It’s All About Pavé: The Diamond Watches Designed to Sparkle

May 17, 2021

By Katerina Perez

7 min read

I am always amazed by the tremendous feats of patience demonstrated by high jewellers. Can you imagine spending hours staring through the lens of a magnifying glass to set hundreds of melee stones by hand? Of course, the results are spectacular swathes of pavé diamonds – named after the French word for pavement – where stones are set impossibly close together to create an uninterrupted flow of light. The spring is always an exciting time to discover new jewelled timepieces, especially now that Watches and Wonders exhibition has rooted itself in the annual calendar. For fans of both haute horlogerie and the most extensive feats of pavé, this year has borne some wristwear that will be impossible to resist. Here are some of my favourite pavé diamond watches of recent months that serve as a reminder of the big personality of many small stones.

Cartier

Has there ever been an animal more emblematic of a house than Cartier’s panther? This year, the Maison has introduced new women’s timepieces in the Pasha de Cartier line with an openwork panther’s head outlined in geometric lines of pavé diamonds and finished with marquise-shaped emerald eyes. ‘While it invoked the name of the Pasha of Marrakesh, who had commissioned a water-resistant watch from Cartier in 1943, in reality, its name was chosen because Cartier realized that the word “Pasha” was immensely powerful. It resonated with onomatopoeic cool in all languages and conjured up images of exotic locales and mysterious, glamorous individuals,’ writes Wei Koh in the article for Revolution magazine. Continuing with the panther theme, there are new Panthère Songeuse high jewellery watches that use the pavé setting on three-dimensional forms. Here, pavé diamonds are combined with custom-cut sapphires or smooth slices of black onyx to evoke the texture of a panther’s coat, alongside more diamonds for the case, dial and buckle.

A trio of Cartier Pasha de Cartier timepieces with an openwork panther’s head outlined with pavé diamonds and marquise-shaped emerald eyes

A trio of Cartier Pasha de Cartier timepieces with an openwork panther’s head outlined with pavé diamonds and marquise-shaped emerald eyes

 Cartier Panthère Songeuse high jewellery watches with custom-cut sapphires or smooth slices of black onyx paired with pavé diamonds

Cartier Panthère Songeuse high jewellery watches with custom-cut sapphires or smooth slices of black onyx paired with pavé diamonds

 Cartier Pasha de Cartier watch with a pavé diamond dial, bezel and crown

Cartier Pasha de Cartier watch with a pavé diamond dial, bezel and crown

Chanel

The technique of pavé setting is most commonly associated with round brilliant diamonds but, of course, it’s not exclusively for that type of cut. Take the new Chanel Electro watch which has an 18k white gold case set with 22 baguette-cut diamonds and 55 baguette-cut rainbow sapphires, as well as 46 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel, a diamond-set crown, and a dial set with 168 baguette-cut diamonds. The strap boasts 342 diamonds of around 21.15 carats and 160 baguette-cut rainbow sapphires that add another 8.69 carats to the wrist. Overall, the watch has a total weight of approximately 32.55 carats, in addition to a 70-hour power reserve and water resistance to 50 metres (although I personally would not want to risk swimming in such treasure!).

The Chanel Electro watch with an 18k white gold case set with 32.55 carats of rainbow sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds

The Chanel Electro watch with an 18k white gold case set with 32.55 carats of rainbow sapphires and baguette-cut diamonds

 A closer look at the Chanel Electro watch with 55 baguette-cut rainbow sapphires on the case and a further 160 sapphires on the bracelet strap

A closer look at the Chanel Electro watch with 55 baguette-cut rainbow sapphires on the case and a further 160 sapphires on the bracelet strap

Chopard

Sometimes pavements aren’t uniform, and neither is pavé. The Chopard Esperanza high jewellery watch from the 2021 Red Carpet Collection is a perfect example of this with multi-cut diamonds in a pavé setting. The dial alone has 6.38 carats of pear- and round brilliant-cut diamonds sprinkled across its surface. Radiating outwards from this central feature are the real stars of the show – 41.89 carats of Zambian emeralds in a mixture of pear and round cuts. The thoughtful placement of each stone (it took the Maison’s artisans more than 515 hours to complete) and the saturation of emeralds is no doubt what inspired Caroline Scheufele to launch this as the Maison’s inaugural Red Carpet Collection piece of the year. A further 73 pieces will follow in its wake in the lead-up to the Cannes Film Festival in July 2021.

