Paris Haute Couture Week: The most vibrant new creations and high jewellery collections

August 10, 2018

By Katerina Perez

7 min read

Paris Haute Couture week is undeniably the most important showcase in the haute joaillerie calendar, where all of the finest and most renowned luxury houses display their latest collections. At one time, these presentations would’ve seen little more than diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds utilised to create remarkable art jewels. However, within the recent years the industry has widened its perspective on gemstones which are worthy of being used in the very best jewellery – and we now get to see an astonishing spectrum of colour!

Having seen the latest high jewellery pieces, I could not help but notice the trend for bright-tinted gems and jewellery materials. While some maisons created necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings with harmonious combinations of colours; others opted for juxtaposing gemstones which could potentially seem at odds with one another – but in fact create an intriguing potpourri of different shades.

Cartier

One of these brands – Cartier – chose to dedicate its whole new line to the beauty of colour in jewellery. Named ‘Coloratura’, the collection includes some incredibly vibrant tonal combinations, like the ones seen in the ‘Holika’ pieces. The deep reddish-pink cushion cut rubellite of 15.05 carats in the centre of the ring and 30 carats in the centre of the bracelet are combined with blue tourmaline and yellow-green chrysoberyl beads, providing striking contrast and drawing attention to the main stones.

Cartier 'Holika' ring from the 'Coloratura' collection in 15.05ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline, chrysoberyl and diamonds

Cartier 'Holika' ring from the 'Coloratura' collection in 15.05ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline, chrysoberyl and diamonds

 Cartier 'Holika' ring from the 'Coloratura' collection in 15.05ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

Cartier 'Holika' ring from the 'Coloratura' collection in 15.05ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

 Cartier 'Holika' ring from the 'Coloratura' collection in 15.05ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

Cartier 'Holika' ring from the 'Coloratura' collection in 15.05ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

 Cartier 'Holika' bracelet from the 'Coloratura' collection in 30ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

Cartier 'Holika' bracelet from the 'Coloratura' collection in 30ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

 Cartier 'Holika' bracelet from the 'Coloratura' collection in 30ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

Cartier 'Holika' bracelet from the 'Coloratura' collection in 30ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

 Cartier 'Holika' bracelet from the 'Coloratura' collection in 30ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

Cartier 'Holika' bracelet from the 'Coloratura' collection in 30ct cushion cut rubellite, accented with tourmaline and chrysoberyl and diamonds

Lorenz Bäumer

Similarly, Lorenz Baumer’s ‘Black Magic’ collection features a host of jewellery creations which are focused around large, electrifying gemstones: such a rose tourmaline of 17.79 carats, or green tourmaline of 14.98 carats in flower shaped rings, a 16 carat bright orange Spessartite garnet in an abstract design ring, a 20 carat aquamarine in the ‘Rayonnement’ bracelet or a succulent purple tourmaline in ‘Nebuleuse’ bracelet. Add to these green beryls, aquamarines and green tourmalines – all accentuated with contrasting black gold, onyx or black lacquer – and this is where the name of the collection is born.

Lorenz Bäumer 'Fleur de Nuit' ring from 'Black Magic' collection with 14.98ct green tourmalines, sapphires, Paraiba tourmaline, lacquer and rhodium

Lorenz Bäumer 'Fleur de Nuit' ring from 'Black Magic' collection with 14.98ct green tourmalines, sapphires, Paraiba tourmaline, lacquer and rhodium

 Lorenz Bäumer 'Rayonnement' earrings from 'Black Magic' collection with 6.37ct green tourmaline, purple and pink sapphires, and black rhodium

Lorenz Bäumer 'Rayonnement' earrings from 'Black Magic' collection with 6.37ct green tourmaline, purple and pink sapphires, and black rhodium

 Lorenz Bäumer 'Nuage Chinois' earrings from 'Rêverie D'Ete' collection with 8.2ct spessarite garnets, chrysophrase, mother of pearl and diamonds

Lorenz Bäumer 'Nuage Chinois' earrings from 'Rêverie D'Ete' collection with 8.2ct spessarite garnets, chrysophrase, mother of pearl and diamonds

Mellerio Dits Meller

In a style belying the oldest family run jewellery house in Europe, Mellerio Dits Meller’s ‘Millerfiora’ pieces from the latest ‘Isola Bella’ haute joaillerie collection combine the classical and the contemporary. The ornate design of the gold ring, earrings and a pendant is inspired by the baroque columns of the belvedere, and decorated with a vibrant mix of precious stones. Bright pink sapphires in the centre are complemented by green tsavorites, orange spessartite garnets and diamonds, creating an undeniably exciting contrast. 

Mellerio dits Meller ‘Millerfiora’ ring from the 'Isola Bella' collection in pink sapphires, spessarite garnets, green tsavorites and diamonds

Mellerio dits Meller ‘Millerfiora’ ring from the 'Isola Bella' collection in pink sapphires, spessarite garnets, green tsavorites and diamonds

Chaumet

Chaumet’s ‘Trésors d’Afrique’ collection is a tribute to the continent of Africa, completing the trifecta of Chaumet’s geographical themed jewellery ‘Les Mondes de Chaumet’. The haute joaillerie line included the ‘Ronde de Pierres’ necklace, comprised of strings of red spinels, emeralds, sapphires and mandarin garnets, outlined by black spinels and diamonds on black rhodium-plated gold. The design of this piece and the stunning combination of bold colours was inspired by an encounter with the Kenyan artist Evans Mbugua.

