Pinky Rings: A Modern Jewellery Trend Rooted in History

October 14, 2022

By Katerina Perez

8 min read

We often hear that necessity is the mother of invention. This is particularly true in fashion, and even more than one might think in fine jewellery. For instance, let’s take the pinky ring. This piece of jewellery to grace the little finger was not originally created for accessorising purposes. Here, we explain more about this small but mighty jewel…

The origins of the pinky ring date can be traced back to 3,500 BC in Mesopotamia (now Iraq, Kuwait, Turkey and Syria), where illiterate businessmen wore a personalised seal around their necks to help them authorise and approve important documents. Eventually, the Ancient Egyptians adopted this signature system, improving on it by turning the pendants into rings for easy access. More practical than fashionable, these small ‘signet rings’ became integral parts of the day-to-day ongoings in society. Fast forward to the Middle Ages, with silversmithing and stone carving advancements, signet rings became a symbol of wealth among the more affluent members of society. They would have their rings set with precious gemstones to further demonstrate their wealth and social status.

Brent Neale gold, multi-coloured sapphires and emerald Eye Heart U Rainbow Pave Signet ring

Brent Neale gold, multi-coloured sapphires and emerald Eye Heart U Rainbow Pave Signet ring

 Annoushka one of a kind gold, diamond and andalusite ring

Annoushka one of a kind gold, diamond and andalusite ring

 Anita Ko gold, emerald and diamond Pave Snake Coil ring

Anita Ko gold, emerald and diamond Pave Snake Coil ring

 Alexandra Abramczyk gold, multicoloured-sapphires, topaz and tsavorite Bauge Soft Grand Modèle ring

Alexandra Abramczyk gold, multicoloured-sapphires, topaz and tsavorite Bauge Soft Grand Modèle ring

 Cece Jewellery gold, enamel and diamond Pisces Signet ring

Cece Jewellery gold, enamel and diamond Pisces Signet ring

 Darius Jewels gold, pink sapphire and diamond ding

Darius Jewels gold, pink sapphire and diamond ding

 Deborah Pagani gold and pink sapphire Honey Heart Gypsy

Deborah Pagani gold and pink sapphire Honey Heart Gypsy

 Harwell Godfrey gold, multi-coloured sapphires, topaz, amethyst and diamond Chubby Talisman ring

Harwell Godfrey gold, multi-coloured sapphires, topaz, amethyst and diamond Chubby Talisman ring

 lily Gabriella gold, tourmaline and diamond Wave ring

lily Gabriella gold, tourmaline and diamond Wave ring

 LYLIE gold Shield Engraved Signet ring

LYLIE gold Shield Engraved Signet ring

Historically, signet rings were the most prominently worn piece of jewellery amongst men. Queen Victoria’s sons were responsible for making them popular amongst the British nobility in the 19th century. After seeing the German trend of stacking wedding bands and signet rings on the left pinky finger, all four of the Monarchs’ sons brought this tradition to London, where the trend rippled across the upper classes and British aristocracy. They remain a favoured piece in the United Kingdom today. Many young men are seen sporting a 14 or 18k gold ring engraved with their family crest on their left pinky finger.

Model wearing Noor Fares gold, carnelian, yellow sapphire, amethyst, brown diamond, orange enamel and black rhodium Svadhisthana ring, ammolite, ruby, black enamel and gold Muladhara Pinky Ring

Model wearing Noor Fares gold, carnelian, yellow sapphire, amethyst, brown diamond, orange enamel and black rhodium Svadhisthana ring, ammolite, ruby, black enamel and gold Muladhara Pinky Ring