The Chopard Esperanza high jewellery watch with 6.38 carats of pear- and round brilliant-cut diamonds and 41.89 carats of Zambian emeralds

The Chopard Esperanza high jewellery watch with 6.38 carats of pear- and round brilliant-cut diamonds and 41.89 carats of Zambian emeralds

Louis Vuitton

Did you know that Louis Vuitton’s iconic four-petal flower motif is actually a mascot called Vivienne? I will admit secretly to you, readers, that I was only alerted to her presence thanks to the new Vivienne Bijou Secret Watch! Gaston Louis Vuitton himself was a keen collector of toys, which is why ‘Vivienne’ has a quirky childlike quality. Of course, when she’s crafted in gold and adorned with diamonds, she swiftly becomes an item only for adults. In my quest to find out more, I discovered she also has her own home within the ‘Malle Maison Vivienne’ – a collector’s Louis Vuitton dollhouse. It is in this context that I present to you the Vivienne Bijoux Secret Watch – a fully pavé diamond timepiece with a moveable Vivienne motif that swings aside to reveal a mother-of-pearl-set and ‘LV’ monogrammed dial. This is the first time Vivienne has appeared in a timepiece.

The Louis Vuitton Vivienne Bijou secret watch is a fully pavé diamond timepiece with a mother-of-pearl-set and ‘LV’ monogrammed dial

The Louis Vuitton Vivienne Bijou secret watch is a fully pavé diamond timepiece with a mother-of-pearl-set and ‘LV’ monogrammed dial

 The Louis Vuitton Vivienne Bijou secret watch with the 'Vivienne' mascot covering the dial

The Louis Vuitton Vivienne Bijou secret watch with the 'Vivienne' mascot covering the dial

Piaget

My eye was immediately drawn to the Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Zenith watch, even though it was launched within a sea of high jewellery wonders this year. There’s just something about its inspiration – the sun at its midday peak – as well as the combination of yellow sapphires and diamonds that makes to be both bright and subdued all at the same time. Of course, this gradient effect is achieved through a carefully selected palette of sapphires that range from palest yellow to almost orange in tone. This high jewellery timepiece is a good example of how the pavé setting can create a sort of canvas for other colours and textures to live within.

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Zenith watch with 32 brilliant-cut yellow sapphires and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, 289 diamonds on the dial, and 124 yellow sapphires and 276 diamonds on the bracelet

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Zenith watch with 32 brilliant-cut yellow sapphires and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, 289 diamonds on the dial, and 124 yellow sapphires and 276 diamonds on the bracelet

Rolex

Watches and Wonders 2021 proved the ideal opportunity for Rolex to unveil some new diamond-encrusted version of two iconic timepieces: The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 and the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust. Let’s start with the most colourful of the two – the Day-Date 36 – which has alligator leather straps and enamel hour markers in either coral orange, burgundy red or a bright Paraiba-like sky blue. Each piece is set with 817 diamonds, including an entirely pavé set dial (that’s 450 diamonds), bezel, lugs and clasp. Just as a little side note readers, the Day-Date was actually the first-ever watch to include the day of the week spelt out in full on a dial when it was launched in 1956. The Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust relies on the classic pairing of diamonds and yellow gold with some interesting additions, most notably the roman numerals with a black PVD coating. There’s barely a millimetre of this watch that doesn’t benefit from pavé, which has led to a grand total of 1,089 diamonds including 596 on the President style bracelet and 291 on the dial.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 with a coral orange alligator leather strap, coral enamel hour markers and 817 diamonds, including an entirely pavé set dial

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 with a coral orange alligator leather strap, coral enamel hour markers and 817 diamonds, including an entirely pavé set dial

 The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust with 1,089 diamonds including 596 on the President style bracelet and 291 on the dial

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust with 1,089 diamonds including 596 on the President style bracelet and 291 on the dial

Vacheron Constantin

Two new versions of the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch are exactly what one would imagine a diamond-set timepiece from this esteemed maker would look like: sophisticated, elegant, refined and clever. What makes these 35 mm pieces different are the pavé diamond dial, bezel, lugs and clasp, which contain a total of 912 round-cut stones for a total weight of 4.10 carats. There are two colourways – white gold or rose gold – with a choice of two straps in alligator leather or satin (in shades of midnight blue or ‘candied’ chestnut). It really doesn’t matter from which angle you gaze upon this watch as there are diamonds adorning the small space between the case and the strap, diamonds on the outer edges of the lugs and diamonds trimming the outer edges of the case.

