Eternal Motifs: The Icons Embedded in the DNA of Jewellery Maisons
In jewellery, certain motifs do more than decorate—they hold memories, emotions and the unmistakable signature of a Maison’s hand. Some designs are instantly recognisable: Bvlgari’s sinuous Tubogas, Van Cleef & Arpels’ lucky Alhambra, Tiffany & Co.’s joyful Bird on a Rock. Even when we can’t recall their name, we remember their form. Today, many Maisons are revisiting these House emblems, giving them new energy and relevance through fresh interpretations of storied designs so that what is familiar suddenly feels new again.
In recent years there has been a quiet yet confident revival of heritage motifs across fine jewellery collections, with Maisons looking inwards to rediscover the shapes and symbols that are central to their DNA. Below, I’ve gathered some of the most beautiful examples of how contemporary design and craftsmanship are carrying these timeless icons forwards into a new era of style.
The Evolution of Boucheron’s Arrow Motif
Sleek, directional and precise, the arrow has appeared in Boucheron’s design vocabulary since the 1860s, featuring on everything from brooches to bold Art Deco jewels. The arrow’s beauty lies in its dual meaning: a symbol of love when drawn by Cupid, and of strength and determination when worn as armour. In the new Flèche collection, Boucheron reinterprets this familiar form with a strikingly modern spirit. Crafted in white gold and diamonds, each piece shoots a flash of light across the skin. A brooch becomes a gleaming line of energy, while a ring captures that same sense of motion through its asymmetric design, wrapping around the finger before shooting upwards in a burst of light. Earrings, meanwhile, fall as elegant shafts of brilliance, cutting through the air like arrows in flight. Minimal, dynamic and full of intent, Flèche shows that the most familiar forms can still carry extraordinary power.
An arrow, the subject of Boucheron's new Flèche collection, has appeared in the Maison's design vocabulary since the 1860s
Boucheron Flèche diamond choker in 18k white gold.
Dynamic and full of intent, each piece in the Flèche collection shoots a flash of light across the skin
The two brooches in the Flèche collection include an XXL model
The arrow has been part of Boucheron’s creative repertoire since 1860
The Timeless Elegance of Wheat at Chaumet
Among Chaumet’s many signatures, none feels more emblematic than wheat, a motif that has graced the Maison’s creations since the days of Empress Joséphine. What began as a simple ear of grain has evolved into a metaphor for life, light and renewal, expressed through countless jewels over more than two centuries. In the L’Épi de Blé collection, this symbol of abundance is reinterpreted with exquisite finesse: the golden stalks ripple with movement, with each diamond-set ear glowing as if brushed by sunlight. What makes these pieces remarkable is the emotion they convey—the warmth of summer, the promise of growth and the luxury of nature, distilled into .
A favourite of Empress Joséphine, the wheat motif is a signature emblem of Maison Chaumet
L’Épi de Blé de Chaumet diamond necklace in 18k yellow gold
Chaumet’s L’Épi de Blé jewels feature lifelike stalks of wheat, with grains of shimmering diamonds
The wheat motif is an ancient symbol of fertility and abundance
Épi de Blé de Chaumet diamond tiara in 18k yellow gold
The Spiralling Genius of Bvlgari’s Tubogas
Few techniques embody Bvlgari’s daring spirit quite like Tubogas. Originally inspired by industrial gas piping, this ingenious method transforms interlocking bands of precious metal into a flexible, fluid coil—a triumph of both engineering and elegance. The collection grew this September with nine new Tubogas creations that reveal just how deeply embedded the motif remains in the House’s design vocabulary. From petite hoops and sleek rings to vibrant Alta Gamma designs in rubellite and malachite, each piece retains the bold geometry of the originals while refining their proportions for everyday wear.
