Unearthing Treasure: Behind the Scenes at Jogani

July 28, 2023

By Katerina Perez

8 min read

In Silver Lake, California, gemstone aficionados have come to recognise one place as a destination for hidden treasure: the Jogani Gallery. Founded by Anup Jogani, an expert in rare diamonds and precious stones, in 2006, this space is a destination for unusual, antique and nuanced creations and serves as an exhibition venue, a showcase for designer brands, and a celebration of jewellery art. Here, I’d like to take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of this remarkable place and introduce you to the man behind the curtain…

Anup Jogani knows better than most about the allure of the rare and the unusual – this is something I have understood for many years since we first connected on Instagram in 2015. At that time, Anup was one of those unique people who showcased rare old-mine cut diamonds and unconventional coloured gemstones for true connoisseurs on his account while most gemstone dealers focused on a more commercial selection.

Anup Jogani

Anup Jogani

It was evident then, as it is evident now, that Anup seeks the most extraordinary gemstones and diamonds that captivate both jewellery trade professionals and collectors alike. Ask him, and he’ll tell you his specialism is unearthing hidden treasures and discovering pieces with exceptional provenance that go beyond the norm. He’s certainly not afraid to hunt through an estate sale, visit a pawnshop or frequent local auctions to find the kind of antique pieces that make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up!

The interior of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles

The interior of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles

 The expansive and Italian-inspired interior of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles

The expansive and Italian-inspired interior of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles

 The Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, serves as a showroom, event space, and a community meeting point

The Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, serves as a showroom, event space, and a community meeting point

 The exterior of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles has a traditional Spanish Californian vibe

The exterior of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles has a traditional Spanish Californian vibe

 The Italian-inspired alfresco deck on the rooftop of the Jogani Gallery  in Silver Lake, Los Angeles

The Italian-inspired alfresco deck on the rooftop of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake, Los Angeles

 The rooftop deck of the Jogani Gallery is the perfect place to host events and entertain clients

The rooftop deck of the Jogani Gallery is the perfect place to host events and entertain clients

 Enjoying the Los Angeles sunshine on the Italian-inspired rooftop deck of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake

Enjoying the Los Angeles sunshine on the Italian-inspired rooftop deck of the Jogani Gallery in Silver Lake

The best place to see this mission statement in action is at the Jogani Gallery which I personally visited this May. I would describe it as a trove of bejewelled finds and mineral specimens nestled in the residential neighbourhood of Silver Lake in Los Angeles, California. Yes, it is a showroom and a place for buying, but it is so much more… an event space, a community meeting point, and a place for trade partners to showcase their own wares. “It is different, but everything about me and the brand is different,” Anup Jogani tells me as we discuss his trajectory from gem dealer to gallery owner. “The gallery was an unwavering need for me to express myself artistically. I have built a space that can be home to artists, designers, collectors and enthusiasts alike and a place to work where my mind can be free from the dystopian nature of downtown.”

An Ancient Greece-inspired Panjshir emerald cabochon ring in yellow gold in the Jogani collection

An Ancient Greece-inspired Panjshir emerald cabochon ring in yellow gold in the Jogani collection

To say that a gallery space was always at the top of Jogani’s agenda isn’t quite true. When he first entered the world of precious gemstones aged 25, he was more interested in photographing the stones he encountered and trying to “uncover the story each one had to tell”. But he found within himself an “inherent knack for treasure hunting” that was only heightened by an interest in antiquity and esoteric finds. He later learned the delicate art of gemstone cutting and taught himself to appreciate the “intricate dance between light, facets and the innate characteristics of each gem”. Slowly but surely, he found a niche combining history and art with nature’s colourful raw materials, fuelled by “late nights filled with dedication and discovery”. Along the way, he earned the respect and admiration of his peers in the trade and created his own place in the market. This is where the Jogani brand was born.

