Micromosaic Masterpieces: Sicis Jewels Prepares for Couture Debut

May 17, 2023

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

It seems like only yesterday that I was browsing the new collections of Italian brand Sicis at Haute Jewels Geneva in March 2023. Now, I am pleased to say that the master of micromosaics is debuting at The Couture Show in Las Vegas from June 1-4, 2023. To celebrate this trip ‘across the pond’, I’d like to share with you some of the latest Sicis masterpieces that combine elaborate patterns of colourful tesserae, diamonds, precious gemstones and the signature design style of creative director Gioia Placuzzi. Let’s take a closer look…

Sicis has always been special in my eyes because of its seamless blend of high jewellery with the ancient art of micromosaic tesserae – a technique that involves combining hundreds if not thousands of tiny pieces of stone, glass or ceramic to create a colourful design. Today, the brand is led by creative director Gioia Placuzzi, who channels the complexity of micromosaics into feminine and typically floral jewels bursting with diamonds and gemstones in a host of vibrant shades. At this year’s Haute Jewels Geneva, I was reminded that each tiny piece of tesserae has to be laid one by one to achieve the finished mosaic design… it certainly adds to the wow factor when looking at Sicis’ high jewellery creations!

Sicis creative director Gioia Placuzzi

Sicis creative director Gioia Placuzzi

The brand first exhibited at Haute Jewels Geneva in 2022 and was pleased to return for the 2023 edition. It transformed its space at the Fairmont Grand Hotel into a pop-up concept store, complete with mosaic flowers in pastel shades. Guests were invited to see the Tesserae collection – a mainstay for the brand – with jacketed rings characterised by a central coloured gemstone surrounded by a ‘dress’ of micromosaics. New additions included a piece with a violet sapphire that epitomised the brand’s relationship with uplifting colours. Next, the Nymphalia collection was also on display, which spotlights the colour and shape of butterfly wings. I was pleased to see a new necklace in this offering which perfectly matched a ring and earring set launched last year.

Sicis Butterfly Romance Turquoise parure, including a necklace, ring and earrings

Sicis Butterfly Romance Turquoise parure, including a necklace, ring and earrings

 The Sicis Butterfly Romance Turquoise necklace showcased at Haute Jewels Geneva 2023

The Sicis Butterfly Romance Turquoise necklace showcased at Haute Jewels Geneva 2023

 The Sicis Butterfly Romance Turquoise ring

The Sicis Butterfly Romance Turquoise ring

 Sicis Tesserae jacketed ring with a violet sapphire, diamonds and red micromosaic

Sicis Tesserae jacketed ring with a violet sapphire, diamonds and red micromosaic

But before the brand makes its debut at The Couture Show at Wynn Las Vegas in June 2023, I would like to share with you some of the new pieces that were shown in Switzerland for the very first time. The Nebulosa Supernova suite was one of my favourites in hot shades of red. The necklace, earrings and ring are fashioned like exploding petals in red micromosaic tesserae, paired with flowing lines of orange sapphires and round brilliant-cut diamonds accents.

Sicis Nebulosa Supernova suite with red micromosaic tesserae, orange sapphires and round brilliant-cut diamonds

Sicis Nebulosa Supernova suite with red micromosaic tesserae, orange sapphires and round brilliant-cut diamonds

 Sicis Nebulosa Supernova earrings with red micromosaic tesserae, orange sapphires and round brilliant-cut diamonds

Sicis Nebulosa Supernova earrings with red micromosaic tesserae, orange sapphires and round brilliant-cut diamonds

 Sicis Nebulosa Supernova ring with red micromosaic tesserae, orange sapphires and round brilliant-cut diamonds

Sicis Nebulosa Supernova ring with red micromosaic tesserae, orange sapphires and round brilliant-cut diamonds

Elsewhere, the Incanto set was revealed to buyers for the first time. It comprises a ring, earrings and a necklace decorated with fuchsia, lilac, pink and red micromosaics. The shape is like abstract flower petals, almost akin to the scalloped edge of a seashell. Each curve is accented with round brilliant-cut diamonds and pear- and round-shaped rubellites and kunzites for more pops of colour. In the necklace, we can see how each abstract petal is decorated with a tesserae flower as if we are seeing just a snapshot of a much larger artwork. The final piece of the puzzle – a jacketed ring – offers two ways to wear a raspberry-hued pear-shaped rubellite, either as a solitaire ring or as a ‘dressed’ ring that dominates the finger.

Sicis Incanto necklace with fuchsia, lilac, pink and red micromosaics, round brilliant-cut diamonds and pear- and round-shaped rubellites and kunzites

Sicis Incanto necklace with fuchsia, lilac, pink and red micromosaics, round brilliant-cut diamonds and pear- and round-shaped rubellites and kunzites

 Sicis Incanto jacketed ring with a pear-shaped rubellite surrounded by diamonds, alongside its matching ‘jacket’ of micromosaics and coloured gemstones

Sicis Incanto jacketed ring with a pear-shaped rubellite surrounded by diamonds, alongside its matching ‘jacket’ of micromosaics and coloured gemstones

 Sicis Incanto earrings with fuchsia, lilac, pink and red micromosaics, round brilliant-cut diamonds and pear- and round-shaped rubellites and kunzites

Sicis Incanto earrings with fuchsia, lilac, pink and red micromosaics, round brilliant-cut diamonds and pear- and round-shaped rubellites and kunzites

One of the most elaborate new creations to emerge from Sicis is the Fantasia necklace, which also has matching earrings and a ring. The piece is inspired by colourful fireflies with wings of royal blue and yellow micromosaics lined with diamonds. Falling from each winged creature is a cascade of pear-shaped yellow and pink sapphires that perfectly graduate in colour from soft, pastel shades to deeper, hot pink hues. The curves of the pear-shaped gems continue into the white gold necklace itself, which is made up of marquise-shaped openwork gold links.

