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Paris Haute Couture Week 2019: High jewellery on the catwalks
Each January, Paris Haute Couture week showcases the very best fashion shows from a host of exceptional designers. By combining the best of both worlds, renowned couturiers create the epitome of glamour at high fashion presentations – and this season is no exception.
Bulgari // Ashi Studio
The Lebanese brand Ashi Studio’s ‘Letters from Margaret’ Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2019 runway combined voluminous dresses in pink, black and white with some classic designs from Bulgari’s ‘Heritage’, ‘High Jewellery’ and ‘Parentsi’ collections. Described by Bulgari as being “a unique collaboration of dramatic designs, impeccable craftsmanship and brazen femininity”, these red carpet ready ensembles were elevated to elegance with the dramatic jewellery and sumptuous colours of gemstones that Bulgari is known for. Show-stopping full bib necklaces brimming with vivid sapphire cabochons, bold, retro gold chain links embellished with diamonds, and colourful pearls dappled through sautoir necklaces – all of them complemented Ashi Studio’s gowns. The bold volumes and colours on the catwalk simultaneously communicated the unconventional spirit of both the jewellery maison and the couture designer.
Bulgari ‘High Jewellery’ collection necklace at the Ashi catwalk presentation with rock crystal, 26.84ct cushion Sri- Lanka sapphire, Akoya pearls, 30.97ct emerald beads, 220.35ct sapphire beads and diamonds in platinum
Bulgari necklace at the Ashi catwalk presentation with fancy colour sapphires, emeralds and diamonds in yellow gold
Bulgari necklace at the Ashi catwalk presentation with mother of pearl and diamonds in gold, circa 1976
Bulgari ‘High Jewellery’ collection tuborga necklace at the Ashi catwalk presentation with 4.16ct octagonal tanzanite, 2.08ct octagonal aquamarines, and pavé set diamonds in pink gold, and leaf earrings with emeralds and diamonds in platinum and gold, circa 1963
Bulgari ‘High Jewellery’ collection necklace at the Ashi catwalk presentation with pink opal inserts, cushion cut tourmaline, oval tourmalines and diamonds in pink gold
Chopard // Giambattista Valli
January 21st saw the follow up show to July 2018’s inaugural collaboration between Maison Giambattista Valli and Chopard’s co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele. In January they decorated the ‘Haute Joaillerie 16’ show with Chopard’s latest high jewellery creations – including pieces from the latest Chopard ateliers designs: ‘Magical Setting’. These cluster rings, pendants and earrings contain an ingenious and innovative secret setting which allows the diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires featured in the collection to be illuminated to their fullest potential. The sensuous, daringly pleated powder pink, black and white ruffles of the Giambattista Valli couture and the classic millinery styles were delightfully accompanied by truly dazzling and timeless jewellery. Drop earrings and bib necklaces looked especially dazzling proving to be a real catwalk and red carpet trend this season.
Chopard necklace with diamonds in white gold and earrings with colourless and yellow diamonds on the Giambattista Valli catwalk
Chopard earrings on the Giambattista Valli catwalk with diamonds in white gold
Chopard ‘Magical Setting’ earrings with diamonds in white gold
Chopard ‘Precious Lace’ earrings on the Giambattista Valli catwalk with sapphires and diamonds in white gold
Reza // Alexis Mabille
Olivier Reza chose to collaborate with Alexis Mabille – a member of the illustrious ‘Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode’. For Mabille’s ‘Rainbow Splash’ collection, he selected a variety of jewellery designs comprising sapphires, emeralds, rubies and diamonds. These highlighted the spectrum of shades which the couture outfits presented – ranging from black to neon pink, turquoise, emerald, navy and gold. The focus of this show was very much on statement earrings let those be diamond crescents, ruby hoops or sapphire drops, which swung and sparkled next to floral make-up framing the models faces. Additionally, some of the refined tailoring was paired with extravagant diamond bib necklaces.
Reza earrings with emeralds and diamonds on the catwalk at the Alexis Mabille Spring ’19 Couture show
Models wearing Reza ‘Creole’ earrings with spinel and diamonds and ‘Birmane’ earrings with sapphires and diamonds at the Alexis Mabille Spring ’19 Couture show. Photo by François Lollichon
Reza ‘Birmane’ earrings with two pear cut unheated Burmese sapphires totalling 38.83ct, 3.42ct D color IF diamonds, sapphires and diamonds
Reza ‘Birmane’ earrings with two pear cut unheated Burmese sapphires totalling 38.83ct, 3.42ct D color IF diamonds, sapphires and diamonds and ‘Crescent’ earrings with princess cut diamonds, slice shaped diamonds and brilliant cut diamonds at the Alexis Mabille Spring ’19 Couture show. Photos by François Lollichon
Reza ‘Creole’ earrings with spinel and diamonds at the Alexis Mabille Spring ’19 Couture show. Photo by François Lollichon
Reza jewellery on the catwalk at the Alexis Mabille Spring ’19 Couture show
Reza jewellery on the catwalk at the Alexis Mabille Spring ’19 Couture show
While all three couture designers featured in this article presented feminine silhouettes with extraordinary volume, each of the collaborating jewellery houses focused on high drama necklaces and mid 20th century style, classically glamorous drop earrings, mostly embellished with diamonds. Watch out for more of this jewellery trend for 2019 on the upcoming red carpets like the Oscars!
WORDS
Katerina Perez is a jewellery insider, journalist and brand consultant with more than 15 years’ experience in the jewellery sector. Paris-based, Katerina has worked as a freelance journalist and content editor since 2011, writing articles for international publications. To share her jewellery knowledge and expertise, Katerina founded this website and launched her @katerina_perez Instagram in 2013.
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