Bvlgari's Tubogas technique made its debut in 1948 as the bracelet for the very first Serpenti jewellery watch
Bulgari
Bulgari
Bvlgari Tubogas hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold
Bulgari
Bulgari
The Bvlgari Tubogas Black Eagle choker in DLC coated white gold with diamonds, inspired by the mythic bird said to be a messenger of the gods in ancient mythology
Bulgari
Bulgari
Unveiled this autumn: a a new Tubogas Alta Gamma necklace in 18k pink gold, set with a cabochon pink rubellite and inlaid with malachite
Bulgari
Bulgari
Bvlgari Tubogas necklace in 18k yellow gold, with geometric, diamond-set and black onyx studs
Bulgari
Bulgari
Bvlgari Tubogas diamond ring in 18k yellow gold
The Soaring Elegance of Tiffany & Co.’s Bird on a Rock
Few motifs embody Tiffany & Co.’s close creative partnership with Jean Schlumberger like Bird on a Rock. First introduced in 1965, this emblem of joy and imagination has become one of the most recognisable creations in jewellery history. Today, Chief Artistic Officer Nathalie Verdeille pays tribute to the House’s celebrated bird with a new collection that reinterprets its essence through the wing. For over two years, Tiffany’s designers studied birds in motion, capturing their anatomy in brilliant diamonds and platinum for new fine jewellery creations, and in vibrant tanzanite and turquoise for high jewellery. Decades on, these Bird on a Rock jewels reaffirm Tiffany’s gift for transforming heritage designs into modern-day icons.
Tiffany & Co.'s Bird on a Rock is one of the 20th century’s most revered jewellery designs
Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock high jewellery diamond necklace in platinum and 18k yellow gold, set with a Fancy Intense Yellow diamond of over 9 carats
Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock high jewellery diamond necklace in platinum and 18k yellow gold, set with a 12 carat oval tanzanite
The high jewellery necklace is accompanied by a diamond and tanzanite bracelet
Bird on the Rock tanzanite and diamond earrings complete the high jewellery suite
Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock pendant in 18k yellow gold and platinum, with a cabochon turquoise over 16 carats, diamonds and a ruby
Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock brooch in 18k yellow gold and platinum, with a 24 carat cabochon turquoise, diamonds and rubies
Tiffany & Co. Bird on a Rock wrap ring in 18k yellow gold and platinum, with a 11.50 carat cabochon turquoise, diamonds and rubies
The Delicate Poetry of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Flowerlace
Flowers have been at the heart of Van Cleef & Arpels’ identity since its founding in 1906, from the first Marguerite clip in 1907 to the countless nature-inspired jewels that followed. The new Flowerlace collection continues this perpetual bloom, drawing inspiration from the openwork floral clips of the 1930s that translated the delicacy of lace into precious metal. Here, a corolla’s outline becomes an intricate lattice of gold and diamonds, its petals curved and lifted to evoke lightness and motion. Beaded pistils and pavé details add subtle texture and brilliance, while transformable designs reflect the Maison’s enduring ingenuity. A meeting of past and present, Flowerlace captures the eternal femininity of flowers that is so central to Van Cleef & Arpels’ story.
The new Flowerlace collection captures the eternal femininity of flowers that is so central to Van Cleef & Arpels’ story
The Flowerlace jewels sketch the outline of a flower in 18k yellow gold and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace ring and earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace pendant and earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Flowerlace between the finger ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds
Nature has been a major source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels ever since the first Marguerite clip debuted in 1907
The Power of Chopard’s Cube
Since its launch in 1999, Chopard’s Ice Cube collection has shown how a single geometric form can become an abiding emblem of elegance. Inspired by the crisp precision of a cube—a shape that reflects light from every surface, this year’s new Ice Cube Joaillerie creations push the concept further, exploring modularity and volume across necklaces, bracelets, earrings and brooches. Each facet is mirror-polished to catch and refract light, while pavé-set interpretations introduce a contrast between sheen and sparkle. Crafted in 18k ethical gold, the collection reflects Chopard’s commitment to sustainable luxury as much as to design purity, turning simplicity into statement.
Precision and geometry have defined Chopard’s Ice Cube collection since its debut in 1999
Chopard
Chopard
Chopard Ice Cube diamond drop earrings in 18k ethical white gold
Chopard
Chopard
Chopard Ice Cube six-row diamond bracelet in 18k ethical white gold
Chopard
Chopard
Chopard’s latest designs play with the dimensionality of its signature cubes
Chopard
Chopard
Chopard Ice Cube two-row diamond bracelet in 18k ethical white gold
Chopard
Chopard
Chopard Ice Cube two-row diamond bracelet in 18k ethical yellow gold
What’s most striking about these motifs—whether a cube, a wing, a sheaf of wheat or the curve of a petal—is how something so simple can become so deeply entwined with a Maison’s identity. What began as a familiar form, drawn from nature or everyday life, has, through reinvention, evolved into an icon. Decade after decade, these designs have been refined, scaled and reinterpreted, yet their essence remains unchanged. That lasting relevance is what defines great jewellery design: the ability of a single shape to hold history, emotion and artistry within its form.
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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