Baselworld 2018: Independent watchmakers

May 4, 2018

By Katerina Perez

5 min read

One of the most striking things about the new watch collections presented this year is the focus on conceptual art and design. This became apparent after visiting the biggest watch fair of the year – Baselworld – where independent watchmakers showcased their work at a specially designated ‘Les Ateliers’ area.

In particular, they eschewed the idea of beauty for beauty’s sake, and instead applied deeper meaning to their design choices. Here, I chose 5 ‘Les Ateliers’ exhibitors whose work impressed me the most.

MB&F M.A.D.GALLERY

For many watch manufacturers, design is equally as important as the intricate complications of the watch movement, and a good example of this was displayed at the MB&F M.A.D. (Mechanical Art Devices) gallery. A number of visually intriguing pieces that represented unique Horological Machines and Mechanical Art Devices were showcased in the salon, but I was most captivated by Gaby Wormann’s art. The artist created oversized insects which looked anatomically perfect, but upon closer inspection I noticed the horological cogs and wheels inside the ‘bugs’ which have been repurposed in the most delicate and beautiful way.

Gaby Wormann's horological insects in the MB&F M.A.D. gallery

Gaby Wormann's horological insects in the MB&F M.A.D. gallery

 Gaby Wormann's horological insects in the MB&F M.A.D. gallery

Gaby Wormann's horological insects in the MB&F M.A.D. gallery

 Gaby Wormann's horological insects in the MB&F M.A.D. gallery

Gaby Wormann's horological insects in the MB&F M.A.D. gallery

Kerbedanz

Another fascinating brand that I discovered in the ‘Les Ateliers’ area was Kerbedanz. This is a relatively young brand that have been producing watches since 2015, and who only create 150 pieces a year. Two thirds of their production is dedicated to bespoke pieces for their dedicated customer base across the world. The heavily embellished jewellery watches which the brand creates are a testament to the in-house craftsmanship that is celebrated by the Swiss brand. For this year’s novelty they have introduced the ‘White Flowers’ model, featuring delicate flowers which look like Sakura, applied in cloisonné enamelled atop a mother of pearl dial. The watch is available in 42mm and 38mm models.

Kerbedanz 'White Flowers' watch with mother of pearl, filigree and enamel detail dial

Kerbedanz 'White Flowers' watch with mother of pearl, filigree and enamel detail dial

 Kerbedanz 'White Flowers' watch with mother of pearl, filigree and enamel detail dial

Kerbedanz 'White Flowers' watch with mother of pearl, filigree and enamel detail dial

Giberg

Giberg is Old High German for ‘treasure’ – and thus expresses the company’s own creed: creating treasures for the future. Andreas Altmann, founder of Giberg, is in fact a professional jeweller, who takes precious materials and uses them to create large horological masterpieces which are hand crafted in Switzerland. This March I saw Giberg creations for the first time, and was instantly enchanted by the fusion between jewellery and watchmaking. It was most evident in their ‘Niura’ watch that was fully paved with colourless diamonds. As it turns our 2018 was Giberg’s first time exhibiting at Baselworld, and based on the quality and inventiveness of their designs, I hope it won’t be their last!

Giberg 'Niura' watch with skeleton mechanism, pavé diamond and sapphire embellishment

Giberg 'Niura' watch with skeleton mechanism, pavé diamond and sapphire embellishment

 Giberg 'Niura' watch with skeleton mechanism, pavé diamond and ruby embellishment

Giberg 'Niura' watch with skeleton mechanism, pavé diamond and ruby embellishment

Strom

Next to Giberg, Andreas Altmann’s friend, Daniel Strom, was exhibiting his watches under his namesake brand. Originating from Sweden, the brand was founded just over 4 years ago. The daring aesthetics of Strom timepieces were completely different from anything I have seen at the fair this year, or in any other. Their designs are based on the idea of celebrating and communicating a significant message: the transience of time. The skull motifs and dragons which are present in all of the watches and complementing jewellery pieces serve as symbols of this, while adding a rock and roll edge to the brand’s aesthetic.