Sicis Fantasia necklace and ring with royal blue and yellow micromosaics, diamonds, and pear-shaped yellow and pink sapphires

Sicis Fantasia necklace and ring with royal blue and yellow micromosaics, diamonds, and pear-shaped yellow and pink sapphires

 Sicis Fantasia necklace with royal blue and yellow micromosaics, diamonds and a gradient of pear-shaped yellow and pink sapphires

Sicis Fantasia necklace with royal blue and yellow micromosaics, diamonds and a gradient of pear-shaped yellow and pink sapphires

  Sicis Fantasia ring with diamonds, pear-shaped pink sapphires and blue and yellow micromosaics

Sicis Fantasia ring with diamonds, pear-shaped pink sapphires and blue and yellow micromosaics

  Sicis Fantasia earrings with diamonds, marquise- and pear-shaped orange, yellow and pink sapphires and blue and yellow micromosaics

Sicis Fantasia earrings with diamonds, marquise- and pear-shaped orange, yellow and pink sapphires and blue and yellow micromosaics

Finally, I must mention the Damisa Ice set, which is a re-edition of an iconic piece from the Sicis archives. Here we see the big cat motif interpreted through micromosaic with its three-dimensional body covered in leopard spots of white, black and grey. This is punctuated with bezel-set and pavé colourless and black diamonds extending around the neck and down the cat’s tail in a subtle graduation from white to grey to black. The highlight of the necklace, however, is a beautiful pear-shaped rubellite drop, which adds a pop of colour and draws attention to the leopard’s marquise-shaped red gemstone eyes. The matching ring is equally striking, this time with an octagonal-shaped rubellite between the feline’s claws.

Sicis Damisa Ice necklace with white and black diamonds, leopard spot-inspired micromosaics and a pear-shaped rubellite drop

Sicis Damisa Ice necklace with white and black diamonds, leopard spot-inspired micromosaics and a pear-shaped rubellite drop

 Sicis Damisa Ice ring with micromosaics, diamonds and an octagonal-shaped rubellite

Sicis Damisa Ice ring with micromosaics, diamonds and an octagonal-shaped rubellite

If you are preparing to visit The Couture Show, I recommend stopping by the Sicis booth to see these creations for yourself. They say a “picture is worth a thousand words,” but when it comes to micromosaics, one really must see the workmanship up close and personal. You will find the team and all the latest novelties at Booth #737. I hope to see you there!

Rule-Breakers: The Most Iconic British Jewellers of the 1960s

continue reading

Aquamarine Tales Part I:  Stories of Healing, Connection & Some Truly Extraordinary Gems

I’ve always been captivated by the stories behind jewels and gems, so to celebrate March’s birthstone, I recently took to Instagram and asked my audience to share their most memorable aquamarine tales

by Katerina Perez

Nigerian Soul: AKANO Presents its Vision of Colourful High Jewellery 

In February, I simply couldn’t miss the opportunity to meet Akunna and discover her Nigerian high jewellery company. Here are some of the highlights of our first meeting and the jewels I encountered…

by Katerina Perez

Gemstone Dupes: How to Get the Look of Your Favourite Minerals for Less

We will be exploring gemstone dupes that are stunning substitutes for some of the most collectible gemstones in the mineral kingdom because they mimic the look of these prized stones

by Claire Roberts

Joyful Universe: The Bewitching Dior Milly Dentelle High Jewellery Collection

Victoire de Castellane is back with another high jewellery story inspired by the life and loves of Monsieur Christian Dior, translated directly from the brand’s remarkable archives

by Sarah Jordan

Make a Statement for Less: Incredible Fine Jewellery Under £5,000

We will be showcasing the designers and brands who are exploring brilliant alternatives to costly materials to enable more clients to own a piece of their world

by Claire Roberts

Wise Words: A Curated List of the Best Jewellery Quotes

Here’s a curated selection of the best jewellery quotes to save for the future… 

by Hirshi Sujanti

Ear Lobe Disasters: What To Do About Ripped and Stretched Piercings

Rachael Taylor discovers just how common the problem of ripped and stretched ear lobes is and seeks solutions from jewellers and surgeons

by Rachael Taylor

Museum Worthy: Previewing the Highlights of TEFAF Maastricht 2025

We reached out to the jewellery exhibitors heading to the Netherlands to get a preview of their rarest and most precious creations…

by Sarah Jordan

Sensational Storage: How to Choose the Right Jewellery Box

What types exist, what to look for, which one to give preference to, and how to find the best of the best – for all of this, continue reading…

by Katerina Perez

Arab Deco: Exploring the Latest High Jewellery Collection by Al Zain

Let’s refresh our shared memories of Al Zain through the lens of KaterinaPerez.com and dive into these new creations that are fortuitously timed with the 100th anniversary of Art Deco in 2025…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewellery Obsessed: In Conversation with International Model Farnoush Hamidian

I like to think of this as the first of many articles dedicated to women who are obsessed with jewellery as much as I am

by Katerina Perez

8 Women, 8 Jewels: Female Designers Share their Signatures for International Women’s Day

In honour of International Women's Day 2025, which has the theme #AccelerateAction, we reached out to eight female designers and asked them to share the piece that best exemplifies their design style

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Nature’s Folio:The Boucheron Untamed Nature High Jewellery Collection

Be prepared to feel transported to the French countryside, somewhere in the 19th century, armed with only a graphite pencil and the very earliest monochrome camera…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.