Trend: Snake jewellery’s unwavering appeal

March 12, 2019

By Jodie Smith

7 min read

The snake is a motif that returns to jewellery time and time again – either as a primitive symbol or an interpretation of the reptile’s intriguing features. A myriad of contemporary jewellery designers have created snake-themed pieces, and humanity has been creating jewelled representations of snakes since the beginning of civilization.

Throughout history, the symbol of the snake has been associated with many meanings. Ancient civilizations such as the Mayans and the Aztecs worshipped snake gods and revered them a representation of knowledge and protection. Snakes were also featured heavily in the myths of ancient Greece and Rome – reviled for their ability to shed their skin, meaning that they were seen as a symbol of regeneration and rebirth. Moving into relatively more modern cultural references, Queen Victoria was truly the first person to bring the snake ring into fashion, after her husband-to-be Prince Albert bought her one for her engagement ring. This resulted in a huge demand for rings of a similar style.

CADAR 'Python' ring and cuff in yellow gold from the 'Second Skin' collection

CADAR 'Python' ring and cuff in yellow gold from the 'Second Skin' collection

Fine jewellery houses continue to create snake themed jewellery, and the allure of this creature doesn’t seem to waiver with the fickle nature of fashion. No matter how many jewelled interpretations there are based on this same theme, each designer conjures collections or jewels that are different in terms of design aesthetic and materials used.

Bulgari

Bulgari’s ‘Serpenti’ collection is undoubtedly one of the most iconic snake designs in jewellery, and continues to evolve year after year. Necklaces and turbogas watches in particular maintain their evergreen popularity, which in part is due to the art deco influence evident in Bulgari’s re-working of scales. The Italian house is one of the few who focus on the elegant head of the snake in their jewels – as well as the winding form of the snake’s body – creating an easily distinguishable silhouette.

Bulgari 'Serpenti' cuff in sapphire, emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Bulgari 'Serpenti' cuff in sapphire, emeralds and diamonds in white gold

 Bulgari 'Serpenti' necklace with sapphires, rubies and diamonds in white gold

Bulgari 'Serpenti' necklace with sapphires, rubies and diamonds in white gold

 Bulgari 'Serpenti' cuff bracelet with malachite, diamonds and rubies in white gold

Bulgari 'Serpenti' cuff bracelet with malachite, diamonds and rubies in white gold

 Bulgari 'Serpenti' necklace in emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Bulgari 'Serpenti' necklace in emeralds and diamonds in white gold

 Bulgari 'Serpenti' earrings with diamonds and emeralds in white and yellow gold

Bulgari 'Serpenti' earrings with diamonds and emeralds in white and yellow gold

 Bulgari 'Serpenti' necklace with diamonds in white gold

Bulgari 'Serpenti' necklace with diamonds in white gold

 Bulgari 'Serpenti' earrings with rubies and diamonds in white gold

Bulgari 'Serpenti' earrings with rubies and diamonds in white gold

Boucheron

The Boucheron’s ‘Serpent Bohéme’ is probably the second most extensive collection dedicated to snake after Bulgari’s ‘Serpenti’. The ‘Serpent Boheme’ is a much more muted and less literal take on snakes, featuring gently engraved golden scales and teardrop shaped gemstones and faceted minerals, though their ‘Adam’ collection is more figurative and realistic. David Webb is another designer who is famed for creating jewellery featuring serpents – as part of the ‘Animal Kingdom’ collection, a brightly decorated enamel snake box encircles a large carved sapphire crystal, with a matching ring that is also embellished with diamonds.

