Butterfly jewellery: Fluttering designs to capture the spirit

August 19, 2019

By Jodie Smith

9 min read

One of the most feminine and charming iterations of fauna inspired jewellery appearing season after season is butterfly designs. From their symbolic meanings to their inherent beauty, the butterfly appeals as a theme to jewellery designers and collectors alike resulting in the birth of separate masterpieces as well as whole collections that are dedicated to these delicate creatures.

The celebrated Taiwanese jewellery artist Anna Hu bears the surname that translates from Chinese as ‘butterfly’. It is not surprising that she has made it a tradition to create high jewellery butterflies every year, each being unique. Butterflies have long become the signature motif of Hong Kong based designer Jessica Fong, as in her culture: “they symbolise transformation of life and are believed to bring happiness, that’s why these charming creatures have become my muse”.

Jessica Fong butterfly brooch with diamonds in white gold

Jessica Fong butterfly brooch with diamonds in white gold

 SICIS butterfly ring with micromosaic and diamonds in yellow gold

SICIS butterfly ring with micromosaic and diamonds in yellow gold

 Ilgiz F. butterfly rings with diamonds and enamel in yellow gold

Ilgiz F. butterfly rings with diamonds and enamel in yellow gold

Stenzhorn has created an extensive ‘Butterfly Lovers’ collection of rings, earrings, and necklaces which is an ode to the Chinese legend of the same name. A young couple’s ill-fated love story ends in both of them transforming into butterflies, and having their souls live on together forever. De Beers has just presented its latest ‘Portraits of Nature’ collection dedicating a whole ‘The Monarch Butterfly’ chapter to the fluttering beauty. It was embodied in a gorgeous medallion with a 4.11 cts fancy brown yellow cushion cut diamond, delicate between the finger rings and earrings fashioned as ear jackets.

SICIS butterfly necklace with micromosaic , sapphires and diamonds in white gold

SICIS butterfly necklace with micromosaic , sapphires and diamonds in white gold

Though it’s true that butterfly fine jewellery designs are especially prevalent with jewellers from the Far East, their fluttering wings and intricate markings create an extraordinary natural beauty which is highly desirable. People have been enraptured by butterflies since the age of the Cabinet de Curositié, followed by the Victorian trend for catching and displaying them in frames as part of an exotic décor. 

Even though on a basic level butterflies represent hope and freedom – as many winged animals do – in the case of fine jewellery, they are an especially appealing being to depict in precious materials. The natural form and patterning of butterfly wings allow designers a chance to experiment in a more abstract way than when depicting many other creatures and this is what makes their creative journey so exciting.

Tiffany&Co.

Tiffany&Co.

'Blue Book 2019' collection choker with diamonds in yellow gold

Anna Hu

Anna Hu

'Le Papillon' ring with ruby and diamonds in platinum

G by Glenn Spiro

G by Glenn Spiro

'Papillon' ring with tsavorites and diamonds in titanium

Ilgiz F.

Ilgiz F.

Earrings with enamel, lapis lazuli and diamonds in white gold

Anna Hu

Anna Hu

'Le Papillon' ring with rubellite, sapphires, amethysts, Paraiba tourmalines, morganite, demantoid garnets and diamonds in platinum

De Beers

De Beers

'Monarch Butterfly' ring with fancy coloured diamonds and colourless diamonds in white gold

Canturi

Canturi

Ring with diamonds in rose gold

Eliane Fattal x Sotheby's Diamonds

Eliane Fattal x Sotheby's Diamonds

'Butterflies' necklace with a pair of antique butterflies, diamonds and demantoid garnets in platinum and gold

Anna Hu

Anna Hu

'Le Papillon' ring with zircon, Paraiba tourmaline, sapphires and diamonds in platinum

De Beers

De Beers

'Monarch Butterfly' ring with fancy coloured diamonds and colourless diamonds in white gold

Jessica Fong

Jessica Fong

Ring with pink sapphires and diamonds in rose gold

Jessica Fong

Jessica Fong

Ring with yellow sapphires and diamonds in white gold

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels

'Pavonia' brooch with lapis lazuli, mother of pearl, sapphires and diamonds in white gold

Silvia Furmanovich

Silvia Furmanovich

Earrings with wood marquetry, tsavorites and diamonds in yellow gold

Ilgiz F.

Ilgiz F.

Ring with enamel and diamonds in yellow gold

Annoushka

Annoushka

'Butterflies' cuff with diamonds in yellow gold

Chopard

Chopard

'Haute Joaillerie' collection transformable cuff with topaz, Paraiba tourmalines and amethysts in titanium

Graff

Graff

'Butterfly' watch with emeralds and diamonds in white gold

Graff

Graff

Ring with sapphires and diamonds in white gold

Stenzhorn

Stenzhorn

'Butterfly Lovers' earrings with rubies and diamonds in white gold

Stephen Webster

Stephen Webster

'Crystal Haze' ring with opalescent quartz and black diamonds in white gold

Sarah Zhuang

Sarah Zhuang

Earrings with diamonds and coloured sapphires in pink and white gold

Stenzhorn

Stenzhorn

'Butterfly Lovers' ring with sapphires and diamonds in white gold

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