Haute Couture 2025: Celebrating 20 Years with the Messika Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery Collection
It is not uncommon for special milestones to usher in a new era of creativity and confidence at successful fine and high jewellery maisons. At Messika, the arrival of its 20th anniversary has heralded the new Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection that draws inspiration from the beautiful landscapes of Southern Africa and, most excitingly of all, this region’s bounty of precious coloured gemstones. For a brand that is exclusively and successfully devoted to diamonds, this injection of sapphires, rubies, emeralds, spinels, garnets, and onyx, among others, is something of a turning point in its creative journey. Let’s take a closer look at the collection, including some of its neckwear highlights, and discover its romantic inspirations…
Considering what Messika has managed to achieve in 20 years, you might be surprised to learn that the brand isn’t much older. Of course, this success is down to the inimitable Valérie Messika and her team, who have carved a niche in super-cool and audacious jewels with an ‘It Girl’ edge. This is perfectly expressed by the brand’s choice of ambassadors, including Carla Bruni, Kate Moss and Kendall Jenner, as well as its host of famous fans, from Dakota Johnson to Rihanna. Messika could have continued in this vein for another two decades, sitting comfortably in its ‘sweet spot’ of diamond-orientated jewels. We could have anticipated more radiant pieces with bezel, snow and halo-set diamonds, as well as a range of cuts like cushion, pear, baguette and heart. Instead, the Maison has challenged our preconceptions with its latest high jewellery collection - Terres d’Instinct – that channels the natural world and incorporates coloured gems to “break from convention and stride boldly toward new horizons,” according to a media release.
Katerina Perez wears the Messika Incandescence necklace with a fancy yellow pear-shaped diamond of 20.04 carats, surrounded by 37 yellow diamonds and white diamonds in 18k white gold, from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Incandescence necklace with a fancy yellow pear-shaped diamond of 20.04 carats, surrounded by 37 yellow diamonds and white diamonds in 18k white gold, from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
The Messika Incandescence necklace from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection features a 20.04-carat fancy yellow pear-shaped diamond surrounded by further yellow diamonds and white diamonds, set in 18k white gold
In previous seasons, the high jewellery lookbooks we’ve received from Messika tend to focus on the woman – her spirit, her coolness, and her fiery independent spirit. The most striking thing about this year’s offering is its focus on flora, fauna, and the landscapes of the natural world, specifically Southern Africa. It is understandable why Messika would be drawn to this part of the world. After all, the vast majority of the most remarkable diamonds ever discovered hail from this terrain. However, with Terres d’Instinct, Messika is homing in on Namibia, a country that borders Botswana and South Africa, as well as its landscapes, wildlife, and sand-filled colour palette. I am told that most of the diamonds used in this collection were specifically cut and polished in Namibia by Valérie’s father’s company, Andre Messika Diamonds, which really adds to the story.
Katerina Perez wears the Messika Mirage necklace alongside Valérie Messika wearing the Fauve necklace, both from the new Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
The creative language of this collection speaks to the earth itself, the cradle of the diamond and the very essence of our Maison, Valérie Messika explains. In Namibia, I was struck by monumental landscapes, vibrant ochres, unrelenting light, and the majesty of sovereign wildlife. In the face of such untamed beauty, only the present moment matters.
As you might expect, this new collection doesn’t shy away from bold proportions and dynamic, contemporary shapes, especially in its ‘hero’ suite of necklaces. Personally, I like the concept of “chiselled light” that Messika refers to in its collection literature, essentially distilling the contrast of light and shadow off sand dunes and stark desertscapes in diamonds and precious metal form. There’s a great sense of texture in this collection too, which includes 16 sets, some clever transformable pieces, and a range of styles that are more quintessentially Messika, like diamond toi et moi rings and shoulder-dusting earrings. So far, we’ve only seen part one, with the second half due to be unveiled at Paris Fashion Week in September 2025.