Strom 'Draco Argentum Classic White' watch

Strom 'Draco Argentum Classic White' watch

 Details of Strom's 'Draco Argentum Classic White' watch

Details of Strom's 'Draco Argentum Classic White' watch

 Bracelet buckle of Strom 'Draco Argentum Classic White' watch

Bracelet buckle of Strom 'Draco Argentum Classic White' watch

 Strom 'Argentum Diamond Bezel' watch with mother-of-pearl dial

Strom 'Argentum Diamond Bezel' watch with mother-of-pearl dial

 Strom 'Argentum Diamond Bezel' watch with mother-of-pearl dial and ruby crown

Strom 'Argentum Diamond Bezel' watch with mother-of-pearl dial and ruby crown

 Strom 'In Memoriam of HR Giger' watch

Strom 'In Memoriam of HR Giger' watch

 Strom 'In Memoriam of HR Giger' watch

Strom 'In Memoriam of HR Giger' watch

Alexander Shorokhoff

Alexander Shorokhoff combines the spirit of his Russian heritage with the watchmaking expertise of his home in Germany, to create pieces which tell stories and make statements with their design. The two focal collections of the brand – ‘Heritage’ and ‘Avantgarde’ – are inspired by art and architecture through different perspectives. The former is influenced by the 19th century, and combines classic design with traditional engravings, skeletonizing, and enamelling. The latter is inspired by avant garde art and suprematism, the Russian art movement of the early 20th century.

Alexander Shorokhoff 'Kandy Avant Garde' watch

Alexander Shorokhoff 'Kandy Avant Garde' watch

 Alexander Shorokhoff 'Kandy Avant Garde' watch

Alexander Shorokhoff 'Kandy Avant Garde' watch

 Alexander Shorokhoff 'Squirrel' watch

Alexander Shorokhoff 'Squirrel' watch

 Alexander Shorokhoff stall in the Les Ateliers hall of Baselworld

Alexander Shorokhoff stall in the Les Ateliers hall of Baselworld

These novelties do not fall easily into a jewellery watch category, with some of them containing hardly any gemstones and jewels in their designs. However, the dedication to decorative techniques within these pieces is paramount, and this is what inspired my excitement of these brands.

Pantone: Think Pink for Spring/Summer 2018

continue reading

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Legacy of Love: The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

Jewellery is a transmitter of memories and emotions through time, which is something that Dubai-based designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani knows all too well. During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Celebrating Colour: 20 Uplifting Jewellery Creations by Lisa Nik

Whether you're craving a juicy mandarin garnet or an eye-catching bi-colour tourmaline, here are 20 joyful pieces that exemplify the Lisa Nik approach, as well as the inspiration behind them…

by Sarah Jordan

Watches and Wonders 2025: The Coolest Watch Novelties

With pastel pops, Pop Art influences, and playful twists on time itself, Watches and Wonders 2025 delivered a vibrant feast of creativity. Discover the fun new watches setting trends in Geneva this spring

by Rachael Taylor

White Hot: Achromatic Jewellery is Having a Moment

Let’s explore the revival of all white jewellery and discover why this look is universally complementary – and a great investment.  

by Rachael Taylor

Reinventing Royalty: The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology 

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Watches and Wonders 2025: Eight of the Most Artful Dials 

From lovers kissing on a bridge to precious animals painted in enamel or gems, this year’s watch launches included timepieces with extraordinary dials that blur the line between watchmaking and wearable art.

by Rachael Taylor

Birthday Wishes: Embracing the Power of Being Different 

Today, I want to share my thoughts on embracing your inner self and channelling all that power into your biggest passions…

by Katerina Perez

Flip the Script: Meet the Jewellers Creating Luxury Customised Watches

Jewellery designers are increasingly turning their artistic talents to the world of horology, customising luxury watches with unique embellishments that carry their personal style signatures. From reimagined Rolexes to gemstone-studded bezels, discover how jewellers are making their mark on the world of timepieces

by Rachael Taylor

Iconic Revival: Boucheron Reinvents the Serpent Bohème Jewellery

That nostalgic feeling of seeing past creations—sometimes forgotten, sometimes iconic—sparking a rush of inspiration to reimagine and breathe new life into what once was. That's exactly what Boucheron has achieved with its latest revival: the Serpent Bohème Vintage collection

by Hirshi Sujanti

Art Deco Innovation: Exploring the Iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Setting

The Mystery Setting by Van Cleef & Arpels stands out as a masterpiece of Art Deco ingenuity. As the world celebrates the centenary of Art Deco in 2025, we are taking the opportunity to spotlight one of the most technically ambitious innovations to emerge from this golden era of jewellery design

by Claire Roberts

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.