A Century of Sparkle: Celebrating 100 Years of Art Deco at GemGenève

To toast the centenary of perhaps the world's most iconic jewellery design movement, I have partnered with the GemGenève exhibition to curate a photographic display of 12 modern jewels, each one drawing inspiration from the spirit and style of Art Deco. From May 8-11, 2025, visitors to GemGenève can immerse themselves in a showcase of antique and modern jewellery while also experiencing the innovative spirit of the 1920s and 1930s through a photographic lens. Here, I'd like to tell you more about this creative collaboration and introduce you to the brands taking part…

I've had a wonderful relationship with the team at GemGenève since the exhibition first began in 2018. Since then, I have hosted panel discussions on diverse topics, from the evolution of jewellery to questioning what constitutes exceptional design, both in 2023. However, a real highlight took place in 2021 when I launched and hosted the FLAIR Project – a virtual gallery and independent multi-media community of creatives specialising in haute couture fashion, sculpture, painting and digital media. Together, they were united by an interest in jewellery and gemstones as a source of inspiration, something which resonated with the organisers of GemGenève, too. At the 2021 exhibition, we brought FLAIR to life with an exhibition of 15 artist-makers who showcased their works to potential buyers and the wider jewellery community. 

100-Year Anniversary of Art Deco Exhibition at GemGenève

Earlier this year, I had some exciting conversations with show organisers about the potential for a new collaboration, this time inspired by the 100th anniversary of Art Deco. As discussions abounded about displays of antique high jewels to highlight the elegance of the Art Deco era, I felt that there was another avenue that we could pursue to complement the exhibition: Art Deco-inspired designs created in the last 10 years, and this is where the idea to curate a photographic display of 12 modern jewels came from. Our shared goal is to connect the past with the present through a unique mix of history, style and creativity. 

Contemporary Jewellers Who Love Art Deco

Now, I know you are probably wondering whose works are featured in this Art Deco gallery, and I am excited to present to you Al Zain , Calla Lily, Chhaya Jain, Dorion Soares, Faith Jewels, Korbička⁠ Sperky, Liza Borzaya, Matthew Ely, Mirari Jewels, Nafees Jaipur, Nicole Winkler Jewellery and State Property. These jewellers hail from all corners of the world, but they are united by a shared interest in Art Deco and interpreting the quintessential design styles of that 20th-century period into modern creations. Many of them have tapped into Art Deco geometry, including octagonal-shaped emeralds, skyscraper-like lines of baguette-cut diamonds and repeating diamond line motifs. 

Empire State Building Inspiration

It is easy to forget that the Empire State Building – that icon of the New York skyline – was actually built between 1930 and 1931, right at the height of Art Deco. Mirari Jewels pay homage to this architectural feat with its Elegantia dangling earrings, set in 18k white gold, with cascading baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The brand's Founder and Principal Designer, Mira Gulati, tells me that Art Deco has been a consistent presence in her design language and craftsmanship for many years. "Our creations channel the spirit of Art Deco with a contemporary sensibility that celebrates not only the beauty but also the artistry and innovation that continues to shape fine jewellery across generations," she says. 

Structural forms of Art Deco

Also drawing upon structural forms, Matthew Ely has created a truly special piece in the form of a transformable brooch pendant with a 24.34-carat bi-colour tourmaline surrounded by colour fade sapphires and diamonds, set in 18k white gold. Although bi-colour tourmalines weren't the height of fashion in the late 1920s and 1930s, coloured stones like aquamarine, citrine, and turquoise were popular alongside the 'big three' – emeralds, sapphires and rubies. The injection of such a captivating gem is the perfect way to add a contemporary touch to such an architectural labyrinth of diamond lines. "I've always been drawn to the elegance of the Art Deco era," Matthew tells me. "Its bold geometry and timeless glamour still feel fresh a century on. You'll notice that influence in many of my brooches and cocktail rings – designs that nod to the glamour and rebellion of the 1920s."

Carved Gems and Art Deco

Another prominent Art Deco trend was the use of carved gemstones. This was a time of burgeoning international travel and discovery. The unveiling of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 was a milestone moment, kickstarting an obsession with Egyptian but also Indian and Far Eastern mythologies and cultural artefacts. French Maisons like Cartier drew inspiration from the Maharajahs of India, transforming the Indian tradition of beautifully carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires into the Art Deco' Tutti Frutti' concept. Evidence of the longevity of all these influences can be seen in a sumptuous sautoir necklace by Nafees Jaipur, complete with a 17.18 carat carved Zambian emerald and a pair of matching 24.24-carat emerald stud earrings. Both are set in 18k white gold with diamonds and polished onyx. Nafees Founder Anju Jain explains: "Art Deco is a philosophy — a devotion to the quiet drama of structure, craftsmanship, and spirit. Our creations reflect those who carry strength and elegance in every line they wear."

Onyx in Art Deco

Speaking of onyx, this material cannot be underestimated. The contrast of white diamonds (or rock crystal) with black onyx is a significant identifier of Art Deco jewellery, and we continue to see this today. A good example is the Deco ring by Faith Jewels, set with a flawless oval diamond and hand-cut onyx inlay in an octagonal silhouette. Another ring by Liza Borzaya swaps a diamond centre stone for an octagonal-shaped emerald, combining this with rigid lines and rectangles of black enamel and angular lines of diamonds… a perfect example of Art Deco contrast in action! "Art Deco for me is not about symmetry alone – it's about the rhythm of repetition," says Faith Hilda Quek, the Founder and Creative Director of Faith Jewels. "We never just copy an era, we interpret it. I see Deco as a mood, not a template. The challenge is to take its energy and elevate it into something rare, something emotionally resonant." 