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch with 912 round-cut stones for a total weight of 4.10 carats

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch with 912 round-cut stones for a total weight of 4.10 carats

 Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch with 912 round-cut stones of 4.10 carats in rose gold

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch with 912 round-cut stones of 4.10 carats in rose gold

 Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch with 912 round-cut stones of 4.10 carats in white gold

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch with 912 round-cut stones of 4.10 carats in white gold

 The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch has a pavé diamond dial, bezel, lugs and clasp

The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch has a pavé diamond dial, bezel, lugs and clasp

 Designing the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch, which comes with a choice of midnight blue or ‘candied’ chestnut leather or satin straps

Designing the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding watch, which comes with a choice of midnight blue or ‘candied’ chestnut leather or satin straps

I am sure you will agree with me reader that these timepieces demonstrate the collective might of many small diamonds and the beauty they can possess when used artfully and liberally. Their much grander cousins – large carat weight solitaires – are undoubtedly beautiful, but can they produce such seamless surfaces of light that wrap around the wrist? Herein lies the majesty of diamonds: their surprising versatility. 

Pearls of Wisdom: The Art of Shopping for Pearl Jewellery

continue reading

The Psychology of Jewellery: Why We Adorn Ourselves

From the earliest civilisations to contemporary fashion catwalks, humans have consistently sought ways to embellish themselves. Transcending mere decoration, jewellery acts as a powerful expression of identity, status and emotion. Whether it's the intricate beadwork of ancient societies or the minimalist designs of modern artisans, our choices in adornment reveal layers of personal and cultural narratives. 

by Claire Roberts

Gem Renaissance: Insights from GemGenève Talk on Coloured Gemstones

One of the most exciting shifts in the world of fine jewellery today is the growing appreciation for coloured gemstones, especially those beyond the traditional “Big Three” of rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. So, when the organisers of GemGenève invited me to do a talk, I instantly knew what subject I was going to touch upon - the rise of colour.

by Katerina Perez

Epic Evolution: Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade 

Miseno is a brand that I have followed closely over the past decade, largely because of its intriguing transatlantic flair that blends Italian heritage and craftsmanship with the pizzazz of New York City. Now, I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection.

by Katerina Perez

A Dazzling Decade: Celebrating the 10th Anniversary of Yi Collection

Since celebrating the 10-year anniversary of KaterinaPerez.com in 2023, I will admit to having a newfound appreciation and respect for any fellow business owner who reaches this incredible milestone. It’s certainly not easy to maintain high levels of creativity and craftsmanship, especially with a consistent focus on quality and professionalism.

by Sarah Jordan

Wow Effect: Exploring the Inventive Artistry of Serafino Consoli

While doing my duties as a judge at the 2025 Inhorgenta Awards, I had the pleasure of being introduced to the team behind Serafino Consoli – an Italian brand with a unique claim to fame in the high jewellery world.

by Katerina Perez

Essential Passion: The Artistic Pursuits of Mehragin Rahmati of Mergin Jewelry 

Jewellery can be thoughtful and insular, or it can be effusive and bold and full of character that makes it stand out from the crowd. I would put the colourful and charismatic creations of Mehragin Rahmati into the latter camp because of their attention-grabbing silhouettes, unusual structures, and confident mineral palettes.

by Katerina Perez

Maestro of Masterpieces: New High Jewels in the Picchiotti Classics Collection

Ahead of this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, Picchiotti has revealed some of the latest additions to its high jewellery repertoire, including new suites in the Picchiotti Classics collection.

by Sarah Jordan

Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase 

There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas

Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.

by Katerina Perez

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.