‘Chaumet in Majesty’: An exhibition of spectacular tiaras

August 5, 2019

By Jodie Smith

4 min read

After opening exclusively to a number of specially invited guests for a private viewing on 11th July at the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco, the ‘Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780’ exhibition showcasing exquisite tiaras will run from 12th July to 28 August 2019.

Around 250 jewelled headpieces were curated by Stéphane Bern and Christophe Vachaudez and displayed alongside a selection of exceptional sovereign jewels which contribute to the narrative of Chaumet’s relationship with royalty. Some of these rare creations are being exhibited publicly for the first time, with an incredible sum of contributions from 15 museums and 40 private lenders – including that of HSH Prince Albert II and HM Queen Margrethe II of Denmark.

Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 exhibition

Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 exhibition

The exhibit begins with Napoléon I choosing to signify he and his wife’s importance and gravitas through the Empress Joséphine’s commission of Chaumet tiaras. These designs typified the concept of ‘imperial’ through the creations of Chaumet’s founder Marie-Étienne Nitot. Following this, the exhibit chart Chaumet’s evolution into becoming the jeweller to many European courts, through the symbol of wealth and stature which the tiara became.

The 'Henckel von Donnersmarck' tiara with Colombian emeralds and diamonds in gold and silver, circa 1900, loaned by the Qatar Museum

The 'Henckel von Donnersmarck' tiara with Colombian emeralds and diamonds in gold and silver, circa 1900, loaned by the Qatar Museum

 Chaumet 'Marie Stuart' aigrette with diamonds, pearls and feather in gold and silver from 1910

Chaumet 'Marie Stuart' aigrette with diamonds, pearls and feather in gold and silver from 1910

 Chaumet 'Epis de Blé' tiara with diamonds in gold and silver from 1910

Chaumet 'Epis de Blé' tiara with diamonds in gold and silver from 1910

 'Astres' transformable brooch and aigrette with diamonds, pearls and feather in gold and silver circa 1890

'Astres' transformable brooch and aigrette with diamonds, pearls and feather in gold and silver circa 1890

 Chaumet ‘Crèvecoeur’ tiara with diamonds in gold and silver from 1910 loaned from a private collection

Chaumet ‘Crèvecoeur’ tiara with diamonds in gold and silver from 1910 loaned from a private collection

 Transformable tiara and brooch with emeralds and diamonds in gold and silver circa 1830 owned by the Leuchtenberg family (descendants of Empress Joséphine)

Transformable tiara and brooch with emeralds and diamonds in gold and silver circa 1830 owned by the Leuchtenberg family (descendants of Empress Joséphine)

 Chaumet 'Curviligne' transformable tiara and necklace with diamonds and pearls in gold and silver circa 1930

Chaumet 'Curviligne' transformable tiara and necklace with diamonds and pearls in gold and silver circa 1930

It holds a special significance in the jewellery pantheon as the most ornate and grandiose type of jewellery that it is possible to wear. The inextricable link between royalty, weddings and tiaras is one which continues to fascinate, and the popularity of this exhibit only serves as proof of this fact.

Chaumet tiara with diamonds in gold and silver

Chaumet tiara with diamonds in gold and silver

Traditionally, the crowning glory of the wedding basket gifted to brides during the 19th and 20th centuries was the tiara. Not only was this jewel a sartorial nod to social standing of the wearer, but it also conveys the identities of the two merging families. Tiaras were often redesigned and updated and could be so grandiose that they allowed for their components to be broken apart into smaller, more wearable gems. The sheer size of the tiara also allowed for the possibility of transforming into numerous other jewellery pieces: most commonly brooches, earrings, and even necklaces.

Stéphane Bern, Natalie Portman, HSH Prince Albert II, Natalia Vodianova and Jean-Marc Mansvelt at the opening of Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 exhibition

Stéphane Bern, Natalie Portman, HSH Prince Albert II, Natalia Vodianova and Jean-Marc Mansvelt at the opening of Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 exhibition

Traversing the bejewelled headwear which Chaumet has created across its illustrious history, pieces such as the ‘Pansy Flower’ tiara circa 1850, the ‘Radiant Sun’ aigrette from 1916, lead all the way up to the modern masterpieces like the ‘Vertige’ tiara created in 2017. Examples of regal pieces of high importance can also be found in the exhibition, among which are the incredible emerald and diamond tiara of Princess Henckel Von Donnersmarck circa 1900, and the resplendent ‘Pinks’ tiara ordered by Mrs. Henri de Wendel from 1905.

Chaumet ‘Pansy Flower’ tiara with diamonds in gold and silver circa 1850

Chaumet ‘Pansy Flower’ tiara with diamonds in gold and silver circa 1850

 Chaumet  ‘Radiant Sun’ aigrette with diamonds and emerald in gold and silver from 1916

Chaumet ‘Radiant Sun’ aigrette with diamonds and emerald in gold and silver from 1916

 Scott Armstrong for Chaumet ‘Vertige’ tiara with diamonds, tourmalines and garnets in white and red gold from 2017

Scott Armstrong for Chaumet ‘Vertige’ tiara with diamonds, tourmalines and garnets in white and red gold from 2017

 Chaumet ‘Pinks’ tiara with diamonds in gold and silver ordered by Mrs. Henri de Wendel from 1905

Chaumet ‘Pinks’ tiara with diamonds in gold and silver ordered by Mrs. Henri de Wendel from 1905

The opening of ‘Chaumet in Majesty: Jewels of Sovereigns Since 1780 ’ was rather grand, with CEO of Chaumet Jean-Marc Mansvelt being joined by such notable names as HSH Prince Albert II, celebrities Natalie Portman, Bérénice Bejo, Liu Yifei, Natalia Vodianova, Song Hye Kyo, Tsubasa Honda, Salma Abu Deif, Rym Saidi and Gala Gonzalez – all wearing Chaumet jewels to celebrate the occasion.

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