Contrasting Hues of Art Deco

Brazilian jeweller Dorion Soares also utilises black as a contrasting hue; however, his interpretation is strikingly modern, with blackened gold paired with a rainbow of coloured gems. The Amazonia bracelet, for example, is set with a 46-carat Ethiopian opal, tanzanites, rubellites, emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines, and diamonds. In this piece, we see a reference point that is specific to Brazilian culture – the cocar headdress – fused with the geometric principles of the 1930s, demonstrating the versatility of Art Deco design. Dorion confirms: "My contemporary approach to Art Deco is a way to celebrate the vivid beauty of Brazilian gemstones, cultural uniqueness and heritage with clean lines, striking forms and vibrant contrasts."

Focus on Sautoirs

The photos appearing at GemGenève this month also spotlight sautoirs. Imagine you were a 1920s flapper, setting aside 'old fashioned' corsets for drop-waist gowns that prioritised a slim, boyish frame. This was renegade fashion – bold, forward-thinking and exciting. A long-line sautoir necklace lay elegantly down the front of one's body, drawing the eye lengthways and accentuating the long-willowy frame that was so craved. A particularly exciting modern example is by Mumbai-based artist Chhaya Jain, set with emeralds, opals, black onyx and a dramatic 110.85-carat emerald tassel. When I asked her to describe Art Deco, she came back with "flamboyant and dazzling" and "modern, refined and effortlessly stylish," which is reiterated by so many other participants. I think my favourite is what she said about Art Deco representing "an era that refuses to look back, only forward". This was indeed a time of futurism, especially in things like air travel and train travel. 

'RetroFuturism' associated with Art Deco

You may also see the phrase 'RetroFuturism' associated with Art Deco and the way in which its proponents imagined the future of technology, transport and even space travel. I think we can see this in an alluring pair of earring jackets by Calla Lily, set with step-cut tanzanites, triangular-cut grey mother of pearl and diamonds. Of course, tanzanites weren't even discovered until the late 1960s, so there's no way a fashion-forward jewellery connoisseur in the 1930s could have snapped up these beauties! This version of Art Deco futurism is entirely for a new generation. Emily Tan of Calla Lily is inspired by this "forward-thinking spirit" for sure, although she also believes that Art Deco is important for its ability to "resonate deeply with both the feminine form and mind".

Timeless Elegance of Art Deco

Certainly, we can see this femininity bursting from pieces by Al Zain and Korbička Šperky, both of which swap the more traditional step-cut gems of Art Deco with softer pear shapes. A necklace by the former combines swags of baroque natural pearls with diamond-set motifs, both of which lead the eye to a sensational 19.27-carat Paraiba tourmaline from Mozambique. Recently, we wrote about the brand's Arab Deco collection, which is the perfect blend of Bahraini style and Art Deco inspiration. In contrast, the Émeraude de Minuit earrings by Korbička Šperky combine 12 carats of emeralds with four carats of diamonds, accented with millgrain detailing that soared in popularity during the Art Deco period. "It's a reminder that fashion is cyclical," says Founder and Creative Director Luboš Korbička. "1920s motifs are a constant source of inspiration because they never really went out of style. Art Deco is not just as a design style but as a visual language that speaks to me more deeply than any other. It isn't just about aesthetics—it's a philosophy. Clean lines, geometric power, and a deep respect for materials and craftsmanship."

Archways in Art Deco

Last but certainly not least, I will highlight pieces at GemGenève that really push the boundaries of Art Deco for a new generation of buyers. Sydney-based artisan Nicole Winkler has created a beautiful and transformable brooch pendant with a vivid green tourmaline surrounded by pavé-set diamond arcs, green sapphire baguettes, and kite-shaped tourmalines. We don't often think of curving shapes in the context of Art Deco, but actually, archways and arches were a prominent feature of architecture and interior design during this decade.  Nicole says: "What I love about Art Deco is its celebration of design—every line considered; every detail intentional. In my work, I'm drawn to the juxtaposition of crisp architectural lines with arcing curves and the subtle brilliance of step-cut gems. Art Deco is elegance without excess, creativity within structure, and it continues to influence how I design and create today." 

Modern storytellers of Art Deco

Finally, there's the Singaporean brand State Property, which I have always thought of as a modern master of Art Deco. Its Raisina Snowdrop brooch (from the Special Edition Gardens collection) is something of a favourite, complete with emeralds, diamonds, Akoya pearls and mother of pearls in a shape reminiscent of the Amrit Udyan gardens in India. It is worth noting that despite its popularity today, yellow gold was not en vogue in the 1920s and 1930s. Instead, collectors favoured platinum and 18k white gold as more elegant choices. Therefore, merging Art Deco design principles with yellow gold is a great way to toast the old and celebrate the new. State Property Co-Founder Afzal Imram says: "We're enchanted by how this era mastered the art of saying 'more is more' and 'less is more' simultaneously. We see ourselves as modern storytellers in this tradition, creating pieces that hint at Art Deco's timeless confidence while speaking directly to today's discerning collector."

I hope this demonstrates just how much care, attention, and thought has gone into this upcoming photographic display at GemGenève. I can't wait to celebrate the joys of Art Deco with you while also spotlighting the designers and brands who keep this crucial part of design history alive today.