  A pair of antique cushion-cut Kashmir sapphires with a total weight of 10.23 carats, available at the Jogani Gallery

A pair of antique cushion-cut Kashmir sapphires with a total weight of 10.23 carats, available at the Jogani Gallery

 A 42.92 carat marquise-cut ‘caramelized sugar’-coloured diamond (GIA Certified), available at the Jogani Gallery

A 42.92 carat marquise-cut ‘caramelized sugar’-coloured diamond (GIA Certified), available at the Jogani Gallery

 A 10.99 carat unheated Burmese sapphire sugarloaf cabochon, available at the Jogani Gallery

A 10.99 carat unheated Burmese sapphire sugarloaf cabochon, available at the Jogani Gallery

 A pair of step-cut diamonds of 7.03 carats and 7.70 carats, available at the Jogani Gallery

A pair of step-cut diamonds of 7.03 carats and 7.70 carats, available at the Jogani Gallery

 A collection of Montana sapphires with a total weight of 8.17 carats, available at the Jogani Gallery

A collection of Montana sapphires with a total weight of 8.17 carats, available at the Jogani Gallery

 A 7.38 carat step-cut octagon-shaped loose diamond, available at the Jogani Gallery

A 7.38 carat step-cut octagon-shaped loose diamond, available at the Jogani Gallery

When I arrived at the Jogani gallery, I first noticed the colours (evocative of the old Spanish Californian style) and the original windows. Inside, there’s an inviting antique air about the décor, with warm wood accents and a hint of retro furnishings. On the roof, an Italian-inspired alfresco deck makes the most of the Los Angeles sunshine and provides a fantastic place for events. An interior private viewing room also harks back to 18th-century Italy in terms of decorative direction, and this is where we filmed our reel about the gallery.

Jogani necklace with a 22.36 carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald in 20k gold

Jogani necklace with a 22.36 carat cushion-cut Colombian emerald in 20k gold

All these ingredients create the perfect backdrop for running regular trunk shows with third-party designer-makers who align with the Jogani ethos of artistry, history, rarity and natural beauty. For his recent event in May, Anup handpicked Andy Lif for his “spectacular use of enamel,” Susan Cohen for her pairing of geometric gemstones with antique-inspired motifs, and Susana Grau, for her “spectacularly set and innovative gemstones”. He adds: “Everyone we have curated brings something so special to the gallery. I want to educate more collectors and potential collectors on how to look at gems as a wonderful asset class and make sure they learn from my experience! Ultimately, I want the gallery to be a home for the artistically minded – from our trade to curious onlookers and everyone in between.”

 Jogani ring with a 4.06 carat flat cushion-cut diamond set in platinum

Jogani ring with a 4.06 carat flat cushion-cut diamond set in platinum

 Jogani ring with a 1.20 carat Colombian step-cut emerald set in a Renaissance-inspired engraved band of 18k yellow gold

Jogani ring with a 1.20 carat Colombian step-cut emerald set in a Renaissance-inspired engraved band of 18k yellow gold

 Jogani ring with an octagon-shaped 2.28 carat step-cut Burmese ruby in an eight-claw rose gold setting

Jogani ring with an octagon-shaped 2.28 carat step-cut Burmese ruby in an eight-claw rose gold setting

 Jogani necklace with 10.40 carats of oval-shaped Padparadscha sapphires in 18k rose gold and platinum

Jogani necklace with 10.40 carats of oval-shaped Padparadscha sapphires in 18k rose gold and platinum

 Jogani ring with a 10.97 carat step-cut Colombian emerald in 20k gold

Jogani ring with a 10.97 carat step-cut Colombian emerald in 20k gold

 Jogani ring with a 2.12 carat lozenge-shaped step-cut diamond in a Renaissance revival-inspired 18k white gold setting

Jogani ring with a 2.12 carat lozenge-shaped step-cut diamond in a Renaissance revival-inspired 18k white gold setting

 Jogani necklace with 22 carats of sapphires in 18k gold

Jogani necklace with 22 carats of sapphires in 18k gold

 Jogani three-stone ring with a central Padparadscha sapphire of almost 7.38 carats, set with two rubies in yellow gold

