Exquisite Fine Jewellery: Living in Colour

November 25, 2020

By Katerina Perez

4 min read

In the case of many Indian jewellery companies, their history goes back more than a decade. This is due to the fact that India, as a country, has a great respect for tradition and has a rich history of passing craftsmanship down from generation to generation. Yet even here, the most innovative individuals sometimes dare to strike out on their own, favouring the call of the heart over the powerful gravity of the family. In 2005, the couple Anju and Ajay Jain took a chance, and founded their own jewellery brand called Exquisite Fine Jewellery.

Ajay had experience under his belt through three years of rigorous training and working with a reputed emerald manufacturing company. He exported high-quality gemstones based on custom orders to the United States, as well as a handful of countries in Europe. Anju, meanwhile, graduated from the GIA in Hong Kong, and found herself enchanted by jewellery design. So began their joint enterprise – both as a family and as professionals.

Exquisite Fine Jewellery sautoir with tanzanites, emeralds, opals, pearls and diamonds in yellow gold

Exquisite Fine Jewellery sautoir with tanzanites, emeralds, opals, pearls and diamonds in yellow gold

 Exquisite Fine Jewellery sautoir with tanzanites, emeralds, opals, pearls and diamonds in yellow gold

Exquisite Fine Jewellery sautoir with tanzanites, emeralds, opals, pearls and diamonds in yellow gold

In order to meet the requirements of the modern woman, I try to draw inspiration from my travels, incorporating different architectures, cultures and fashions. I find myself fascinated by all of them, and they inspire me to create unique jewellery. On top of this, I am constantly updating my practice – attending various jewellery exhibitions and seminars on design as well as forecasting trends. I endeavour to keep on top of the latest trends in both colour and fashion. I would call the aesthetics of my design ‘modern with an Indian twist’. I love to combine the beauty and faceting of precious stones with Mughal motifs, creating jewellery that is luxurious, yet simple. – Anju Jain

Exquisite Fine Jewellery is a prime example of first generation jewellers who are exemplary in creativity and craftsmanship. In a sense, a move away from the ingrained knowledge passed from generation to generation can in fact be advantageous. The Jain family has no obligation to feel constrained by tradition. This allows them to tap into global trends as much as possible, weaving them organically into a timeless canvas.

Exquisite Fine Jewellery necklace with emeralds, turquoise and diamonds in yellow gold

Exquisite Fine Jewellery necklace with emeralds, turquoise and diamonds in yellow gold

Working together, the duo was able to achieve such success in their business that the top brands in India – and indeed the world – couldn’t help but take note. This was accomplished not only by spectacular design, but also by carefully selected precious gems: charming tanzanites, rubellitesemeralds, opals, various shades of quartz, pearls and many others. Some of these are ideally suited as a complementing stone for a rare gem that forms the centrepiece of the design. In other cases, where there are more unique specimens, these form the basis for the whole jewel. For example, an 85 carat rubellite cabochon was the starting point for creating a luxurious necklace that is a part of the ‘Benazeer’ collection of limited edition jewellery. Appropriately, the name means “incomparable”.

 Exquisite Fine Jewellery suite with rubellites, tanzanites, emerald and diamonds in yellow gold

Exquisite Fine Jewellery suite with rubellites, tanzanites, emerald and diamonds in yellow gold

 Exquisite Fine Jewellery suite with rubellites, tanzanites, emerald and diamonds in yellow gold

Exquisite Fine Jewellery suite with rubellites, tanzanites, emerald and diamonds in yellow gold

This collection features only high jewellery pieces, with bright, rich gemstones whose hues are juxtaposed with one another. In the necklace we used a rich pink rubellite in the centre, paired with two strands of tanzanite beads weighing 713 carats. Although the motifs resonate with Indian heritage, we believe that ‘Benazeer’ jewels have a universal appeal, and this particular necklace is a perfect fit for a modern queen. – Anju Jain

As is evident, she seeks to create noteworthy jewellery by combining the most daring shades together. Even if the canvas of the design is based around pastel colours, Anju always makes sure to complement them with small accents of bright gems. Thus, she always adheres to her philosophy of design – to add colour to everyday life, and convey the rich influence of her native Indian culture, famous for its colourful special occasion and traditional noble attire.

