Turquoise: A gemstone the colour of the morning sky

December 20, 2019

By Katerina Perez

9 min read

The talisman of lords, a symbol of good luck, a protecting stone, a love amulet – legend has it that all these can be attributed to turquoise. Its significance is increased if you were born in December: those whose birthday falls in the last month of the year are afforded special protection by this stone that boasts the colour of the morning sky.

Until recently, the jewellery industry saw turquoise as an inexpensive material that could be framed in silver. It was in this form that the stone with its amazing colour would find itself in the jewellery boxes of young ladies. But the latest trends – which paved the way for this admittedly affordable but enchanting gemstone to make its way into high jewellery collections – have taken turquoise to a whole new level. In the last year alone, it has become part of collections at Bulgari, Harry Winston, Louis Vuitton, Mellerio Dits Meller, Suzanne Syz, Veschetti, David Yurman and many other famous brands.

Bvlgari Cinemagia collection necklace

Bvlgari Cinemagia collection necklace

This appears to be something of an unprecedented elevation for such an unpretentious stone, but no! Turquoise has for time immemorial been accustomed to royal environments, both in the literal and figurative sense. In the 16th century for example, Persian craftsmen made the throne presented to Boris Godunov by Shah Abbas I from hammered gold with a floral pattern that was richly decorated with rubies, pearls and turquoise. Turquoise also adorns the throne that originally belonged to Ivan the Terrible, and then to Mikhail Romanov. Here, inlays made with the blue mineral are accentuated by tourmalines, chrysolites, pearls and two large topazes. It is not surprising that turquoise became world-famous thanks to the generous gifts of eastern rulers, as its first deposits were found in modern-day Iran. Now turquoise is also mined in the USA (Arizona), Mexico, Mongolia, Afghanistan, China, Israel, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and the Sinai Peninsula.

David Yurman turquoise necklace and earrings from Artist Series

David Yurman turquoise necklace and earrings from Artist Series

Turquoise certainly was not chosen to be a December birthstone by chance. It can be damaged by fats, oils and alcohol solutions, heat or direct sunlight – but with the help of water it adopts a more intense colour. There is often not enough blue sky in winter, and so a jewel with this particular colour will invariably invoke pleasant associations for both its owner and for those around them!

David Webb •

David Webb •

Shangri-La necklace with carved emeralds, oval cabochon turquoise, brilliant-cut diamonds, polished 18K gold, and platinum

Bvlgari •

Bvlgari •

Serpenti Secret Watch with 18 kt rose gold head set with brilliant cut diamonds and turquoise eyes, 18 kt rose gold case, 18 kt rose gold dial and double spiral bracelet, both set with brilliant cut diamonds and turquoises

Boucheron •

Boucheron •

Serpent Bohème Bracelet Pompon set with turquoise and diamonds in yellow gold

Boghossian •

Boghossian •

Art of Inlay ring with turquoise, aquamarine and diamond

Boghossian •

Boghossian •

Art of Inlay necklace with sapphires inlaid in turquoise and further embellished with diamonds

Pomellato •

Pomellato •

Pomellato Armonie Minerali ring with lapis lazuli, chrysocolla and emeralds

Ming Lampson •

Ming Lampson •

Turquoise Flower Drop earrings with turquoise drops, tsavorites and sapphires

Harry Winston •

Harry Winston •

Brownstone necklace with turquoise, sapphires and diamonds

Harry Winston •

Harry Winston •

Winston Candy ring with 1 oval-shaped pink tourmaline weighing a total of 11.22 carats, pink sapphires and turquoise

Piaget •

Piaget •

Extremely Piaget "Sunlight" ring in turquoise with a central tanzanite

Bvlgari •

Bvlgari •

Serpenti Forever bucket bag

Marina B •

Marina B •

‘FABIOLA’ turquoise, opals, sapphire and diamond drop earrings

Harry Winston •

Harry Winston •

Brownstone earrings with 6 sugarloaf turquoise and 4 cushion-cut sapphires weighing a total of 6.48 carats, and diamonds

de GRISOGONO •

de GRISOGONO •

Mediterranean necklace with turquoise, sapphires and diamonds

de GRISOGONO •

de GRISOGONO •

Mediterranean collection earrings with 66.84 cts turquoise drops, sapphires and emeralds

de GRISOGONO •

de GRISOGONO •

Mediterranean collection ring with 18 cts turquoise, sapphires, amethysts and diamonds

Chaumet •

Chaumet •

Les Mondes de Chaumet Talismania bracelet in ebony and turquoise set in yellow gold

Van Cleef & Arpels •

Van Cleef & Arpels •

Lady Arpels Martin-Pêcheur Azur watch with turquoise, lapis lazuli and diamonds

Van Cleef & Arpels •

Van Cleef & Arpels •

Perlée Couleurs transformable long necklace with turquoise set in yellow gold

Tiffany&Co. •

Tiffany&Co. •

Tiffany T diamond and turquoise circle pendant

Glenn Spiro •

Glenn Spiro •

Turquoise Ceramic bangle in 18K yellow gold set with 16 Antique turquoise beads weighing 393.53 cts, moonstones and diamonds

Tiffany&Co. •

Tiffany&Co. •

Turquoise and rubellite ring

Suzanne Syz •

Suzanne Syz •

Carved turquoise and diamonds earrings in gold and titanium

Chopard •

Chopard •

RIHANNA ♥ CHOPARD earrings

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