Both Gübelin Jewellery and Parmigiani Fleurier are globally recognised brands that are appreciated for their shared values of innovation, authenticity, creativity and artisanship. When two important houses such as these amalgamate their creative forces, spectacular achievements in gemmology, horology, and jewellery design are bound to materialise. In this case, the partnership resulted in two limited edition jewels that continue Gübelin’s ‘Glowing Ember’ line, and the ‘Tonda 1950 Gübelin’ timepiece.
When looking for inspiration for these jewels, Gübelin have yet again chosen to turn to ruby and its inner world. Creative teams from both houses referred to the photomicrography of an exceptional red corundum. This specialist photograph reveals the inclusions inside the gem, which were formed by a drop of basaltic melt, and then became trapped in the growing ruby crystal. The patterns that appear were then interpreted as two interweaving ovals, and these minimalistic shapes formed the basis of the jewellery design and embellishment of the watch dial.
“In the course of our collaboration, we shared our inspiration with Parmigiani Fleurier and together immersed ourselves in the gems. The results were creations that interpret the inner beauty of the ruby while harmonising perfectly”, says Raphael Gübelin, President of the renowned family-owned firm.
The design of the bracelet and earrings consists of several interlocking hoops, resulting in a modern and dynamic feel, making the jewels at once feminine and voluminous. Individual loops are connected using fine links which provide flexibility and comfort, and the levity of the pieces belies their bold form - these concentric circles centre on the rubies themselves, drawing the observer's eye to them. The pavé set diamonds add a gentle sparkle and lightness to the creations, with Gübelin Jewellery’s design team explaining: “the asymmetrical and playful arrangement makes a focal point of the rubies.”
The ‘Tonda 1950 Gübelin’ from Parmigiani Fleurier is a more feminine version of this traditional watch model. The rose gold bezel is set with 84 rubies, a central ruby is affixed to the mother-of-pearl dial, and a cabochon cut ruby is also found on the crown of this timepiece. Anne-Laure Parmigiani, who designed the timepiece, comments: “drawing inspiration from the inner world of the ruby was a fascinating experience. The result is a feminine timepiece that intuitively reflects the refined elegance of the pieces from Gübelin Jewellery.”
The sapphire crystal case-back reveals the ‘Côtes de Genève’ decorated movement displaying the red oscillating weight, while a ruby-red alligator skin watch strap made by Hermès and embellished with a rose gold pin buckle is the final flourish of the ruby tributes within this timepiece.
Collaborations such as these can provide not only fresh artistic inspiration for established jewellery and watchmaking houses, but also offer a renewed vigour in their designs. Although this line is a departure from Gübelin Jewellery’s former creations; it maintains the brand’s exceptional standards of jewellery making and celebrates the inner world of gemstones, above all else.