Jogani three-stone ring with a central Padparadscha sapphire of almost 7.38 carats, set with two rubies in yellow gold

 Jogani Victorian-inspired ring with a 3 carat flat cushion-cut diamond and unheated Burmese rubies in platinum

Jogani Victorian-inspired ring with a 3 carat flat cushion-cut diamond and unheated Burmese rubies in platinum

 Jogani Victorian-inspired 17.62 carat cushion-cut diamond necklace in platinum

Jogani Victorian-inspired 17.62 carat cushion-cut diamond necklace in platinum

Although I have introduced Anup Jogani to you as a gem connoisseur and dealer, it is important to mention that he creates his own jewellery, too, in a very particular style, although in small quantities. Each design is gem-lead and aims at highlighting the beauty of the centre stone. Going through the pieces, I noticed that Anup has a particular passion for Padparadscha sapphires, which require a level of cutting expertise to find the “harmony between pink and orange to strike the perfect chord”. He also loves Burmese rubies, Paraiba tourmalines, antique-cut diamonds with flat proportions, thin girdles and high crowns, and the “velvety goodness” of Kashmir sapphires.

The Jogani website is a destination for rare and unusual jewels

The Jogani website is a destination for rare and unusual jewels

Many of the jewels that I have seen are available on Jogani website, which is a hub of everything the brand stands for: covetable investment-worthy gems and antique-style designs that evoke memories of the past. Take, for example, a Victorian-style eternity ring with five unheated Burmese rubies leading the eye to a pigeon’s blood colour ruby at the centre. With a total weight of 3.10 carats, these octagonal gems are secured in warm 18k yellow gold with a talon claw setting.

Jogani Victorian style ring with five unheated ‘pigeon’s blood’ Burmese rubies of 3.10 carats total, set in 18k gold

Jogani Victorian style ring with five unheated ‘pigeon’s blood’ Burmese rubies of 3.10 carats total, set in 18k gold

More special pieces that might speak to you on the Jogani website are an Art Deco-inspired ring with a pristine 7.12-carat portrait-cut champagne-coloured diamond, for example. I personally love the ring with two elongated step-cut emeralds (totalling 2 carats) in 20k rose gold. A handmade portrait-cut and oval-shaped unheated pink Burmese sapphire ring of 2.14 carats is another favourite, especially thanks to its 18k gold cigar band-style shank with decorative enamel. And how can I forget a 4.13 carat Old Mine cut diamond with a natural fancy deep yellow colour, set in 18k gold? It exhibits strong fluorescence when exposed to ultraviolet light, hence the ‘lemon-lime’ name that Jogani has chosen for the piece. The design itself and its collet setting are inspired by the Georgian era, from 1714 to 1830. This was a popular choice of the time as it allowed the glow of candlelight to shine through a stone and enhance its radiance.

 Jogani Art Deco-inspired ring with a 7.12 carat portrait-cut diamond and two step-cut emeralds in 20k rose gold

Jogani Art Deco-inspired ring with a 7.12 carat portrait-cut diamond and two step-cut emeralds in 20k rose gold

 Jogani handmade cigar band ring with a 2.14 carat oval-shaped portrait-cut pink Burmese sapphire and enameled shank in 18k gold

Jogani handmade cigar band ring with a 2.14 carat oval-shaped portrait-cut pink Burmese sapphire and enameled shank in 18k gold

 Jogani ring with a 4.13 carat ‘lemon-lime’ natural fancy deep yellow diamond with an old mine cut, set in 18k gold

Jogani ring with a 4.13 carat ‘lemon-lime’ natural fancy deep yellow diamond with an old mine cut, set in 18k gold

“Confidence and sheer craziness can sometimes be mistaken for one another! In all seriousness, there is safety in building something beautiful in a beautiful neighbourhood in a desirable city,” Anup told me when I asked what the future of the gallery looks like in his eyes. If you are searching for an oasis of precious gemstones and rare fine jewellery creations in the hubbub of Los Angeles, this is a tempting place to start.

Please visit www.jogani.com for more details on trunk shows and to view the collection.

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