A Cut Above: The Rise of Unconventional Diamonds

April 15, 2024

By Livia Primo Lack

7 min read

The diamond is increasingly becoming a renegade stone, with jewellers choosing abstract and out-there shapes to bring their sparkling creations to life. In honour of the April birthstone, let’s unpack this rising trend and see how designers are reshaping the classic diamond in their works.

April is one of the most popular months in the jewellery world as its birthstone is the king of all gems – the mighty diamond. Whilst there is still an appreciation for the classic cuts such as round brilliant, oval and emerald, the rise in demand for fancy shapes is growing rapidly, with hexagons, lozenges, kites and half-moons taking centre stage. Fine jewellery designer, Marie Lichtenberg’s Dick in a Box ring, made waves last year throughout the fashion world for its phallic-shaped diamond surprise. Taking the shape of an engagement ring box, the ring itself includes a small gold mechanism that, when pushed, causes the sapphire and gold lid to pop open to reveal the unusual diamond shape against a guilloched gold backdrop!

Open view of the Marie Lichtenberg Dick in a Box ring in gold, sapphire and diamond

Open view of the Marie Lichtenberg Dick in a Box ring in gold, sapphire and diamond

 Closed view of the Marie Lichtenberg Dick in a Box ring in gold, sapphire and diamond

Closed view of the Marie Lichtenberg Dick in a Box ring in gold, sapphire and diamond

 Marie Lichtenberg's Dick in a Box ring features a custom cut phallic diamond

Marie Lichtenberg's Dick in a Box ring features a custom cut phallic diamond

Other brands have chosen to invent their own diamond cuts. Chaumet’s Taille Impératrice diamond is an exclusive cut designed in-house, which is the only diamond to combine a hexagonal shape, 88 facets and a star-shaped pavilion. Each stone is individually cut by hand to create superior shine and visual intrigue, especially thanks to the sharp geometric look of the step-cut.

Model wearing Chaumet Bee My Love necklace in white gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

Model wearing Chaumet Bee My Love necklace in white gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

 Chaumet Bee My Love ring and pendant in white gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

Chaumet Bee My Love ring and pendant in white gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

 Model wearing Chaumet Bee My Love earring in white gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

Model wearing Chaumet Bee My Love earring in white gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

 Chaumet Bee My Love necklace and ring in gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

Chaumet Bee My Love necklace and ring in gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

 Model wearing Chaumet Bee My Love ring in rose gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

Model wearing Chaumet Bee My Love ring in rose gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

 Chaumet Bee My Love ring in gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

Chaumet Bee My Love ring in gold and Taille Impératrice diamond

This desire to create conversation through diamonds has risen in the ranks of the world of high jewellery as well. Place Vendôme brand Louis Vuitton and Bucherer Fine Jewellery are two brands that have started to include hints of modern fancy cut diamonds in their most lavish creations. In the most recent chapter of its high jewellery collection Deep Time, Louis Vuitton included a series of custom ‘LV Monogram Star-Cut’ diamonds – an innovative cut that recreates Louis Vuitton’s iconic monogram flower. Bucherer, on the other hand, chose to rework the trapezoid cut in its Rock Diamonds collection. Using boldly modern diamond shapes, the Exceptional Collier high jewellery necklace features special trapezoid cut diamonds to enhance the sparkle.

Louis Vuitton Deep Time Chapter II high jewellery ring in white gold and diamond featuring a custom cut LV Logo diamond

Louis Vuitton Deep Time Chapter II high jewellery ring in white gold and diamond featuring a custom cut LV Logo diamond

 Bucherer Fine Jewellery in white gold and diamond featuring custom-cut trapezoid diamonds

Bucherer Fine Jewellery in white gold and diamond featuring custom-cut trapezoid diamonds

Whether it’s a moon, a star or an entirely made-up shape, modern fancy-cut diamonds are on the up and we cannot wait to see what new and inventive ways these talented designers will use them. The designs below are just a drop in the ocean of what is out there, let us know which shape you like best.

Assael

Assael

NatureScapes earrings in platinum, Tahitian pearl, petrified wood and half-moon rose-cut diamonds

Savolinna

Savolinna

Double Row Spike ring in gold and pyramid diamonds

David Morris

David Morris

Galaxy ring in white and rose gold, ruby, pink and white diamond

Hancocks

Hancocks

Gypsy Set ring in platinum featuring a double bullet cut diamond

Hirsh London

Hirsh London

Earrings in white gold and kite diamonds

Jemma Wynne

Jemma Wynne

Ring in gold and custom cut diamonds

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Ring in white gold, diamond and monogram diamond

Messika Paris

Messika Paris

Toi & Moi Joy Coeur ring in white gold, diamond and heart-shaped coloured diamonds

Nak Armstrong

Nak Armstrong

Ring in gold and custom cut diamonds

Eva Fern

Eva Fern

David Morris

David Morris

Girandola earrings in white gold, rose gold, pink and white diamonds with triangle cut white diamonds

Stone Fine Jewellery

Stone Fine Jewellery

Heartbreak earrings in white gold, emerald and heart-shaped diamonds

Reza

Reza

Ring in white gold and heart-shaped diamonds

Bucherer Fine Jewellery

Bucherer Fine Jewellery

Rock Diamond ring in gold and custom cut diamond

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