Matte Magic: Vhernier Turns to Black Titanium

November 10, 2021

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

Innovative, unconventional, and contemporary are just some of the words I could use to describe Italian brand, Vhernier, which has once again challenged itself by creating jewels using matte black titanium. Here, I would like to show you some of the new pieces in the Calla Whip and Eclisse collections and share with you the spirit of the brand that continues to find new ways to subvert the status quo of fine jewellery design.

It is often easy to forget one of the fundamental stages in the jewellery-making process: research. Hours, months and even sometimes years of research and development can go into a single creation, especially if that piece requires innovative use of materials or an entirely new technique of craftsmanship. Italian brand Vhernier is especially patient when it comes to envisioning something new and seeing it through to completion. It has a habit of producing interesting and intelligent jewels that are suitable to wear for any occasion and yet never conventional. In fact, one of the words the brand’s Deputy General Manager, Isabella Traglio, uses to describe pieces is “appropriate,” by which she means wearable, contemporary and transitional from one environment or occasion to the next. Vhernier designers achieve this through a keen sense of ergonomics and by blending precious and unusual materials, often in one design.

Vhernier pavé diamond earrings

Vhernier pavé diamond earrings

 Vhernier Mon Jeu chain in titanium with alternating 18k rose gold links

Vhernier Mon Jeu chain in titanium with alternating 18k rose gold links

 Vhernier Mon Jeu bracelet in titanium with sapphire-set links

Vhernier Mon Jeu bracelet in titanium with sapphire-set links

 Vhernier Mon Jeu chain necklace in 18k rose gold

Vhernier Mon Jeu chain necklace in 18k rose gold

Isabella Tragilo explains: “At Vhernier we pay attention to the ergonomics of each jewel to ensure they are a comfortable fit through materials and by shapes.” It’s true that Vhernier is characterised by minimalist design, soft curves, bold dimensions and comfortable construction, which is inspired by the brand’s love of architecture, sculpture and contemporary art. Today, however, I want to discuss the brand’s use of innovative materials, in this case matte black titanium, which is presented impressively in new Calla Whip and Eclisse creations.

Vhernier Blue Velvet necklace in blue titanium with a 30.71 carat tanzanite and 13.94 carats of diamonds

Vhernier Blue Velvet necklace in blue titanium with a 30.71 carat tanzanite and 13.94 carats of diamonds

Vhernier began working with titanium 10 years ago. In 2012, it launched its first one-of-a-kind rings using this unusual material paired with brightly coloured gemstones. By 2016, the brand succeeded in creating its Blue Velvet necklace with ripples of velvety and vibrant blue titanium set with 2,262 diamonds of 14.45 carats. At every stage of its titanium journey, Vhernier has set about not simply using titanium but pushing its boundaries. The result of this, of course, is the matte black iteration – Vhernier’s own alloy of the metal that can achieve an intensely dark and opaque colour instead of the more typical grey.

Katerina Perez wears the Vhernier Eclisse ring in matte black titanium with diamonds

Katerina Perez wears the Vhernier Eclisse ring in matte black titanium with diamonds

 Vhernier Eclisse ear clips in matte black titanium with diamonds

Vhernier Eclisse ear clips in matte black titanium with diamonds

 Vhernier Eclisse bracelet in matte black titanium with diamonds

Vhernier Eclisse bracelet in matte black titanium with diamonds

 Vhernier Eclisse ring in matte black titanium with diamonds

Vhernier Eclisse ring in matte black titanium with diamonds

The monochromatic simplicity and density of the colour is both elegant and statement-making – two aspects that are often hard to capture in one design – while the benefits of titanium as a material means pieces can look robust and feel featherlight.

Vhernier Tonneau pavé rings with black and colourless diamonds

Vhernier Tonneau pavé rings with black and colourless diamonds

The matte black titanium is an innovation that Vhernier has brought to the world of jewellery; it’s a further expression of the brand’s understated aesthetic and of its creative use of unusual materials paired with the classic precious ones, says Isabella Tragilo.

Fans of the brand will recognise the name ‘Calla’ as one of Vhernier’s key collections, which contains pieces crafted in a variety of materials from titanium to rose gold and ebony. The new interpretations – called Calla Whip – revisit the collection’s cone-shaped elements that hug the wrist and fingers in matte black titanium, diamonds and contrasting highly polished rose gold. The Calla Whip bracelet provides a contemporary twist on the wrap bracelet but, despite its three twists, the use of titanium ensures it’s comfortable to wear.

Vhernier Calla and Calla Whip collection bracelets in matte black titanium, set with diamonds

Vhernier Calla and Calla Whip collection bracelets in matte black titanium, set with diamonds

 Vhernier Calla bracelet in matte black titanium with gold

Vhernier Calla bracelet in matte black titanium with gold

 Vhernier Calla Whip bracelet in matte black titanium and rose gold with diamonds

Vhernier Calla Whip bracelet in matte black titanium and rose gold with diamonds

 Vhernier Calla ring in matte black titanium with gold

Vhernier Calla ring in matte black titanium with gold

There’s something about the curves of the Eclisse collection that creates a sense of motion; as if pieces are not ready to end their journey around the contours of the wrist, lobes or fingers just yet. If you love this aesthetic, I would also recommend revisiting pieces in the Trottola collection too, which were injected with matte black titanium back in 2019. 

