Collectors’ Stones: The Spessartite Garnet

January 21, 2016

By Katerina Perez

3 min read

When anyone mentions the word ‘garnet’, I am immediately transported back to the days of thumbing through my mother’s necklaces, my particular favourite of which was a thread of crimson garnets. Bearing in mind that these stones were not especially rare in Russia, I never imagined that variations existed that were seen to be valuable collectible stones. This time last year I told you about demantoid garnet, the ‘monarch’s gemstone’; today I am going to get you a little more acquainted with different valuable garnet variation, spessartite.

Spessartite takes its name from the place where it was discovered, the mountains of Spessart in north-west Bavaria, Germany. The stone was first described in 1832, but until the 1990s, no significant, sustainable deposits were known about. In 1991 a large seam of spessartite was discovered in Namibia, then in Nigeria in 1999 and more recently in Mozambique. The mineral can also be found in small quantities in Brazil, Burma, Madagascar, Tanzania, Sri-Lanka and the US.

A spessartite garnet is typically orange-yellow, orange or orange-red in colour, due to the presence in its chemical make-up of the element manganese. Swap it to iron, and the colour will change to red or pyrope garnet. Spessartites vary in shade depending on where they come from: stones from Nigeria tend to be either bright and vivid or darker, with a reddish tint, whereas specimens from Namibia are bright electric orange, their colour often compared to that of the drink Fanta. The latter sunny orange colour is considered the rarest and most attractive, hence Namibian garnets are referred to as ‘mandarin’ garnets to differentiate them from other stones from the family.

From left to right: Boucheron Joy ring with sugar loaf mandarin garnet and diamonds; Van Cleef&Arpels ring with diamonds, turquoise, coral, chrysoprase, onyx and 1 oval-cut Mandarin garnet of 15.77 carats; Louis Vuitton Acte V Genesis ring with an oval mandarin garnet and diamonds

From left to right: Boucheron Joy ring with sugar loaf mandarin garnet and diamonds; Van Cleef&Arpels ring with diamonds, turquoise, coral, chrysoprase, onyx and 1 oval-cut Mandarin garnet of 15.77 carats; Louis Vuitton Acte V Genesis ring with an oval mandarin garnet and diamonds

An interesting feature of spessartite is that it cannot be enhanced in any way, which means that if a stone is particularly beautiful, you know it is all natural. Even though the appearance of spessartite cannot be modified, you still find imitations made using glass or other forms of garnet. Cut orange garnets can sometimes be mistaken for similarly coloured varieties of tourmaline and zircon.

You can bet a stunning gemstone which cannot be artificially tampered with is worth a stack of money! Its comparative rarity means that a high quality spessartite garnet is the object of desire for collectors of valuable precious stones. This type of garnet is usually found in large crystals, but finding a spessartite that can boast high purity is not at all easy, which explains why you rarely come across a cut stone without inclusions which exceeds 10 carats.

From left to right: Carlo Barberis one of a kind mandarin garnet cocktail ring with sapphires and diamonds; IVY New York spessartite garnet, spinel and diamond ring; 8. Anna Hu Duchess Hibiscus ring with mandarin garnet

From left to right: Carlo Barberis one of a kind mandarin garnet cocktail ring with sapphires and diamonds; IVY New York spessartite garnet, spinel and diamond ring; 8. Anna Hu Duchess Hibiscus ring with mandarin garnet

One of the more expensive spessartites ever sold that I have heard of was a mardarin garnet weighing somewhere in the region of 8 carats. It fetched a price of $2,400 per carat. As with any precious stone, the price depends fully on the quality of the stone, its carat weight and how close to perfect the colour is. It is hard to give accurate projections of the price of spessartites because their value is not always consistent, but it is certainly true that a Nigerian spessartite would be several times cheaper than one from Namibia.

