Paris Haute Couture Week: Fashion-led designs find their way into high jewellery

July 31, 2018

By Jodie Smith

6 min read

Traditionally, during the first week of July a selection of the most renowned, revered and skilled maisons present their latest collections as part of the Paris Haute Couture novelties showcase. Having seen what the unique Place Vendôme brands introduced this year, I could not help noticing that fashion-led designs have actually found their way into Haute Joaillerie.

Fine jewellery and luxury houses such as De Beers, Chanel, Boucheron, Dior and Tasaki have all embraced recent fashion trends as well as original ways of wearing jewellery. Their designers obviously keep in mind the style and taste of the millennials who have become viable jewellery consumers over the course of the last few years. Having their own original taste, this new generation of clients have created a noticeable shift in the types of jewellery that the most famous maisons create.

href=”https://www.debeers.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>De Beers

De Beers remain one of the most important diamantaires in the world, and so when their jewellery design is seen to be adapting to recent trends, the entire industry is sure to take note. As a part of their ‘Diamond Legends’ collection they introduced the ‘Cupid’ ear climbers that can be worn together or with one statement ear diamond stud, and the earring is also transformable, since the 1.80ct pear cut diamond drops can be detached! Both of these design elements have been some of the most popular trends in contemporary jewellery – in fashion jewellery and high jewellery – of recent years.

The making of De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

The making of De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

 De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

 De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

 De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

De Beers ‘Cupid’ ear cuffs in total of 3.57ct princess and marquise cut diamonds with pear shaped drops

href=”https://www.dior.com/en_us” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Dior

One brand who has embraced several jewellery design trends this season is Dior. Victoire de Castellane created a collection which comprised of broad double finger rings, chokers, palm bracelets, asymmetrical earrings – and most interestingly – a connected bracelet and ring ‘hand jewellery’ piece. While chokers are a simple nod to recent trends across the entire jewellery industry and asymmetrical earrings were presented by several houses, this design is completely unique among the Paris Haute Couture showcases.

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold and diamonds

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Saphir Rose’ necklace in white gold and diamonds

 Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Noire’ earrings in white gold, diamonds, black opals, sapphires, emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines

Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Noire’ earrings in white gold, diamonds, black opals, sapphires, emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines

 Dior ‘Dentelle Popeline Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and Paraiba tourmaline

Dior ‘Dentelle Popeline Tourmaline Type Paraïba’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and Paraiba tourmaline

 Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Blanc’ earrings in yellow gold, diamonds, opals, sapphires and emeralds

Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Opale Blanc’ earrings in yellow gold, diamonds, opals, sapphires and emeralds

 Dior  ‘Dentelle Tulle illusion Émeraude' ring in yellow gold, sapphires and diamonds

Dior ‘Dentelle Tulle illusion Émeraude' ring in yellow gold, sapphires and diamonds

 Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ earrings in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

Dior ‘Dentelle Satin Rubis’ earrings in pink gold, diamonds and rubies

 Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Émeraude’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and blue spinels

Dior ‘Dentelle Velours Émeraude’ double ring in white gold, diamonds, emerald and blue spinels

 Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Spinelle Rose’ hand jewellery in white gold, diamonds and pink spinels

Dior ‘Dentelle Guipure Spinelle Rose’ hand jewellery in white gold, diamonds and pink spinels

href=”https://us.boucheron.com/en_us/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Boucheron

To celebrate their 160-year anniversary, Boucheron decided to create new interpretations of the theme of nature in their ‘Naturaliste’ collection that featured their signature leaf motif ‘Lierre de Paris’ and ‘Cigale des Neiges’ lines. Featuring double finger rings and asymmetrical earrings, this simple adaptation of traditional jewellery styles displays the maison’s ability to move with the times, nodding to classic jewellery whilst still alluding to current trends.

Boucheron ‘Cigale des Neiges’ double ring in diamonds and white gold

Boucheron ‘Cigale des Neiges’ double ring in diamonds and white gold

 Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and yellow gold

 Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and white gold

Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ asymmetrical earrings in diamonds and white gold

 Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ double ring in diamonds and yellow gold

Boucheron ‘Lierre de Paris’ double ring in diamonds and yellow gold

href=”http://www.chanel.com/en_GB/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Chanel

Chanel’s unusual ‘Évocation florale’ cocktail ring offsets the expected ring design by shifting the feature gemstone – in this case a beautiful and rare 12.05 carat mint green tsavorite garnet – to one side. This asymmetrical design style has become common in open ended rings, where frequently gems sit between the fingers rather than sitting flush in the centre of them.