Boucheron 'Adam' bracelet with diamonds in white gold

Boucheron 'Adam' bracelet with diamonds in white gold

 Boucheron 'Adam' bracelet with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Boucheron 'Adam' bracelet with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Boucheron 'Adam' necklace with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Boucheron 'Adam' necklace with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Boucheron 'Adam' earrings with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Boucheron 'Adam' earrings with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Boucheron 'Adam' ring with diamonds in yellow and white gold

Boucheron 'Adam' ring with diamonds in yellow and white gold

 Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ necklace with diamonds in yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ necklace with diamonds in yellow gold

 Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ earrings with diamonds in white gold

Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ earrings with diamonds in white gold

 Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ necklace with rhodolite garnet in yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ necklace with rhodolite garnet in yellow gold

 Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ bracelet with turquoise and diamonds in yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ bracelet with turquoise and diamonds in yellow gold

 Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ toi et moi ring with lapis lazuli in yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Serpent Bohéme’ toi et moi ring with lapis lazuli in yellow gold

Garrard

Garrard has just released a new collection of fine jewellery named ‘Muse’ and dedicated to Queen Alexandra and the Victorian trend for snake jewellery that was started by Queen Victoria herself. The diamond embellished serpents feature kite shaped scaled engraved over white gold, that then curl around yellow and rose gold branches on necklaces, rings and earrings.

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' jewellery from the 'Muse' collection

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' jewellery from the 'Muse' collection

 Garrard 'Signature Serpent' ring from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and yellow sapphires in white and rose gold

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' ring from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and yellow sapphires in white and rose gold

 Garrard 'Signature Serpent' earrings from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and yellow sapphires in white and rose gold

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' earrings from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and yellow sapphires in white and rose gold

 Garrard 'Signature Serpent' necklace from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and blue sapphires in white gold

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' necklace from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and blue sapphires in white gold

 Garrard 'Signature Serpent' ring from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds in white gold

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' ring from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds in white gold

 Garrard 'Signature Serpent' ring from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and purple sapphires in rose and white gold

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' ring from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds and purple sapphires in rose and white gold

 Garrard 'Signature Serpent' necklace from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds in white gold

Garrard 'Signature Serpent' necklace from the 'Muse' collection with diamonds in white gold

Azza Fahmy

Making reference to the brand’s Egyptian heritage, Azza Fahmy has numerous interpretations of snakes in their collections, especially ‘Wonders of Nature.’ From slim snake hoops with ruby eyes, to bold mixed metal snakecuffs and double rings with statement coloured gems, these serpent jewels are timeless. A more obtuse snake jewellery design comes courtesy of Cadar, whose ‘Python’ pieces from the ‘Second Skin’ collection are comprised entirely of faceted yellow gold. The geometric version of snake scales are malleable, with tiny links connecting each component so that the metal sits organically against the skin.

Azza Fahmy cuff bracelet from the 'Wonders of Nature' collection with sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold and silver

Azza Fahmy cuff bracelet from the 'Wonders of Nature' collection with sapphires and diamonds in yellow gold and silver

  Azza Fahmy double finger ring from the 'Wonders of Nature' collection with amethyst, diamonds and rubies in yellow gold and silver

Azza Fahmy double finger ring from the 'Wonders of Nature' collection with amethyst, diamonds and rubies in yellow gold and silver

  Azza Fahmy hoop earrings from the 'Wonders of Nature' collection with rubies in yellow gold

Azza Fahmy hoop earrings from the 'Wonders of Nature' collection with rubies in yellow gold

Pasquale Bruni

Pasquale Bruni’s ‘Look at me’ line is comprised of a ring, bracelet and earrings that are a very literal jewelled representation of snakes made of yellow gold and delicate diamonds. The shape of the snake is another contributing factor to its success in the jewellery world: the winding form means that jewellery can loop and wrap around the wearer’s fingers, wrists and neck.

Pasquale Bruni bracelet from the ‘Look at Me’ collection with diamonds in yellow gold

Pasquale Bruni bracelet from the ‘Look at Me’ collection with diamonds in yellow gold

 Pasquale Bruni necklace from the ‘Look at Me’ collection with diamonds in yellow gold

Pasquale Bruni necklace from the ‘Look at Me’ collection with diamonds in yellow gold

 Pasquale Bruni earrings from the ‘Look at Me’ collection with diamonds in yellow gold

Pasquale Bruni earrings from the ‘Look at Me’ collection with diamonds in yellow gold

Cartier, Damiani, Faidee, Dreamboule, Antonio Seijo and many other jewellers have created their own versions of snake jewellery, and soon we will dedicate a separate gallery of images to show the full spectrum of jewellery designs inspired by snakes.

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