Gem quality spessartite has only recently arrived on the scene, meaning it does not have the same sort aura of wonder and mystery surrounding it as, say, diamonds, but their bright, alluring colour nonetheless charms many. Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, Cartier, Dior and Louis Vuitton are among many jewellery houses who already fill their collections with exquisite examples of spessartite jewellery. As a final note, the Smithsonian Institute in Washington has three wonderful specimens to its name: two unique red-orange spessartites from Brazil, weighing 109 and 54 carats respectively, and 30 carat orange stone from Madagascar.

David Morris: New Pearl Rose Collection to the ‘Queen of Gems’

continue reading

A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

by Katerina Perez

Tailored Perfection: The Best Jewellery Looks of the Met Gala 2025

Not since 2003 has a Met Gala theme focused exclusively on menswear, so we had high hopes for this year’s attendees demonstrating the best of tailored suiting adorned with high jewels. Let’s take a closer look at some of the best ensembles of the evening…

by Sarah Jordan

Legacy of Love: The Dreamlike Jewels of Emirati Designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani

Jewellery is a transmitter of memories and emotions through time, which is something that Dubai-based designer Mariyeh Ghelichkhani knows all too well. During our meeting in Dubai, we spoke about the importance of family, the sweetness of finding joy through creativity, and the ability to translate dreamy visions and deep feelings into wearable pieces…

by Katerina Perez

Celebrating Colour: 20 Uplifting Jewellery Creations by Lisa Nik

Whether you're craving a juicy mandarin garnet or an eye-catching bi-colour tourmaline, here are 20 joyful pieces that exemplify the Lisa Nik approach, as well as the inspiration behind them…

by Sarah Jordan

Watches and Wonders 2025: The Coolest Watch Novelties

With pastel pops, Pop Art influences, and playful twists on time itself, Watches and Wonders 2025 delivered a vibrant feast of creativity. Discover the fun new watches setting trends in Geneva this spring

by Rachael Taylor

White Hot: Achromatic Jewellery is Having a Moment

Let’s explore the revival of all white jewellery and discover why this look is universally complementary – and a great investment.  

by Rachael Taylor

Reinventing Royalty: The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology 

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Watches and Wonders 2025: Eight of the Most Artful Dials 

From lovers kissing on a bridge to precious animals painted in enamel or gems, this year’s watch launches included timepieces with extraordinary dials that blur the line between watchmaking and wearable art.

by Rachael Taylor

Birthday Wishes: Embracing the Power of Being Different 

Today, I want to share my thoughts on embracing your inner self and channelling all that power into your biggest passions…

by Katerina Perez

Flip the Script: Meet the Jewellers Creating Luxury Customised Watches

Jewellery designers are increasingly turning their artistic talents to the world of horology, customising luxury watches with unique embellishments that carry their personal style signatures. From reimagined Rolexes to gemstone-studded bezels, discover how jewellers are making their mark on the world of timepieces

by Rachael Taylor

Iconic Revival: Boucheron Reinvents the Serpent Bohème Jewellery

That nostalgic feeling of seeing past creations—sometimes forgotten, sometimes iconic—sparking a rush of inspiration to reimagine and breathe new life into what once was. That's exactly what Boucheron has achieved with its latest revival: the Serpent Bohème Vintage collection

by Hirshi Sujanti

Art Deco Innovation: Exploring the Iconic Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Setting

The Mystery Setting by Van Cleef & Arpels stands out as a masterpiece of Art Deco ingenuity. As the world celebrates the centenary of Art Deco in 2025, we are taking the opportunity to spotlight one of the most technically ambitious innovations to emerge from this golden era of jewellery design

by Claire Roberts

Latest Stories

Add articles and images to your favourites. Just

Reinventing Royalty:The European-Inspired Luxury Behind Isabel Gemology

I started 2025 with a series of articles titled ‘Jeweller of the Month’ to highlight the true talent among niche designers in the jewellery industry. For May, it is Isabel Delgado, the founder of Isabel Gemology, who I would like to shine the spotlight on.

by Katerina Perez

Jewels Katerina Perez Loves

Continue Reading

Writing Adventures:Co-Authoring the Book

Paraiba: The Legacy of a Color

by Katerina Perez

Jewellery Insights straight to your inbox

Style Guide

By using this website, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. View our Privacy Policy for more information.