Alchemy of Light: De Beers’ New High Jewellery Blazes with Brilliance

January 31, 2022

By Katerina Perez

6 min read

We cannot see light itself, but its properties – reflection, refraction and absorption – allow us to perceive the colours and shapes around us. Interacting with the world, light finds new ways to show us the true beauty of nature. Inspired by this elemental magic, De Beers Jewellers has created a new high jewellery collection: The Alchemist of Light, the first part of which was presented on January 24 at Paris Fashion Week.

The Alchemist of Light collection consists of seven sets that contain 45 one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces. I saw around a dozen pieces from two sets, Atomique and Light Rays, which are completely different from each other in both style and mood.

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique collar necklace with an 18.57 carat internally flawless diamond at its centre and a further 1,907 diamonds

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique collar necklace with an 18.57 carat internally flawless diamond at its centre and a further 1,907 diamonds

 The De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique collar necklace is inspired by the molecular structure of diamonds

The De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique collar necklace is inspired by the molecular structure of diamonds

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique double open ring with two contrasting motifs that appear to float like satellites

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique double open ring with two contrasting motifs that appear to float like satellites

 A model wears the De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique stud earrings

A model wears the De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique stud earrings

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique stud earrings

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique stud earrings

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique hoop earrings inspired by a diamond’s crystalline patterning

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique hoop earrings inspired by a diamond’s crystalline patterning

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique hoop earrings

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique hoop earrings

Made up of seven amazing creations, the Atomique collection is a creative interpretation of diamonds at a molecular level, depicted using geometric patterns and abstract motifs. The monochromatic colour scheme of the extraordinary white diamond necklace, rings and earrings set in 18K white gold signifies the unspoiled clarity of the diamond’s prismatic composition.

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique diamond pavé choker with a line of diamonds that can be removed and attached to a stud earring

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique diamond pavé choker with a line of diamonds that can be removed and attached to a stud earring

Atomique’s most spectacular piece is a bold collar necklace made of 1,907 brilliant-cut diamonds, the largest of which weighs 18.57 carats. To be honest, it looked like 25 carats, or at least that was my first impression. This optical illusion, as explained by the company’s employees, is due to a wide halo of pavé diamonds around the central stone. The brand’s designers took advantage of this “trick” when creating Atomique jewellery and played favourably on the contrast between melee sprinkles and large diamonds. Incidentally, I cannot ignore another impressive diamond from the company’s special selection of stones in its Natural Works of Art collection. The diamond weighs 11.03 carats and adorns a bangle bracelet.

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique collar necklace with an 18.57 carat internally flawless diamond at its centre and a further 1,907 diamonds

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Atomique collar necklace with an 18.57 carat internally flawless diamond at its centre and a further 1,907 diamonds

We have covered monochrome jewellery, so now let’s move on to colour. The nine jewels in the other set, Light Rays, are an interpretation of sunlight shining over mountain tops or from behind dark clouds at the moment of peak perfection in the sky. Expanding design horizons, fancy rough and polished warm-coloured diamonds encrust a frame of gold and… titanium!

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Fringe earrings with coloured titanium, white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold, and fancy-coloured diamonds

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Fringe earrings with coloured titanium, white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold, and fancy-coloured diamonds

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Crown ring with a 1.08 carat fancy vivid orange yellow square emerald-cut diamond and detachable Light Rays motif

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Crown ring with a 1.08 carat fancy vivid orange yellow square emerald-cut diamond and detachable Light Rays motif

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Chandelier earrings with fancy yellow diamonds, titanium and white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Chandelier earrings with fancy yellow diamonds, titanium and white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Cocktail ring with a fancy yellow diamond and fan-shaped titanium elements

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Cocktail ring with a fancy yellow diamond and fan-shaped titanium elements

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays ear cuff with a one carat fancy deep brownish yellow radiant-cut diamond

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays ear cuff with a one carat fancy deep brownish yellow radiant-cut diamond

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Double Crown ring with coloured titanium, white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold, and fancy-coloured diamonds

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Double Crown ring with coloured titanium, white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold, and fancy-coloured diamonds

If my memory serves me correctly, De Beers only used classic precious metals previously and so this novelty is the contribution of De Beers’ CEO, Celine Assimon, to the development of the company, which she has been running since 2020. Fan-shaped anodised gold and brown titanium elements are arranged in three rows and symbolise the scattered rays of light. They are embellished with miniature serifs, like the jewels from the iconic De Beers ‘Talisman’ collection, and the more of these serifs there are, the more they create additional volume, emphasising the jewellery’s key features.

Designing The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays set at De Beers Jewellers

Designing The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays set at De Beers Jewellers

Lines of colourless diamonds contrast with striking rhodium-plated black gold, representing beams of light emanating from the shadows. The fluidity of the diamond-shaped details, the extreme level of detail and the layering of colours create a mesmerising visual and tactile experience!

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays bracelet with coloured titanium, white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold, and a fancy-coloured diamond centre

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays bracelet with coloured titanium, white diamonds set against black rhodium-plated gold, and a fancy-coloured diamond centre

Our new The Alchemist of Light high jewellery collection represents the pinnacle of diamond expertise and artistry. These daring designs push creative and technical boundaries, inspired by the exceptional diamonds that De Beers is able to source, cut and polish to the most exacting standards. A sublime fusion of art and science, precision and imagination, tradition and modernity. We understand and care passionately that our clients not only express their individuality through these wearable works of art, but also bring another layer to the creative story. In this respect, our clients are true alchemists of light too. – Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewellers

A model wears Light Rays pieces from De Beers Jewellers’ The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Collection

A model wears Light Rays pieces from De Beers Jewellers’ The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Collection

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Chandelier earrings

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Chandelier earrings

 A model wears The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Crown ring from De Beers Jewellers

A model wears The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Crown ring from De Beers Jewellers

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Crown ring with a 1.08 carat fancy vivid orange yellow square emerald-cut diamond

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays Crown ring with a 1.08 carat fancy vivid orange yellow square emerald-cut diamond

 De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays tasselled pendant, which can be detached and used as a handbag charm

De Beers Jewellers The Alchemist of Light High Jewellery Light Rays tasselled pendant, which can be detached and used as a handbag charm

Would you like to see the second part of the collection that consists of five sets? Its presentation will take place in July as part of this summer’s Paris Fashion Week. I will definitely be covering that here.

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