Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

Imagine the place between sleeping and waking when you’re dreaming the most vividly. This is where the most recent Chanel High Jewellery collection exists, at least in my mind, with its fantastical portrayals of comets, wings and majestic lions. The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair. It’s also quite romantic, with the late Patrice Leguéreau and the Chanel Fine Jewelry Creation Studio referencing the soft glow of ‘golden hour’ lighting in the collection’s storytelling. Here are some of the highlights to look out for… 

The ‘golden hour’ is something I’ve only ever heard referred to in the context of movies. It’s basically the short period of time just after sunrise or before sunset when the daylight is softer, redder, and altogether more flattering on Hollywood skins. It’s quite ingenious for Chanel to translate this glowing window of light into a high jewellery collection, noting how the “last rays illuminate faces, caress tanned backs, and instil each movement with soft magic”. The Reach for the Stars High Jewellery collection evokes this fleetingly short play of light in three chapters: Comet, Wings and Lion. Each one is familiar territory for the Maison – representing three of Gabrielle Chanel’s biggest inspirations – and yet the aesthetic that has been achieved feels quite fresh. If I had to guess, I would say it’s the clever blurring of lines between opulence, extravagance, whimsy, magic and fairytale that make this collection sing. It’s unexpected, which is not a word we would normally associate with Chanel. 

Another core theme in the collection is ‘glamour according to Chanel’, especially the interplay between Fresh and American tastes in the early 20th century. As the brand states: “Her structured gowns with winged details, photogenic fabrics and embroideries that wrap around the body and play with light, evening wear with pure lines that prefer the grace of a supple back rather than a plunging neckline; all reveal a vision of glamour as streamlined as it is sophisticated.” 

This helps to explain some of the cascading necklaces on offer in Reach for the Stars that appear to be taken straight from the glitziest red carpet. First, there’s the Dreams Come True necklace in The Comet chapter, crafted in white gold, black-coated gold and natural diamonds (including a solitaire of 6.06 carats). In The Wings chapter, the Wings of Chanel necklace unfurls with diamonds, leading the eye to a 19.55-carat cushion-cut padparadscha sapphire. The long line of diamond-set stars and haloes can be detached, allowing this to be worn as a bracelet while simultaneously wearing the necklace in a shortened configuration. Finally, the Embrace Your Destiny necklace is shaped like a mythological torque with two lion motifs standing guard on either side of the neck, set with pear-shaped diamonds of 5.62 carats and 5.60 carats, respectively. This is definitely not for the faint-hearted! 

Elsewhere in its storytelling, Chanel references the idea of creating “a true jewellers’ dress code”. The implication is that if a jewellery professional had their way, they’d be adorned in “cascades of gems, chokers, open necklaces, between-the-finger rings, large brooches, asymmetrical ear pendants, cuffs and tiaras”. We all have different tastes, of course, but the invitation to be daring, glamorous and non-traditional with our jewellery choices is quite exciting. Pieces that exemplify this are the Dreams Come True, Blazing Star and Rising Star asymmetric earrings, all in The Comet chapter, and the Full Swing head jewel and Free Move belt that sit among The Wings offering. 

These are the two largest chapters, and both contain coloured gemstones to break up the extensive use of natural diamonds. The Comet draws inspiration from the 1932 collection, Bijoux de Diamants, which was the first and only high jewellery collection created by Gabrielle Chanel. The Chanel Fine Jewelry Creation Studio presents nine sets of jewels, all incorporating stars, shooting stars, comets, starbursts and constellations of diamonds. My favourites are the Twin Stars ring with an 11.16-carat cushion-cut sapphire, the youthful Rise and Shine choker necklaces, and the garnets, pink diamonds, sapphires and black spinels in the Five Stars ring series. 

The Wings, which offers the greatest variety of minerals, is inspired by one of Gabrielle Chanel’s mottos: “If you were born without wings, do nothing to prevent them from growing.” Most of the jewels are transformable, articulated and openwork to create a lacelike effect on the skin. Aside from the incredible padparadscha necklace mentioned earlier, there are a host of highlights, such as the Wings of Chanel ring with an 8.15-carat D-flawless, oval-cut diamond and the Sunny Days necklace with a 20.64-carat oval-cut imperial topaz, surrounded by diamonds, garnets, sapphires, spinel and rock crystal. 

Significant suites in this chapter focus on one dominant colour, such as the use of blue sapphires in the After Midnight necklace, ring and earrings and the pink sapphires in the Pink Hour trilogy of pieces. My favourite has to be the After Midnight necklace, which boasts an oval-cut sapphire of 4.85 carats, a framework of diamonds in white gold, and cascading lines of sapphire and tanzanite beads. What’s especially striking about this chapter is the contrast between cool and warm mineral palettes. For example, there are crisp combinations of white diamonds and white gold in the Free Move set versus romantic pink gold and ruby pieces in the Wild at Heart series. It feels as if Chanel is attempting to cater to every taste and skin tone here, which is nice to see. 

Finally, The Lion chapter pays homage to Chanel’s astrological sign, which she had emblazoned onto the buttons of her iconic tweed suits (it has also been the emblem of Chanel Haute Joaillerie since 2012). In the Reach for the Stars collection, the Creation Studio has imagined two interpretations: the first shows the feline’s head facing towards us, its mane surrounded by stars to form a sparkling medallion. The second, more sculpted concept, depicts the lion in profile, almost as if it is carved into the side of a historic building or sat atop an ancient marble pillar. 

Highlights include the Embrace Your Destiny ring with a 10.15-carat, pear-shaped D-flawless diamond, set in 18k white gold, the Follow Your Heart asymmetrical earrings with an oval-cut 5.49-carat red spinel, moonstones, rubies, further spinels and diamonds in platinum, and the incredible Sky is the Limit brooch with a fancy vivid yellow pear-shaped diamond of 2.03 carats set in white gold, yellow gold, and platinum.

This is a collection that has warranted a lot of careful thought and planning from the Chanel Fine Jewelry Creation Studio team. There are myriad things to consider, like the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel, her personal motifs, the impact of Hollywood, the essence of the ‘golden hour’, and so on… it feels like Chanel has really stepped up its high jewellery game. Now, if only we could get our hands on some of these magnificent pieces in real life, perhaps then we could live our red-carpet fantasies, even if that’s only for fifteen minutes.