Trend: Catwalk jewellery looks for Autumn / Winter 2018

The catwalks are the first place that the world turns to when seeking out latest trends, and interpreting the zeitgeist in fashion. In recent years couture runways have also begun to feature more and more jewellery in their presentations, and the Autumn / Winter 2018 shows were certainly no exception.

Chunky, masculine chains combine several fashionable themes; statement jewellery, masculine styling and seventies aesthetics. These necklaces with thick, bold chain links were spotted on the runways of Chloe, Miu Miu and Giambattista Valli in precious metals with Perspex and crystal details. The fine jewellery version of these hefty necklaces can be found in Pomellato’s ‘Tango’ necklace, resplendent in 18k yellow gold and set with diamonds. These large, sautoir length chains were styled over layers of clothing for both maximum impact, and practical winter outfit options!

Hoop earrings have been one of the most pervasive jewellery trends of the last year, with broader styles being popular throughout fashion and fine jewellery alike. The latest iteration of hoop earrings is slightly off-kilter and more obscure – think asymmetrical shapes and surreal forms rather than simple, circular rings. Fernando Jorge’s ‘Stream’ earrings fit the bill perfectly; available in jade, chalcedony and brown diamond versions, all on 18 karat yellow gold. A whole host of fashion houses accessorised their Autumn / Winter 2018 looks with unusual hoop earrings, most notably Balenciaga, Gucci and Jacquemus. 

Brooches are a jewellery accessory which are often ignored due to associations with fussiness, and traditionally older generations. Thankfully, this season’s runway presentations saw brooches come back with a bang! Across a myriad of designer outfits at Dolce and Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Dries van Noten and Gucci – brooches were front and centre of the looks. Another signifier that brooches are still a jewellery piece de rigeur is the inclusion of not only one, but two brooches in Tiffany & Co.’s 2018 Blue Book. This catalogue of the finest high jewellery from one of the most iconic luxury brands in the world is a wonderful barometer for trends to come in the world of jewelled novelties. The two Tiffany & Co. brooches – both from the ‘Spring’ line – are resplendent in warm tones of pink and colourless diamonds, combinations of 18 karat rose and white gold with platinum, and one 3 carat orange sapphire. Both feature the form of delicately embellished floral motifs with linear arcs, and this minimal sophistication looks set to be a trend which will translate into next season, and beyond.

Rigid choker necklaces were the order of the day for those who choose the more edgy and futuristic fashion from houses such as Alexander McQueen and Marni – who both presented thick, rigid chokers which sat at the collarbone. These short necklaces afford the opportunity for layering with longer pieces, and a selection of the examples at Alexander McQueen were embellished with large, vivid red and green crystals from Atelier Swarovski and finished in antique silver. Few examples of such sizeable necklaces exist in modern fine jewellery, though Piaget‘s ‘Sunlight Escape’ necklace with an emerald cut sapphire and diamonds is one of them. A similar design style can be witnessed in Fei Liu’s chokers; alternately in 18 karat yellow gold with rubellites, pink sapphires and diamonds, and another with 18 karat white gold, tanzanite, tsavorites and diamonds.

Pearl jewellery has made another resurgence back into popularity in 2018, especially pearl earrings. Baroque pearls are the current favourite choice of fashionistas; subverting traditional conceptions about the staid, uniformly spherical pearls of the 20th century. The perennially chic fashion names Louis Vuitton and Valentino both showcased pearl earrings during their Autumn / Winter 2018 presentations, perfectly accessorising the elegant and ladylike couture of both brands. Pearl earrings are presented in a variety of designs by Nadine Aysoy, who utilises baroque pearls in her fine jewellery collections alongside vivid gemstones.

Fine jewellery and fashion works symbiotically, with one influencing another so that the two are intrinsically intertwined. The commonplace inclusion of jewellery on the catwalks of London, New York, Paris and Milan suggests that there is an upcoming trend for statement jewellery to be considered an integral part of any ensemble.