 Mateo gold, sapphire and diamond ring

Mateo gold, sapphire and diamond ring

Venyx World gold, coloured stones and diamonds Moonshell and Star Ring

Venyx World gold, coloured stones and diamonds Moonshell and Star Ring

 Olivia Burton rose gold, tourmaline and jewel-toned crystals Jewel Rainbow ring

Olivia Burton rose gold, tourmaline and jewel-toned crystals Jewel Rainbow ring

 Ouroboros gold and rainbow moonstone Horizontal Oval Rainbling ring

Ouroboros gold and rainbow moonstone Horizontal Oval Rainbling ring

XOIA gold, diamond and gemsonte Pinnacle ring

XOIA gold, diamond and gemsonte Pinnacle ring

 Retrouvai gold, malachite, sapphire and diamond Compass ring

Retrouvai gold, malachite, sapphire and diamond Compass ring

 Tabayer gold and diamond ring

Tabayer gold and diamond ring

 Thomas Sabo gold vermeil and coloured gemstone ring

Thomas Sabo gold vermeil and coloured gemstone ring

 ZEEMOU ZENG gold, amethyst and diamond Eye Cocktail ring

ZEEMOU ZENG gold, amethyst and diamond Eye Cocktail ring

Today, with the easing of social constructs and formalities becoming more relaxed, the fashion of wearing a ring on one’s little finger is no longer limited to demonstrating social class or heritage. Instead, wearing a ring on your little finger, or the colloquially termed ‘pinky ring’, has become a way to express personal style, character and mood. Men and women from all walks of life can be seen sporting them. However, the trend has become particularly popular amongst male artists. From Academy Award-winning actors such as Chris Pine to musicians Harry Styles, Nick Jonas and Bruno Mars, pinky rings can be seen in their daily outfits all over social media platforms.

 Chris Pine wearing a pinky ring

Chris Pine wearing a pinky ring

 Harry Styles a pinky ring

Harry Styles a pinky ring

 Bruno Mars wearing a pinky ring

Bruno Mars wearing a pinky ring

 Nick Jonas wearing a pinky ring

Nick Jonas wearing a pinky ring

To keep up with the demand for this must-have accessory, designers worldwide are getting creative. Household name brands such as Tiffany & Co. have released 18k gold signet ring collections, while independent jewellers such as Glenn Spiro, Carbon & Hyde and Roxanne First are amping up their edge with custom pieces decorated with gemstones and textured metals.

 Roxanne First gold and diamond rings

Roxanne First gold and diamond rings

 Chanel white and yellow gold Coco Crush rings

Chanel white and yellow gold Coco Crush rings

 Carbon & Hyde gold and diamond Marquis Bling rings

Carbon & Hyde gold and diamond Marquis Bling rings

 Tiffany & Co. gold Signet ring

Tiffany & Co. gold Signet ring

 Boodles white gold, rose gold and diamond ring

Boodles white gold, rose gold and diamond ring

 Pomellato white gold, topaz and diamond Nudo Classic Petit ring

Pomellato white gold, topaz and diamond Nudo Classic Petit ring

 Melissa Kaye gold and diamond ring

Melissa Kaye gold and diamond ring

 Margot McKinney high jewellery ring

Margot McKinney high jewellery ring

 Misk gold and diamond Signet rings

Misk gold and diamond Signet rings

 Glenn Spiro gold and diamond Pebble Ring

Glenn Spiro gold and diamond Pebble Ring

Some of our favourites? Foundrae’s yellow gold and ruby Forever and Always a Pair pinky ring is the perfect warm colour pop for everyday wear. For an edgy reinterpretation of the classic men’s signet ring, try Theo Fennell’s oval carnelian signet ring. However, for a real Couture look, we recommend choosing a ring that is gemstone centric. Nour by Jahan’s pink ruby, diamond and titanium pinky ring is the perfect piece of high jewellery, as is Carbon & Hyde’s white gold Bling pinky ring.

 Foundrae gold and ruby Forever and Always a Pair ring

Foundrae gold and ruby Forever and Always a Pair ring

 Theo Fennell gold and carnelian dignet Ring

Theo Fennell gold and carnelian dignet Ring

 Nour by Jahan diamond and ruby ring

Nour by Jahan diamond and ruby ring

 Carbon & Hyde white gold and diamond Bling Pinky ring

Carbon & Hyde white gold and diamond Bling Pinky ring

Contemporary jewellery designer Ashley Zhang has been making pinky rings for her clients for years. Based in the heart of New York City, the California native moved to the Big Apple to study fashion design at Parsons, developing a passion for fine jewellery towards the end of her degree. In her own words: “I think pinky rings are a fun style and slight nod to menswear and unisex style that we are seeing in fashion right now. These rings are often either a signet or a chunkier style ring.”

 Ashley Zhang Pinky Belcher ring

Ashley Zhang Pinky Belcher ring

 Ashley Zhang gold, diamond and ruby ring

Ashley Zhang gold, diamond and ruby ring

 Ashley Zhang gold and opal ring

Ashley Zhang gold and opal ring

So, is the pinky ring here to stay? According to Zhang, they aren’t going anywhere: “Yes! I personally wear a pinky ring on my right hand every day and have been doing so for over five years.”

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