Chaumet ‘Ronde de Pierres’ necklace from the ‘Trésors d’Afrique’ collection in red and black spinels, emeralds, sapphires, mandarin garnets and diamonds on black rhodium plated gold

Chaumet ‘Ronde de Pierres’ necklace from the ‘Trésors d’Afrique’ collection in red and black spinels, emeralds, sapphires, mandarin garnets and diamonds on black rhodium plated gold

 Chaumet ‘Ronde de Pierres’ necklace from the ‘Trésors d’Afrique’ collection in red and black spinels, emeralds, sapphires, mandarin garnets and diamonds on black rhodium plated gold

Chaumet ‘Ronde de Pierres’ necklace from the ‘Trésors d’Afrique’ collection in red and black spinels, emeralds, sapphires, mandarin garnets and diamonds on black rhodium plated gold

Anna Hu

In the case of Anna Hu, the colourful story of her latest masterpieces is centred around an astounding 26.13 carat peridot in the ‘Mandarin Oriental Ducks’ brooch. It was created as a tribute to eternal love between a man and a woman, as this breed of ducks is known for finding a partner for life. Carved pink coral, rubies, peridots, yellow, orange and violet sapphires are combined to create a jewel that is spectacularly unique and bright.

Anna Hu ‘Mandarin Oriental Ducks’ brooch with 26.13 ct peridot, carved pink coral, rubies, peridots, yellow, orange and violet sapphires

Anna Hu ‘Mandarin Oriental Ducks’ brooch with 26.13 ct peridot, carved pink coral, rubies, peridots, yellow, orange and violet sapphires

Chanel

Not all of these colourful jewels are vibrant because of the gemstones which they contain; Chanel’s new ‘Coromandel’ collection includes the ‘Vibration Minerale’ cuff, necklace and a ring which feature colourless diamonds, yellow gold and green and blue coloured enamel, making this design a subtler variation of the colourful trend.

Chanel 'Vibration Minerale' earrings in enamel, pearl, mother of pearl, diamonds and yellow gold

Chanel 'Vibration Minerale' earrings in enamel, pearl, mother of pearl, diamonds and yellow gold

 Chanel 'Vibration Minerale' necklace in enamel, pearl, mother of pearl, diamonds and yellow gold

Chanel 'Vibration Minerale' necklace in enamel, pearl, mother of pearl, diamonds and yellow gold

 Chanel 'Vibration Minerale' cuff in enamel, pearl, mother of pearl, diamonds and yellow gold

Chanel 'Vibration Minerale' cuff in enamel, pearl, mother of pearl, diamonds and yellow gold

Chopard

In contrast, Chopard’s 2018 Red Carpet jewellery collection includes a necklace which is unparalleled in its variety of hues, volume, cuts, and settings of coloured gemstones. Green, purple and yellow gemstones create an intriguing contrast and draw the eye to two bright pink tourmalines in the centre of the design. The gems are set with a minimum of visible metal, so as to let the most light possible shine through, displaying the gemstones’ colours to their fullest potential.

Chopard Red Carpet collection necklace with two feature pear shaped cabochon pink rubellite tourmalines and a variety of gemstones

Chopard Red Carpet collection necklace with two feature pear shaped cabochon pink rubellite tourmalines and a variety of gemstones

Van Cleef & Arpels

A similar approach has been taken in one of the latest Van Cleef & Arpels creations – ‘Panache Mystérieux’ brooch from the ‘Quatre Contes de Grimm’ collection, which produces some incredibly captivating gemstone interplay. Lilac and yellow sapphires are set using the patented Vitrail Mystery Set technique, which has been developed to ensure that the gold setting does not reach the surface of the gemstones, so that they seem to be floating in mid-air.

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Princesse Héméra' brooch from the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection in sapphires, emeralds, tsavorites and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Princesse Héméra' brooch from the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection in sapphires, emeralds, tsavorites and diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels 'Panache Mystérieux' brooch from the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection in Vitrail Mystery Set TM sapphires and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Panache Mystérieux' brooch from the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection in Vitrail Mystery Set TM sapphires and diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels 'Clair de lune' long necklace from the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection with removable brooch in  29.63 ct Sri Lankan sugarloaf purple sapphire, sapphires, grey cultured pearls and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels 'Clair de lune' long necklace from the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection with removable brooch in 29.63 ct Sri Lankan sugarloaf purple sapphire, sapphires, grey cultured pearls and diamonds

 Van Cleef & Arpels removable brooch from the 'Clair de lune' long necklace, part of the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection with  29.63 ct Sri Lankan sugarloaf purple sapphire, sapphires, and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels removable brooch from the 'Clair de lune' long necklace, part of the 'Quatre Contes de Grimm' collection with 29.63 ct Sri Lankan sugarloaf purple sapphire, sapphires, and diamonds

These vibrant splashes of colour across Paris Haute Couture week’s jewellery collections showcase the breadth of gemstones, materials and design styles which are now being played with by the biggest jewellery brands in the world – and which are being enjoyed as a trend by all of their admirers.

Paris Haute Couture Week: Transformable designs create new high jewellery possibilities

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