A selection of Exquisite Fine Jewellery pieces with amethyst, emeralds, turquoise, sapphires, diamonds and rubies

A selection of Exquisite Fine Jewellery pieces with amethyst, emeralds, turquoise, sapphires, diamonds and rubies

Being born in Jaipur – the gemstone cutting centre of the world – I was always surrounded by the beauty of colourful costumes, lively festivals and fine craftsmanship. Every one of them is an explosion of colour. Rajasthan is a desert state – we use colour to break the monotony. – Anju Jain

All of the above elements combined to make the 2006 debut collection of Exquisite Fine Jewellery: Cascade. This stunning line consists of 51 pieces, most of which were embellished with semi precious stones. The design was inspired by the fluid movements of water, and this collection consisted of pastel coloured gemstone chandelier earrings and ear pendants. I have deliberately looked back to this 13-year-old collection, because now in 2020, we have seen a striking increase in the popularity of semi precious stones. Although this trend is obvious to all, there were very few in 2007 who would have seen it coming.

Exquisite Fine Jewellery earrings and ring with emeralds, diamonds and enamel in yellow gold

Exquisite Fine Jewellery earrings and ring with emeralds, diamonds and enamel in yellow gold

“Trends are definitely changing, and our customers are not against experimenting with a variety of materials, whether it be wood, leather or enamel,” says Anju. I am sure that her desire to surprise the loyal fans of Exquisite Fine Jewellery will push the designer to create new, outlandish jewellery all over again. Looking forward, the company is extremely excited to launch a new collection of high end, one of a kind fine jewellery pieces primarily catering to their  Middle Eastern clientele, by the name of ‘Nafees’ in February 2021.

Auctions: An Autumn Season Dedicated to Magnificent Jewels

continue reading

Exceptional Splendour: Jaipur Gems Celebrates 50 Years with Abu Dhabi Opening and New High Jewels 

Let me take you on a behind-the-scenes tour of the new Abu Dhabi boutique and share some of my sparkling highlights

by Katerina Perez

Radiating Confidence: The Mother-Daughter Energy Behind Growing Brand Aponine

As one of this year’s Couture show debutants, Turkish brand Aponine impressed me with its blend of colourful creativity, timeless elegance, and stylish femininity. Let’s take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Sensual Silhouettes: Jewels with Curves in All the Right Places

Is it getting hot in here, or is it just us? As jewellers swap sharp lines for shapely swirls, we look at new collections that are embracing the raw power of sensuality inspired by the female form

by Rachael Taylor

Artistic Realms: The Enchanting Natural World of Histoire D’Elle

I had the pleasure of speaking with Pascale Van Maele, the Brand Manager of Histoire d'Elle, which celebrates the deep-rooted connection between quiet femininity, elegance and natural forms. Let's explore together…

by Sarah Jordan

Spinel Stories: Celebrating the Special Allure of Spinels with the House of Gübelin 

I visited the Geneva boutique of the family-owned business to indulge my passion for this overlooked gemstone and explore some of its beautiful creations…

by Katerina Perez

Golden Hour: Cosmic Creations in the Chanel Reach for the Stars High Jewellery Collection

The Reach for the Stars collection bounces between cosmic constellations of diamonds, elaborate, almost mythological neckwear, and starbursts of coloured stones, all with the Maison’s Parisian flair

by Sarah Jordan

Ultimate Guide to Promise Rings: What They Mean, How to Wear One and Where to Buy

While the promise ring's meaning has evolved, its emotional weight remains, making it especially popular among Gen Z and millennial couples seeking the perfect, personal pre-engagement jewel

by Claire Roberts

Exquisite Escapes: The Idyllic Inspirations Behind the Diorexquis High Jewellery Collection

In early May 2025, Dior Joaillerie's Artistic Director Victoire de Castellane showcased an unprecedented high jewellery collection, Diorexquis, to more than 300 VIPs at the Château de la Colle Noire in the heart of Provence. Let's take a closer look…

by Katerina Perez

Millionaire Products: Celebrating the No-Expense-Spared Bvlgari Polychroma High Jewellery Collection

Bvlgari is opening a magnificent new chapter in the world of high jewellery, and high jewellery watches with the Polychroma collection. Here's what I have discovered so far…

by Katerina Perez

Sea of Wonder: Celebrating the Ocean’s Endless Bounty with the Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2025

Here are some of the creations that became an integral part of the Tiffany & Co. underwater world, including starfish, crashing waves and sea turtles…

by Katerina Perez

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Epic Evolution:Miseno Launches the Arco Collection to Celebrate a Fabulous Decade

I am pleased to present to you my highlights of the new Arco High Jewellery collection, which was formally showcased to the jewellery world at Couture from June 4-8, 2025

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

In Conversation:Discussing Paraiba - The Legacy of a Color

with Vogue Singapore

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.