Sea Minerals: Tiffany & Co. Adds to Aquatic Blue Book for Fall 2023

November 8, 2023

By Sarah Jordan

9 min read

The latest expression of the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2023: “Out of Blue” High Jewellery collection continues to transform ocean organisms into bejewelled treasures, set with neon tourmalines, Imperial topazes, tanzanites, carnelians and untreated sapphires in gregarious hues. The Sea Anemone suite may be the freshest addition to this season’s ‘catch’, but if you’re anything like me, it’s the Pisces set that makes your heart beat a little bit faster. Here’s a snapshot of the highlights for autumn/winter 2023.

As someone who is admittedly a little afraid of the ocean, feeling such excitement at a high jewellery collection dedicated to the seas comes as a surprise. Tiffany & Co. is continuing to dive deeper into its aquatic themes for the 2023 Blue Book collection, which is named ‘Out of the Blue’ and is being regularly enhanced throughout the year. This latest instalment and, indeed, the entire offering, draws inspiration from iconic mid-century Tiffany & Co. designer Jean Schlumberger, who had a passion for the ocean. It has been the task of Nathalie Verdeille, Tiffany & Co.’s Chief Artistic Officer of Jewellery and High Jewellery, to pay homage to both the man and his marine masterpieces in this modern-day retelling. She started with five themes – Shell, Coral, Pisces, Star Urchin, and Starfish – and now, we have Sea Anemone to add to the list.

Tiffany & Co. Shell earrings in 18k white gold with blue cuprian elbaite tourmalines of over 6 total carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Shell earrings in 18k white gold with blue cuprian elbaite tourmalines of over 6 total carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

 Tiffany & Co. Coral earrings in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced purplish pink sapphires of over 4 total carats and diamonds from the2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Coral earrings in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced purplish pink sapphires of over 4 total carats and diamonds from the2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

 Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an unenhanced esteemed Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphire of over 5 carats, unenhanced Umba and padparadscha sapphires, rubellites and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an unenhanced esteemed Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphire of over 5 carats, unenhanced Umba and padparadscha sapphires, rubellites and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

 Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin pendant in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an Imperial topaz of over 10 carats, carnelians and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin pendant in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an Imperial topaz of over 10 carats, carnelians and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

 Tiffany & Co. Starfish ring in platinum with a diamond of over 2 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Starfish ring in platinum with a diamond of over 2 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

 Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone ring in 18k white gold with a blue cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 10 carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone ring in 18k white gold with a blue cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 10 carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

The Sea Anemone is a weird and wonderful creature, no doubt, and yet Tiffany & Co. has chosen to interpret this “flower of the sea” in a classical way… at least at first glance. In this suite, we see a contemporary cluster arrangement of blue cuprian elbaite tourmalines, turquoises, and tanzanites paired with inverted-set diamonds, occasionally set en tremblant, as a nod to the anemone’s arrangement of tentacles. This juxtaposition of traditional silhouettes and a ‘spiky’ finish is what makes the Sea Anemone suite stand out.

Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone pendant in 18k white gold with a blue cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 6 carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone pendant in 18k white gold with a blue cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 6 carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

 Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone earrings in 18k white gold with blue cuprian elbaite tourmalines of over 7 total carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone earrings in 18k white gold with blue cuprian elbaite tourmalines of over 7 total carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

 Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone ring in 18k white gold with a blue cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 3 carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone ring in 18k white gold with a blue cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 3 carats, turquoise and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Among the other new launches are some significant minerals, including the Shell necklace adorned with a tourmaline weighing over 10 carats, the Coral necklace with unenhanced purple sapphires totalling more than 37 carats, and the Starfish pendant with a green cuprian elbaite tourmaline weighing above 22 carats.