Messika Ondara necklace with white diamonds in 18k white gold, from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Akoma necklace with a heart-shaped fancy yellow diamond of 8.12 carats surrounded by further white and yellow diamonds, set in 18k white gold, part of the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Savane necklace with white diamonds in 18k yellow gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Guépard necklace with white diamonds in 18k brushed yellow gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Hypnotic necklace with pink sapphires and white diamonds in 18k white gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Roc necklace with an emerald-cut diamond of 2.0 carats alongside further diamonds in 18k yellow gold, part of the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Hypnotic necklace with spessartite garnets and white diamonds in 18k yellow gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Mirage cuff bracelet with white diamonds in 18k brushed yellow gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Let’s start with the articulated Mirage necklace that echoes the slow drift of sand dunes with undulating segments of brushed gold and sweeps of pavé diamonds. The presence of brushed and chiselled finishes adds depth to the Terres d’Instinct collection, providing the perfect backdrop for a more diverse suite of gems, like pearls, pink sapphires, garnets, emeralds and shield-cut stones. There are also pieces crafted in anodised titanium, helping to make larger silhouettes more comfortable against the skin.
Katerina Perez wears the Messika Mirage necklace crafted with pavé diamond relief in brushed yellow gold alongside the matching earrings, both from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
The most ostentatious piece we’ve seen so far is the Kalahara necklace, which is all about strength, power and star-strewn nights over an unforgiving landscape. The centrepiece is a 34.92-carat fancy intense yellow radiant-cut diamond, flanked by a second fancy-cut fancy yellow gem of 3.61 carats and surrounded by 3,298 diamonds weighing 103.30 carats. What makes this necklace special is its modular design, meaning it can be transformed into a triple-row plastron, a double-row necklace, a choker or a pendant necklace depending on the wearer’s whims.
Messika Kalahara necklace with a radiant-cut VVS1 fancy intense yellow diamond of 34.92 carats and a radiant-cut fancy yellow internally flawless diamond of 3.61 carats, surrounded by 3,298 diamonds with a total weight of 103.30 carats, part of the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
There are two further pieces of note, the Zebra Mnyama necklace and the Fauve necklace. The former pays homage to zebra stripes with contrasting onyx and baguette-cut diamonds in a strong, geometric collar shape. At its heart, two shield-cut diamonds (one D-flawless and the other D-internally flawless) serve as an anchor for the overall architecture, weighing 1.52 carats and 1.50 carats respectively.
Messika Zebra Mnyama necklace with a shield-cut D-flawless diamond of 1.52 carats and a second shield-cut diamond of 1.50 carats, surrounded by baguette-cut diamonds and onyx, part of the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
The Messika Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection is inspired by the natural beauty and landscapes of Southern Africa, especially Namibia
Messika pocket square brooch from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection with white diamonds in 18k white gold
The Messika Mirange necklace from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection is inspired by desert dunes of the Sossusvlei salt pan in Namibia
Messika Mille Feux necklace with tsavorite garnets and white diamonds in 18k white gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika Cascade Victoria necklace with 82.72 carats of white diamonds in 18k white gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
Messika drew inspiration for its Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection from the Victoria Falls waterfall on the Zambezi River, located on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe
Messika Roc ear cuff with white diamonds in 18k yellow gold from the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
The Fauve necklace has a great story behind it, centring on the ferocious power of lions and the deadliness of their claws. The interior surface of the domed necklace has ‘cuts’ in the precious metal as if a wild beast has sunk its talons into the material! On the outer surfaces, more than 2,4491 diamonds shine for a total weight of 70.28 carats, sculpted into an alternating concave and convex shape with contrasting yellow gold.
The Messika Fauve necklace, which is inspired by the power and shape of a lion’s claws, is set with 2,491 diamonds with a total weight of 70.28 carats, part of the Terres d’Instinct High Jewellery collection
There were more pieces on display at Paris Haute Couture Week, including the Divine Enigma set with a 30-carat Zambian emerald and another necklace with a cheetah print in chiselled gold. I have also been told about another facet of the collection – a rainbow-themed suite of nine pieces – that will be exclusively available at the brand’s Madison Avenue store opening in September 2025. Clearly, we have lots to look forward to! And, if this introduction of coloured gemstones is a sign of things to come, Messika will also be bringing us more mineral variety in the future. What’s not to love?
WORDS
Sarah Jordan has specialised in content writing, editing and branded storytelling for a range of businesses, including De Beers Jewellery, Sotheby’s, the Natural Diamond Council and Gem-A. She is also the founder of her own specialist copywriting business, The William Agency.
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