Chanel 'Bague Evocation Florale' ring from the 'Coromandel' collection with 12.05ct mint tsavorite, pink sapphires, diamonds and tourmalines

Chanel 'Bague Evocation Florale' ring from the 'Coromandel' collection with 12.05ct mint tsavorite, pink sapphires, diamonds and tourmalines

href=”https://www.tasaki-global.com/” rel=”noopener noreferrer” target=”_blank”>Tasaki

Taking on one of the most innovative design ideas which I witnessed at Paris Haute Couture week; Tasaki created a pearl and gold double sided earring in their Nacreos an Moulin collections. Both designs clamber into the ear, while the earring curves forward and over the earlobe.

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

 Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and white gold

 Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and yellow gold

Tasaki 'Buoy' earrings in South Sea pearls and yellow gold

Paris Haute Couture week is a showcase which the industry looks to for inspiration, leading the way in trends and approaches to presenting fine jewellery. It is undeniably exciting to see these famous luxury houses take note of trends in the broader jewellery world.

Dior Dior Dior: Christian Dior Lace Becomes High Jewellery

continue reading

Reasons to Shop: The Moments that Demand a Fresh Jewellery Purchase 

There's no rule that says you need a reason to buy a new piece of jewellery, but sometimes, a little encouragement makes the decision even more exciting. If you're looking for a playful excuse to book your next jewellery appointment, here are a few irresistible reasons to treat yourself.

by Hirshi Sujanti

Grecian Glamour: The Designers Preparing to Spotlight Greek Style at JCK Las Vegas

Recently, I was approached by the organisers of a special ‘Greek mission’ who are supporting 11 independent designers and brands as they seek to make their mark at JCK Las Vegas from June 6-9, 2025. Below, I would like to introduce you to each of the businesses participating in this incredible showcase of Greek design, ingenuity and craftsmanship.

by Katerina Perez

Naked Attraction: The Best High Jewellery of the 2025 Cannes Film Festival 

Here’s a rundown of some of the best Cannes jewellery looks from the 78th annual festival (May 13-24), including the likes of Dakota Johnson, Angelina Jolie, and Natalie Portman, who all make striking jewellery the star of their ensembles

by Sarah Jordan

In Conversation: Discussing Paraiba — The Legacy of a Color with Vogue Singapore

The conversation encouraged both myself and Kevin Ferreira, my co-author, to recall exactly why we wrote Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color, and I am pleased to share more with you below

by Katerina Perez

Semi-Precious vs Precious Gemstones: Why the Old Labels No Longer Work

I can’t count the number of times I’ve asked myself: what really sets so-called precious and semi-precious stonesapart? Is it their rarity? Colour? Durability? Value? Or is it simply tradition—an outdated hierarchy we’ve inherited without question

by Katerina Perez

Larger than Life: New Mineral Masterpieces and Global Adventures with Margot McKinney 

Let’s take a closer look at the pieces and places that have helped to shape the Margot McKinney brand over the last 12 months, including the rather sensational Marina, Aurora and Bloem necklaces

by Katerina Perez

Male Adornment: The Evolution of Men’s Jewellery from the 1400s Until Today

Men's jewellery is often overlooked, yet its history is both rich and cyclical. Over the past six centuries, the popularity of male adornments has fluctuated, reflecting shifts in fashion, status, and cultural values. Here, Amanda Triossi examines the reasons behind male jewellery, along with its periods of abundance and decline.

by Amanda Triossi

Perfect Proposal: The Top 10 Engagement Ring Mistakes to Avoid 

The moment you start thinking about proposing, everything shifts. Ordinary things become significant: dinner out, a walk in the park, a glance at their jewellery box. And then comes "the ring": a symbol of love, yes, but also a silent spokesperson for everything you feel and hope for. No pressure, right?

by Claire Roberts

Couture Show 2025: The Top 10 Debutants Heading to Las Vegas 

The much anticipated Couture Show will return to Wynn Las Vegas from June 4-8, 2025, shining a spotlight on established design talent, new creatives, and international brands that are vying for attention on the global stage. Just like in previous years, I am focusing my attention on the debutants

by Katerina Perez

Designing the Future: Revealing the Winners of the Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest

What a ride it has been, witnessing such pure creative energy and original thinking, especially with a material as rare and futuristic as osmium

by Katerina Perez

New Icons: The Latest Collections by Italian Micromosaic Master SICIS 

I was presented with two striking new collections – Icon and Colibrì – that offer different interpretations of the SICIS aesthetic. Below, I want to give you a closer look at these capsule suites and tell you more about the inspirations behind them

by Katerina Perez

Fabulous Fabrications: TAOS Presents a Trio of Watches Inspired by Couture Fashion

Occasionally, beautiful timepieces demonstrating exceptional Métiers d’Art will land on our virtual desks and result in a round-robin series of emails. In the hours after we received insights into the emerging Swiss brand TAOS, almost the entire team had seen the fabric-inspired dials of its latest creations, and we all agreed that an article was […]

by Sarah Jordan

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Legacy of Love:The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.