Tiffany & Co. 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery launches including (from L-R) the Shell necklace with a tourmaline weighing over 10 carats, the Coral necklace with unenhanced purple sapphires totalling more than 37 carats, and the Starfish pendant with a green cuprian elbaite tourmaline weighing more than 22 carats

Tiffany & Co. 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery launches including (from L-R) the Shell necklace with a tourmaline weighing over 10 carats, the Coral necklace with unenhanced purple sapphires totalling more than 37 carats, and the Starfish pendant with a green cuprian elbaite tourmaline weighing more than 22 carats

There are two chapters in particular that stand out: Pisces and Sea Urchin. Neither is entirely new, but both have been added to with fresh pieces for the AW23 season. Pisces explores the geometric repetitiveness of fish scales, both literally and figuratively, using rubellites, unenhanced padparadscha sapphires, pink, orange and Umba sapphires and contrasting cool ocean tones. The voice of Jean Schlumberger is strongest in the bejewelled fish, captured in moments of fast-paced movement, immortalised in brooches, ear cuffs and rings with peach and orange sapphires, rubellites, diamonds and white opal in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

Tiffany & Co. Pisces pendant in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an unenhanced esteemed Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphire of over 8 carats, unenhanced Umba sapphires and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces pendant in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an unenhanced esteemed Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphire of over 8 carats, unenhanced Umba sapphires and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

 Tiffany & Co. Pisces bracelet in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced Umba sapphires, white opals and diamonds from the 2023 Tiffany Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces bracelet in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced Umba sapphires, white opals and diamonds from the 2023 Tiffany Blue Book collection

 Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with a diamond of over 6 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with a diamond of over 6 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

The Star Urchin phase of ‘Out of the Blue’ is striking due to its warm colour palette. Whenever ocean themes arise, they are so often expressed through blue minerals – tourmalines, sapphires, iolites, turquoises and tanzanites, to name a few. Here, Tiffany & Co. has flipped this on its head with Imperial topazes, hand-carved carnelians and diamonds that echo the needle-like texture of urchins. The carnelian designs, whereby carved and shaped spikes of orangey-red mineral jut out in different directions, are my favourites, largely for their volume and three-dimensionality. The Star Urchin brooch atop a men’s black tuxedo jacket simply has to be worn on the red carpet this awards season!

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin brooch in platinum and 18k yellow gold with hand-carved carnelians of over 66 total carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin brooch in platinum and 18k yellow gold with hand-carved carnelians of over 66 total carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book High Jewellery collection

Below, you will find our pick of the most striking pieces from this ever-evolving selection of oceanic masterpieces. When taken as a whole, Tiffany & Co. has surely dived deeper into the creative depths of the ocean than any other in recent memory… who knows what we can expect next year.

Tiffany & Co. Pisces brooch

Tiffany & Co. Pisces brooch

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced padparadscha and Umba sapphires, white opals, rubellites and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone ring

Tiffany & Co. Sea Anemone ring

Set in 18k white gold with a tanzanite of over 11 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin bracelet

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin bracelet

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an Imperial topaz of over 6 carats, carnelians and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with a rubellite of over 7 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Starfish ring

Tiffany & Co. Starfish ring

Set in platinum with an unenhanced green cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 17 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces earrings

Tiffany & Co. Pisces earrings

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with a pair of diamonds of over four total carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an unenhanced Sri Lankan padparadscha sapphire of over 5 carats, unenhanced Umba and padparadscha sapphires, rubellites and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin earrings

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin earrings

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with Imperial topaz of over 9 total carats, hand-carved carnelians and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin ring

Tiffany & Co. Star Urchin ring

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an Imperial topaz of over 6 carats, carnelians and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring

Tiffany & Co. Pisces ring

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with an unenhanced orange sapphire of over 12 carats, padparadscha sapphires, rubellites and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Starfish pendant

Tiffany & Co. Starfish pendant

Set in platinum with an unenhanced green cuprian elbaite tourmaline of over 22 carats and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces bracelet

Tiffany & Co. Pisces bracelet

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced padparadscha sapphires of over 11 total carats, rubellites and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Pisces earrings

Tiffany & Co. Pisces earrings

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced orange sapphires of over 9 total carats, unenhanced padparadscha sapphires and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

Tiffany & Co. Coral bracelet

Tiffany & Co. Coral bracelet

Set in platinum and 18k yellow gold with unenhanced sapphires of over 12 total carats, sapphires, and diamonds from the 2023 Blue Book collection

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