Tantalising Tourmalines: Looking Back at the October Birthstone

October 27, 2023

By Livia Primo Lack

9 min read

As October draws to a close, it’s time to look back at the most beautiful tourmaline creations by some of our favourite designers. Let’s learn more about this multicoloured gemstone and discover why these talented jewellers love working with it via the medium of their most tantalizing tourmaline designs.

Very few gems match the vast colour range of the tourmaline. Available in every hue of the rainbow, from rich reds to light violets, this gem’s colour intensity makes it such a special stone. Discovered in Brazil in the 1500s, tourmaline was often mistaken for other precious gems. Green tourmalines were thought to be the sought-after emerald until the 1800s when scientists could chemically differentiate between the two distinct minerals. Red tourmalines, known as rubellites, were also famously mistaken for rubies, especially in royal jewels. A 255.75-carat gem known as the Caesar’s Ruby was a valued treasure in the Russian royal family and was traded amongst the royalty of France, Russia and Sweden from the late 16th century. However, in 1922, mineralogist Aleksandr Evgenevich Fersman reported its true identity as a rubellite.

Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline earrings

Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline earrings

 Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline rings

Katerina Perez with Assael pearl and tourmaline rings

Secondary to opal in the October birthstone hierarchy, the name ‘tourmaline’ comes from the Sinhalese word ‘toramalli’, which means ‘stones of mixed colours’, because they were hard to identify. Much like their wide variety of hues, tourmalines are said to inspire different positive attributes for those who wear them. They can ignite artistic inspiration, provide self-confidence, and boost determination depending on the wearer. It is for these reasons and many more that the talented designers below choose to work regularly with this special and versatile gem. Here are a few words from industry insiders on why they’re smitten with tourmalines for their creations.

Constantin Wild AI Tourmaline artwork

Constantin Wild AI Tourmaline artwork

Carol Kauffman

Tourmalines have more than 200 shades and represent the diversity of colours found in Brazilian nature. It’s a gemstone that always inspires me because, in addition to its natural beauty, it conveys the soul of our wonderful flora, inspiring me to create the “Secret Gardens” collection.

Elizabeth Gage, MBE

For me, colour in jewellery is synonymous with timelessness. I choose to work with tourmalines for their unique colours that give each of my creations an inimitable and statement quality.

Model wearing Elizabeth Gage rings and earrings in gold and tourmaline

Model wearing Elizabeth Gage rings and earrings in gold and tourmaline

 Elizabeth Gage ring gold and tourmaline

Elizabeth Gage ring gold and tourmaline

 Elizabeth Gage ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Elizabeth Gage ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Sunita Nahata

Tourmalines are an exotic family of gems and come in various shades from different parts of the world. The brilliance and hardness of the tourmaline are high, making it extremely resistant to scratches in day-to-day wear. They are my favourite gems, as I like to play with colour in my designs. Every shade of tourmaline is unique, beautiful and precious.

Model wearing Sunita Nahata rings in white gold and Paraiba tourmaline

Model wearing Sunita Nahata rings in white gold and Paraiba tourmaline

Vanessa Chilton (Robinson Pelham)

Tourmalines have always been a favourite gem of Robinson Pelham. It’s their extensive colour palette, which makes them wonderful to work with, and that’s essential for jewellers who love colour as much as we do.

Model wearing Robinson Pelham Arena rings in gold and tourmaline

Model wearing Robinson Pelham Arena rings in gold and tourmaline

 Robinson Pelham Elixir pendant in gold and Paraiba tourmaline

Robinson Pelham Elixir pendant in gold and Paraiba tourmaline

 Robinson Pelham spider pendant in gold, precious gemstones and tourmaline

Robinson Pelham spider pendant in gold, precious gemstones and tourmaline

 Robinson Pelham Arena ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Robinson Pelham Arena ring in gold, sapphire and tourmaline

Finally, here are a few words from Katerina Perez on why she loves the tourmaline gem: “I love tourmalines for the rich colour palette they offer, with some hues being so exclusive that they have their names like indicolite, rubellite or Paraiba. For those who like to have something truly eye-catching, there are bi-colour and watermelon tourmalines. What makes this stone particularly desirable among collectors are the rare and valuable varieties within the tourmaline group like neon blue Paraibas”.

Alice Fournier Yukon ring in white gold, diamond and Paraiba tourmaline

Alice Fournier Yukon ring in white gold, diamond and Paraiba tourmaline

No matter what shade you love or the jewel you’re dreaming of, tourmaline is an essential mineral ingredient in the fine jewellery recipe. For those born in October, it is an uplifting accompaniment to the play of colour in opals and will help showcase your vibrant personality.

Collins and Sons

Collins and Sons

Ring in rose gold, platinum, featuring a 19-ct pink tourmaline

Ines Nieto

Ines Nieto

Necklace in gold, pearl and tourmaline

Annoushka

Annoushka

Ring in white gold, sapphire, diamond and tourmaline

Noora Shawqi

Noora Shawqi

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

CICADA

CICADA

Necklace in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

DEVI Jewels

DEVI Jewels

Ring in white gold, diamond and carved tourmaline

Jacquie Aiche

Jacquie Aiche

Sophia Dia Inside Out hoop earrings in gold and tourmaline

TASAKI

TASAKI

Flourish necklace in Akoya pearl, morganite, sapphire, spinel, topaz, diamond and tourmaline

Le Vian

Le Vian

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaliine

La Marquise

La Marquise

Pendant in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

Bucherer Fine Jewellery

Bucherer Fine Jewellery

Earrings in gold, diamond and tourmaline

Kaltham's Pavilion

Kaltham's Pavilion

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

ASSAEL

ASSAEL

Earrings in gold, pearl and tourmaline

Alice Fournier

Alice Fournier

Ring in white gold, diamond and Paraiba tourmaline

Assael

Assael

Earrings in white gold, pearl and tourmaline

Hamilton Jewelers

Hamilton Jewelers

Ring in white gold, diamond and tourmaline

Picchiotti

Picchiotti

Ring in gold, white gold, diamond and tourmaline

Neha Dani

Neha Dani

Agapi bracelet in gold, enamel, precious gemstones and Paraiba tourmaline

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