Breath of Life: The Invigorating En Tremblant Designs of Diva Jewels

It’s always a pleasure to discover a brand that embraces a particular technique to develop a recognisable signature style. Mumbai-based bespoke jeweller Diva Jewels has mastered the art of ‘en tremblant’ that allows coloured gemstones and diamonds to delicately flutter with the wearer’s every movement. This is the kind of jewellery that ‘is better to see once than to hear about a thousand times’, so I have been keeping an eye on the progress of Diva Jewels’ work since I initially met the brand at GemGeneve in May 2023. At our last encounter in Hong Kong, I spoke to managing director Rishi Mehta, who leads the business with his father, Mukesh Mehta, about his fondness for the natural world, his signature collections, and even a pair of remarkable bejewelled shoes…

Diva Jewels first burst into being in 1995, although the Mehta family has more than five decades of experience in jewellery-making and handcraftsmanship. Mukesh Mehta and his son Rishi decided to build a design house and manufacturing facility specialising in custom-made pieces that blend jewellery art, sculpture, and movement with natural themes, notably hummingbirds, red parrots, and flowers.

Diva Jewels Floral Bloom ring from the Marvels of Nature collection with rose-cut diamonds, further diamonds, carved rubies, ruby cabochons, and emeralds in 18k rose gold

When I encountered Diva Jewels in Hong Kong earlier this year, I was particularly enamoured by the Magical Blossom ring and a sensational two-finger ring depicting a scarlet macaw, which can also be worn as a brooch. Both creations had a sense of daring creativity about them that really drew me in… after all, it takes a confident woman to wear a parrot with fully articulated, flapping wings on her hand! Plus, these jewels are different to what I typically encounter in the Indian market, which added to my intrigue about Diva Jewels and its story.

During my time speaking with Rishi Mehta, I discovered that he’s following “a more global approach towards jewellery making”. He told me: “The Indian audience is well travelled and exposed to some of the finest crafts of the world. At Diva, we see ourselves as the pioneers of making such artistic and globally inspired jewels in India.” This blending of cultures, styles and ideas is fascinating to me, as it allows the imagination to completely run wild! Perhaps that’s why Diva Jewels was empowered to create a few pairs of nature-inspired jewelled high heels and push its creativity to the extreme. Continue reading to step into Rishi Mehta’s colourful world…

Diva Jewels Steps of Brilliance ‘Hummingbird’ shoe jewels with rubies, emeralds, yellow tourmalines and diamonds in 18k rose gold

Katerina Perez: What sets Diva Jewels apart from other bespoke jewellers in your region?

Rishi Mehta: The brand aims to shatter traditional boundaries of jewellery making and redefine the art of adornment. Each design is an expression of emotions and an unwavering commitment to quality and craftsmanship. The idea of breathing life into jewels using the ‘en tremblant’ technique is something that sets us apart from the traditional jewellers in India. Moreover, our in-house atelier with state-of-the-art facilities enables us to constantly innovate and experiment with our craft. Our team of designers and artisans work hand in hand to bring art and imagination to life.

KP: Your ‘Marvels of Nature’ collection comprises breathtaking jewels that sparkle with every move. What were the techniques used to bring them to life?


RM: To create jewellery that would leave our clients awestruck, we have used techniques such as ‘en tremblant’, kinetic movement, multi coloured gold, spring-joint mechanisms and more, combined with hand carved gemstones, rough diamonds and brilliant cut stones all set beautifully in a combination of settings.

A bejewelled glass bottle inspired by the Qing dynasty created by Mumbai-based brand Diva Jewels in gold, enamel, diamonds, emeralds and sapphires

As the name suggests, nature has been a constant source of inspiration for us, especially the movements of birds and flowers. As a world traveller, I have had the opportunity to witness these marvels in person, and it’s a pleasure to add an artistic touch to them and bring them to life. We love using hues that are nature-inspired, making them look as real and natural as possible. Our signature style features movement and combinations of coloured stones and enamel in various shades to make them stand out.

Diva Jewels Blue Jay ring from the Marvels of Nature collection with diamonds, blue sapphires, yellow briolettes and enamel in 18k yellow gold

KP: How did you turn the ‘en tremblant’ technique that is associated for many with historical jewellery into something modern and trendy?


RM: It is true that we draw inspiration from the early use of this technique, but I believe we gave it a more modern and young appeal by using it in our transformable and playful pieces that are rich in details and colours, but not only! Our signature shoe design is a magnificent example of using this technique in a stylish and trendy fashion. The final output makes the jewel move in a very natural and realistic way rather than fixed directional movement in regular joints or links. Once you see our designs on Instagram or in real life, you can’t fail to notice how flower petals or parts of a bird’s body move naturally.

The Diva Jewels Whispering Petals timepiece features a flower bursting with rubies, emeralds and diamonds that swings aside to reveal a diamond-set dial on an 18k gold bracelet strap

KP: Can you tell us about any unique masterpieces that really highlight your signature aesthetic?


RM: Our Dance of Nature shoes that dazzle with the brilliance of hummingbirds are a showstopper. They’re adorned with finely cut diamonds, briolettes, and precious stones set in 18k rose gold to reflect the harmony of nature and its infinite shades. Handcrafted in our atelier, the piece was built over months of research and hard work. The shoes are not just functional but a wearable work of art. With every step you take, you dazzle in colours of various shades. These shoes are an embodiment of sheer opulence and elegance, so we didn’t stop our creativity after the first pair of shoes but continued to explore how we can make a woman dream!

KP: You are not afraid of size and scale in your jewels – is there a particular type of woman who you are adorning?

RM: There is a jewel to suit the needs of every kind of taste. Our jewels are meant for the bold women of today, who dare to be different, who have a strong personality and are confident to show it. Our rings are, in fact, multifunctional and crafted with utmost strength and durability. Nowadays, a woman doesn’t need to attend an evening ball or a red carpet to look good; she is free to wear a jewel that will make her stand out whenever she pleases. The same approach is applied to our shoes; being multipurpose, their elements can be detached and worn as a brooch or a bracelet. We understand the needs of our audience and balance creativity with wearability.

Hand painting enamel onto the Diva Jewels Blue Jay ring from the Marvels of Nature collection with diamonds, blue sapphires, and yellow briolettes in 18k yellow gold

KP: Finally, what is on the horizon for Diva Jewels, and what can we expect from you in the months ahead?


RM: You can expect a lot of jewels that are a testament to craftsmanship and hard work on an international level. We are developing another signature - the ‘Dew Drop’ diamond setting - to give our designs a unique look. You will certainly be seeing more of us on a global level as we intend to target the US, Middle East and European countries to showcase our work through exhibitions, private viewings, red-carpet events and auctions.

There’s something special about jewels that flutter when you move, especially when each subtle flicker of coloured gemstone or diamond evokes a bird’s wings in flight or the petals of a flower waving in the breeze. I hope this closer look at Diva Jewels has inspired you to seek out their striking designs and explore more of the brand on Instagram (mine, too!). I am sure we will be seeing more of the brand’s novelties throughout 2024 as it sets out on a mission across the world.

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