the doors to new beginnings. In the case of Mariyeh, her thoughts turned to the legacy of her father’s workshop and the continuation of his creativity, which was simply too vast and important to disappear. 

In her desire to stay connected with her father’s legacy, the jewellery designer started classes in goldsmithing. “I found ideas and designs flowing from me – I just went with the freedom of unrestrained creativity. His memory allowed me to rediscover and reignite my passion for jewellery and beauty. I eventually decided to seriously develop my style and brand in 2024,” Mariyeh told me, while I was looking through her one-of-a-kind whimsical rings and earrings in a jewellery box in front of me.

Any believers in fate reading this will probably be thinking that Mariyeh was always destined to become a jewellery designer. But in my view, this is a journey rather than a destination. She started by sketching her ideas on paper and eventually returned to the workshop, where she honed her skills and rekindled her childhood fascination with gemstones. Only when the time was right did she launch Mariyeh Ghelichkhani, her eponymous brand, which boasts a dreamlike, whimsical aesthetic fuelled by a varied mineral palette. 

Mariyeh’s pieces emerge from a place deep within her imagination, giving them a light, dreamy and fairytale-like quality. As a regular practitioner of meditation and concentration techniques, she can tap into parts of her subconscious mind through visualisation and guided contemplation, typically involving a pathway through a beautiful garden. Having now taught her son to walk this route in his mind, regular characters have emerged, like a frog, dragonfly and ladybird, all congregating around a lovely pool of water. The purpose is to create calmness, clear one’s mind of intrusive thoughts, and create the best possible platform for abundant creativity. 

Nature is indeed a source of inspiration for the Mariyeh Ghelichkhani brand, although what I have noticed and found really interesting is that the designer is not constrained by realism. She’s content to put her own spin on flowers, for example, if it means achieving the most authentic interpretation of what’s in her mind’s eye. A beautiful showcase of this approach can be seen in a fantasy-cut tourmaline brooch, bursting with pearls, multi-coloured gemstones and diamonds in what could be interpreted as a tree or a bouquet of flowers. This piece is also indicative of Mariyeh’s ‘painting with gemstones’ style, including tonal mixes of minerals in abstract combinations. Opals, tourmalines, large pearls and freeform gemstones also appear in her works, including a large aquamarine ring inspired by the surface of a woodland pond. All her creations are united by incredible levels of detail, as well as cleverly constructed layers of colour, from soft pastel hues to sharper shades that draw the eye. 

Mariyeh understands that her jewels may not be to everyone’s tastes, but in fact, she doesn’t want to attract everybody. “My clients are people who have explored various styles and designs but are now seeking pieces that truly stand out,” Mariyeh tells me. Her ideal customers are people with a deep appreciation for the creative process and, I think, an emotional connection to the importance of family, finding oneself and being attuned to a deep imagination. She continues: “What draws them to my creations is not only their distinctiveness and artistic appreciation but also the significance behind each piece, something that resonates personally, rather than merely being expensive, conventional or just fashionable at that moment.”

This is only the start of the journey for Mariyeh and her fledgling brand. She told me in secret (and allowed to share it now) that there is a men’s collection on the horizon, complete with earrings and mismatched cufflinks. She is excited to work with Paraiba tourmalines and Iranian turquoise and explore the possibilities that Alexandrite may bring to her designs. Plus, the designer has ambitions to create a collection inspired by orchids, including a selection of beautiful brooches. “I am focused on cultivating a strong identity that emphasises creativity, uniqueness and emotional connection,” she explains. “I hope to position the brand as a leader in the niche market of meaningful art jewellery. I envision expanding our product offerings to include limited edition collections and customisable pieces, providing customers with even more opportunities for personal expression. Ultimately, the goal is to create a brand that is not only recognised for its craftsmanship but also for the deep connections it fosters between the jewellery and the wearer.”

I am sure that with the eternal encouragement of her father, the family legacy she draws upon, and her own limitless imagination, there is nothing that Mariyeh Ghelichkhani can’t achieve. Watching how her collection develops over time, especially after sampling such beautiful creations for this article, fills me with excitement. Watch this space!