On our Radar: Pearl brands that have our attention

June 30, 2021

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

As is so often the case with exceptional jewellery, the more you research the more you discover. Once I started focusing on pearl designs, I felt like there is a whole other jewellery universe filled with a plethora of pearl-inspired designs. Some are more traditional while others are audacious and edgy, so there is definitely pearl jewellery for everyone out there! And this article proves my point as it features 5 completely different pearl brands from various parts of the world.

I see it as my mission to introduce my readers to jewellers, whether in their infancy or hundreds of years old, that you may not have seen before. When enough brands are on my radar, I transfer the information to an article so that you can feel as excited as I do! During my research for a recent pearl jewellery gallery, inspired by the fact that pearl is June’s birthstone, I was remined of the names listed below, who either re-define traditional pearl designs, focus on specific type of pearls or implement unique techniques when working with them.

Tahitian pearls by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Tahitian pearls by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

State Property

Hailing from Singapore, State Property has devised a unique aesthetic thanks to the combined skills of its founders – Lin Ruiyin, a jeweller, and Afzal Imram, industrial designer. There’s a futuristic, science-inspired story at the heart of the brand’s collections, which creates an interesting juxtaposition with pearls, which are so often considered ‘traditional’ and ‘classical’. The new Arcane collection, for example, is inspired by the architecture of the Byzantine Era, while the Unfold collection is inspired by the lifecycle of stars and how they slowly lose their layers as they die. There are so many creative uses of pearls here, from the Akoyas in the Nemara earrings and Nemara ‘Grand Drop’ earrings to the deep black of Tahitian pearls in the Nemara Grand Noir selection of jewels. For sartorial reference, the Allegory necklace is State Property’s contemporary take on the quintessential pearl necklace… a beautiful layering piece for everyday wear.

State Property Arcane Nemara Noir necklace

State Property Arcane Nemara Noir necklace

 A closer look at the State Property Arcane Nemara Noir necklace

A closer look at the State Property Arcane Nemara Noir necklace

 State Property Unfold Allegory Major bracelet

State Property Unfold Allegory Major bracelet

 State Property Arcane Nemara Grand Noir ring

State Property Arcane Nemara Grand Noir ring

 State Property Unfold Allegory Major necklace with Akoya pearls

State Property Unfold Allegory Major necklace with Akoya pearls

 State Property Unfold Allegory Major Pavé necklace

State Property Unfold Allegory Major Pavé necklace

 State Property Arcane Nemara Grand earrings

State Property Arcane Nemara Grand earrings

 State Property Arcane Nemara Noir earrings

State Property Arcane Nemara Noir earrings

Margo McKinney

Australian designer Margot McKinney is known for her exotically extravagant and richly-coloured jewels that pay homage to her nation’s bounty of pearls and boulder opals, while also ‘borrowing’ coloured gemstones from a host of other countries too. Margot can trace her family history of luxury retail and jewellery design back to 1884, and these generations of experience are evident in her output, including boldly proportioned rings, large gem-set necklaces and colourful tassels that are the epitome of ‘cocktail party’ in my mind. Did you know that Australia is the only place where the silver-lipped Maxima Pinctada oyster grows? In fact, the Australian pearling industry is small, limited and tightly controlled, which means the array of Australian South Sea pearls on the market is very limited. Thanks to her relationships with the only independently owned farm in the northern tip of Australia, Margot has access to some sensational pearls and that inspires her jewellery.

A rare, large Australian South Sea pearl necklace titled "Once in a blue Moon" by Margot McKinney

A rare, large Australian South Sea pearl necklace titled "Once in a blue Moon" by Margot McKinney

Australian South Sea pearl necklace by Margot McKinney

Australian South Sea pearl necklace by Margot McKinney

A model wears a suite of coloured gemstone and pearl jewels by Margot McKinney

A model wears a suite of coloured gemstone and pearl jewels by Margot McKinney

Margot McKinney Lustre necklace with Australian South Sea pearls, sapphires and diamonds

Margot McKinney Lustre necklace with Australian South Sea pearls, sapphires and diamonds

Margot McKinney necklace with naturalle coloured pink pearls and gemstones

Margot McKinney necklace with naturalle coloured pink pearls and gemstones

Margot McKinney golden South Sea pearl tassel necklace with coloured gemstones

Margot McKinney golden South Sea pearl tassel necklace with coloured gemstones

Margot McKinney Sweetheart earrings with naturally coloured pink pearls, heart-shaped spinels, pink sapphires and diamonds

Margot McKinney Sweetheart earrings with naturally coloured pink pearls, heart-shaped spinels, pink sapphires and diamonds

Moksh 

Where there are pearls, there are crucial techniques required to string them and fasten them securely. Moksh has developed its own proprietary ‘Micro Pearl Stringing and Weaving’ method that allows it to create a seamless finish when using very small Keshi pearls. For this reason, it’s pieces are very recognisable, with their own pearl language that’s detailed, delicate and precise. Some of my favourite pieces from the brand use this weaving technique to create beautiful fabric-like lengths of pearls that are supple and flexible. As pearls warm against your skin, I can only imagine how it must feel to wear this many pearls so close to the body! Moksh has 50 years of history in the gem and jewellery trade, but it wasn’t until 2005 that the brand as it stands today was established by Milan Chokshi with the goal of creating contemporary and unconventional jewels for his Mumbai-based clients and those further afield.

