A Cut Above: The Rise of Unconventional Diamonds

The diamond is increasingly becoming a renegade stone, with jewellers choosing abstract and out-there shapes to bring their sparkling creations to life. In honour of the April birthstone, let’s unpack this rising trend and see how designers are reshaping the classic diamond in their works.

April is one of the most popular months in the jewellery world as its birthstone is the king of all gems – the mighty diamond. Whilst there is still an appreciation for the classic cuts such as round brilliant, oval and emerald, the rise in demand for fancy shapes is growing rapidly, with hexagons, lozenges, kites and half-moons taking centre stage. Fine jewellery designer, Marie Lichtenberg’s Dick in a Box ring, made waves last year throughout the fashion world for its phallic-shaped diamond surprise. Taking the shape of an engagement ring box, the ring itself includes a small gold mechanism that, when pushed, causes the sapphire and gold lid to pop open to reveal the unusual diamond shape against a guilloched gold backdrop!

Other brands have chosen to invent their own diamond cuts. Chaumet’s Taille Impératrice diamond is an exclusive cut designed in-house, which is the only diamond to combine a hexagonal shape, 88 facets and a star-shaped pavilion. Each stone is individually cut by hand to create superior shine and visual intrigue, especially thanks to the sharp geometric look of the step-cut.

This desire to create conversation through diamonds has risen in the ranks of the world of high jewellery as well. Place Vendôme brand Louis Vuitton and Bucherer Fine Jewellery are two brands that have started to include hints of modern fancy cut diamonds in their most lavish creations. In the most recent chapter of its high jewellery collection Deep Time, Louis Vuitton included a series of custom ‘LV Monogram Star-Cut’ diamonds – an innovative cut that recreates Louis Vuitton’s iconic monogram flower. Bucherer, on the other hand, chose to rework the trapezoid cut in its Rock Diamonds collection. Using boldly modern diamond shapes, the Exceptional Collier high jewellery necklace features special trapezoid cut diamonds to enhance the sparkle.

Whether it’s a moon, a star or an entirely made-up shape, modern fancy-cut diamonds are on the up and we cannot wait to see what new and inventive ways these talented designers will use them. The designs below are just a drop in the ocean of what is out there, let us know which shape you like best.