Vhernier Trottola ring and earrings in black titanium with diamonds

Vhernier Trottola ring and earrings in black titanium with diamonds

While I have your attention on materials, I would be remiss not to mention another alloy that is much-loved by Vhernier – bronze – which you can see in the Coucher du Soleil collection. Faithful to its nonconformist spirit, the bronze that Vhernier uses in this collection doesn’t have the alloy’s ‘classic’ appearance thanks to nanoceramic technology, clever contrasts with rose gold, and a dusting of pavé diamonds. 

Vhernier Palloncino collection rings with pavé diamonds and Transparenze technique

Vhernier Palloncino collection rings with pavé diamonds and Transparenze technique

If we trace the brand’s innovation even further back, there’s the natural stone kogolong, ebony wood, jet and rock crystal in its jewellery archives. Rock crystal is a fundamental ingredient of Vhernier’s ‘Trasparenze’ – a technique of superimposing a piece of rock crystal over an opaque coloured stone to create brightness, brilliance and different colours in the profile and bird’s eye view of a creation. This is used to great effect in the Palloncino collection of mono ear clips, brooches and now rings that are designed to look like balloons floating through the sky.

Vhernier Coucher du Soleil cuff bracelet in bronze with diamonds

Vhernier Coucher du Soleil cuff bracelet in bronze with diamonds

 Vhernier Coucher du Soleil cuff bracelet in bronze with diamonds

Vhernier Coucher du Soleil cuff bracelet in bronze with diamonds

 Vhernier Coucher du Soleil rings in bronze with diamonds

Vhernier Coucher du Soleil rings in bronze with diamonds

Vhernier does not simply take unconventional materials and make them a canvas for luxurious diamonds and coloured gemstones. Instead, the material itself becomes the star of the show, bringing its own depth and dimension to a piece that must follow the brand’s codes of wearability and appropriateness. It is safe to say that a Calla Whip or Eclisse creation is an appropriate addition to any significant jewellery collection!

Every Day Masterpieces: Iconic Motifs in Miniature

continue reading

Make a Statement for Less: Incredible Fine Jewellery Under £5,000

We will be showcasing the designers and brands who are exploring brilliant alternatives to costly materials to enable more clients to own a piece of their world

by Claire Roberts

Wise Words: A Curated List of the Best Jewellery Quotes

Here’s a curated selection of the best jewellery quotes to save for the future… 

by Hirshi Sujanti

Ear Lobe Disasters: What To Do About Ripped and Stretched Piercings

Rachael Taylor discovers just how common the problem of ripped and stretched ear lobes is and seeks solutions from jewellers and surgeons

by Rachael Taylor

Museum Worthy: Previewing the Highlights of TEFAF Maastricht 2025

We reached out to the jewellery exhibitors heading to the Netherlands to get a preview of their rarest and most precious creations…

by Sarah Jordan

Sensational Storage: How to Choose the Right Jewellery Box

What types exist, what to look for, which one to give preference to, and how to find the best of the best – for all of this, continue reading…

by Katerina Perez

Arab Deco: Exploring the Latest High Jewellery Collection by Al Zain

Let’s refresh our shared memories of Al Zain through the lens of KaterinaPerez.com and dive into these new creations that are fortuitously timed with the 100th anniversary of Art Deco in 2025…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewellery Obsessed: In Conversation with International Model Farnoush Hamidian

I like to think of this as the first of many articles dedicated to women who are obsessed with jewellery as much as I am

by Katerina Perez

8 Women, 8 Jewels: Female Designers Share their Signatures for International Women’s Day

In honour of International Women's Day 2025, which has the theme #AccelerateAction, we reached out to eight female designers and asked them to share the piece that best exemplifies their design style

by Sarah Jordan

Feminine Energy: Navigating the World of Jewellery with Marceline Paris Founder Anne-Marie Le Flanchec

This is a woman who knows her own mind and isn't afraid to follow her instincts

by Sarah Jordan

Academy Awards: The Best Jewellery of the Oscars 2025 

As the great finale of awards season, the Oscars is the culmination of all the glamour, colours, trends and finery we’ve seen over the last three months. Let’s take a closer look…

by Sarah Jordan

Cool Collectors: Calming Luxury Jewellery to Alleviate Anxiety 

Rachael Taylor dives into the soothing world of jewels that ease a troubled mind…

by Rachael Taylor

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Nature’s Folio:The Boucheron Untamed Nature High Jewellery Collection

Be prepared to feel transported to the French countryside, somewhere in the 19th century, armed with only a graphite pencil and the very earliest monochrome camera…

by Sarah Jordan

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.