Moksh bracelet from the Taantvi Collection with keshi pearls, 18k oxidised gold, rose cut diamonds and blue sapphires

Moksh bracelet from the Taantvi Collection with keshi pearls, 18k oxidised gold, rose cut diamonds and blue sapphires

 Moksh pearl and diamond ring

Moksh pearl and diamond ring

 Moksh pearl and diamond tassel pendant necklace

Moksh pearl and diamond tassel pendant necklace

 A model wears a choker, bracelets and rings by Moksh with pearls and coloured gemstones

A model wears a choker, bracelets and rings by Moksh with pearls and coloured gemstones

 Pendant necklaces and pearl rings by Moksh

Pendant necklaces and pearl rings by Moksh

 A trio of rings by Moksh that feature its micro pearl stringing and weaving techniques

A trio of rings by Moksh that feature its micro pearl stringing and weaving techniques

 Moksh bracelet design with a central coloured gemstone, baroque pearls and diamonds

Moksh bracelet design with a central coloured gemstone, baroque pearls and diamonds

 Moksh Maharani Tops filigree earrings from the Empress Collection with rose cut diamonds and pearls

Moksh Maharani Tops filigree earrings from the Empress Collection with rose cut diamonds and pearls

Les Merveilles du Pacifique

As a specialist in Tahitian cultured pearls, Paris-based Les Merveilles du Pacifique has dedicated its energies to spotlighting the beauty of these silvery-grey, deep greenish-blue and greyish-black treasures. This tonal palette is the ideal springboard for fine jewellery, including 18k yellow gold and white gold creations that are minimally designed to allow the beauty of the actual pearls to shine through. The brand’s name translates to “Wonders of the Pacific,” which includes not only Tahitian pearls but also broader Polynesian culture that so inspired founder Medhi Abdellaoui on his global adventures. One thing I especially love about Les Merveilles du Pacifique is its promise of personalisation – customers can choose the exact shade of their own pearl, whether to suit their skin-tone or their preferred precious metal shade and potentially opt for hand-carved Tahitian pearls too. We are not able to dive for them ourselves, so this is definitely the next best thing!

Tahitian pearl necklace by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Tahitian pearl necklace by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

 A suite of Tahitian pearl jewellery creations by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

A suite of Tahitian pearl jewellery creations by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

 Tahitian pearl necklace, bracelet, ring and matching earrings by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Tahitian pearl necklace, bracelet, ring and matching earrings by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

 Tahitian pearl jewellery pieces by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Tahitian pearl jewellery pieces by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

 Tahitian pearl necklace and earrings by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Tahitian pearl necklace and earrings by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

 Layering Tahitian pearl pendants by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Layering Tahitian pearl pendants by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

 Les Merveilles du Pacifique is a specialist in Tahitian pearls

Les Merveilles du Pacifique is a specialist in Tahitian pearls

 Carved and decorated Tahitian pearls with grey, blue and black colours by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Carved and decorated Tahitian pearls with grey, blue and black colours by Les Merveilles du Pacifique

Mike Joseph 

For a truly unique take on pearls, we need to delve into the mind of Mike Saatji, creative director of Mike Joseph Jewellery, and focus our attention on his Flamingo collection. Pieces are like living, breathing tendrils of diamonds that elegantly wrap around the ear, neck and wrist, coupled with detachable silvery-grey pearls that contrast with 18k rose gold. Next, there’s the Perla collection with pearls that graduate in size to create a sophisticated ‘swag’ around the ear or a stark spiral that encompasses the finger or wrist. With a duo of Couture Design Awards under his belt, Mike is one of those jewellers whose pieces are quickly recognizable and resolutely his – there’s just something about the shape of his ear cuffs and the curves of his necklaces that I can pick out in a crowd. Perhaps that’s the jewellery version of a sixth sense!

Katerina wears a feather, pearl and diamond necklace by Mike Joseph

Katerina wears a feather, pearl and diamond necklace by Mike Joseph

 Mike Joseph necklace with feathers, pearls and diamonds in 18k white gold

Mike Joseph necklace with feathers, pearls and diamonds in 18k white gold

 Mike Joseph Flamingo collection earrings and ring with pearls

Mike Joseph Flamingo collection earrings and ring with pearls

 Mike Joseph Flamingo necklace in 18k rose gold with white diamonds, brown diamonds and a removable grey pearl

Mike Joseph Flamingo necklace in 18k rose gold with white diamonds, brown diamonds and a removable grey pearl

 Mike Joseph Flamingo earrings in 18k rose gold with white diamonds, brown diamonds and removable grey pearls

Mike Joseph Flamingo earrings in 18k rose gold with white diamonds, brown diamonds and removable grey pearls

 Mike Joseph Perla ring in 18k white gold with diamonds and pearls

Mike Joseph Perla ring in 18k white gold with diamonds and pearls

 Mike Joseph Perla wraparound ring in 18k white gold with diamonds and pearls

Mike Joseph Perla wraparound ring in 18k white gold with diamonds and pearls

 Mike Joseph Perla bracelet in 18k white gold with 69 pearls and 1.67 carats of diamonds

Mike Joseph Perla bracelet in 18k white gold with 69 pearls and 1.67 carats of diamonds

In my mind, whenever I wear pearls, I believe they enhance my femininity and poise – I feel a little bit taller and more elegant whenever they’re draped around my neck or dangling from my ears. Even when they’re used in contemporary settings, it’s impossible to forget about the history of pearls, dating as far back as Cleopatra and probably before her reign too. Pearls just have an allure that’s equal parts historic, mythological, and precious.

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