Bespoke Christmas: Why a Custom Jewellery Commission is the Ultimate Gift

November 12, 2021

By Katerina Perez

10 min read

The festive season and bespoke commissioned jewellery go hand-in-hand. After all, what says ‘I love you’ better than a jewel made specially to suit his or her exact tastes? To celebrate the bespoke process for the holidays, I asked a group of experienced jewellers to share what they love about custom-made creations. They told me stories about making unique pieces from start to finish, as well as the emotions and memories their clients share with them on the journey. Jewellery may not be therapy, but it is certainly a window onto a life well-lived.

Tis the season for gifting and, for those with a specific vision in mind, the best option is often to commission a bespoke piece from a jeweller whose signature style aligns with your own (or your loved one’s). The process of creating a jewel from imagination to finished product is different for each jeweller; it requires skill, patience and knowledge of your craft to take the sketches and ideas of a client and transform them into something wearable, adored and on budget. The six designer brands included below each have their own methods and the results are beautiful. If you are determined to see something unique blossom this festive season, may I suggest you reach out to them fast.

The Calla Lily Jade Spring Reeds brooch in the design stages, alongside the bespoke client’s inherited jade bracelet and older rings that were being remodelled. This new piece is set with jade, marquise-cut tsavorites, baguette- and rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold

The Calla Lily Jade Spring Reeds brooch in the design stages, alongside the bespoke client’s inherited jade bracelet and older rings that were being remodelled. This new piece is set with jade, marquise-cut tsavorites, baguette- and rose-cut diamonds in 18k white gold

Nigel O’Reilly

Based in the west of Ireland, Nigel O’Reilly started his career as an engineer before turning to the world of fine jewellery design. In 2009, he created his own studio to blend ancient and modern techniques in his own inimitable style, complete with vibrant and voracious quantities of coloured gemstones. His recognisable gold latticework is a signature of the brand, as are generous volumes and undulating shapes. Customers who enjoy these calling cards are those who return time and time again for bespoke pieces. He explains: “I find great satisfaction in the union between the piece and the person who wears it. This balances at a point of tension between innovative technology and nature’s own creation. I believe when you are gifted something as rare as a gemstone it is your duty to realise its beauty with your client.”

Nigel O’Reilly Blue Rose ring with a 0.50 carat pear-shaped diamond set in 18k rose gold with tsavorite garnets, blue sapphires and rubies

Nigel O’Reilly Blue Rose ring with a 0.50 carat pear-shaped diamond set in 18k rose gold with tsavorite garnets, blue sapphires and rubies

 Nigel O'Reilly crafting a Rose ring with petals of pavé-set coloured gemstones

Nigel O'Reilly crafting a Rose ring with petals of pavé-set coloured gemstones

 Nigel O'Reilly crafting a bespoke sapphire engagement ring with diamond-set shoulders

Nigel O'Reilly crafting a bespoke sapphire engagement ring with diamond-set shoulders

 Ireland-based jewellery designer and bespoke jeweller Nigel O’Reilly in the workshop

Ireland-based jewellery designer and bespoke jeweller Nigel O’Reilly in the workshop

 The Nigel O'Reilly jewellery-making studio space in the west of Ireland

The Nigel O'Reilly jewellery-making studio space in the west of Ireland

 The consultation space where Nigel O'Reilly can discuss bespoke jewellery commissions with his private clients

The consultation space where Nigel O'Reilly can discuss bespoke jewellery commissions with his private clients

 Nigel O’Reilly Fuchsia Pearl earrings in 18k white gold with rubies and golden South Sea pearls

Nigel O’Reilly Fuchsia Pearl earrings in 18k white gold with rubies and golden South Sea pearls

 Nigel O’Reilly Opicie Scapolite ring with a 5.9ct trillion-cut scapolite set in 18k rose gold, alongside blue and pink sapphires, rubies and diamonds

Nigel O’Reilly Opicie Scapolite ring with a 5.9ct trillion-cut scapolite set in 18k rose gold, alongside blue and pink sapphires, rubies and diamonds

 Nigel O’Reilly Sarabarde Garnet ring with a 4.83ct cushion-cut umbalite garnet set in 18k rose gold with honeycomb shoulders and undercarriage featuring 222 rubies, pink sapphires and yellow diamonds

Nigel O’Reilly Sarabarde Garnet ring with a 4.83ct cushion-cut umbalite garnet set in 18k rose gold with honeycomb shoulders and undercarriage featuring 222 rubies, pink sapphires and yellow diamonds

 Nigel O’Reilly Zephyrus Aquamarine ring with a 5.9ct cushion-cut aquamarine set in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires, blue and white diamonds with latticed shoulders

Nigel O’Reilly Zephyrus Aquamarine ring with a 5.9ct cushion-cut aquamarine set in 18k rose gold with pink sapphires, blue and white diamonds with latticed shoulders

Nuun Jewels

Saudi Arabian-born designer Nourah Al Faisal relies on her intuition and the ‘energies’ of gemstones to build her collections at Nuun Jewels. When it comes to bespoke pieces, she must combine these energies with the spirit of her clients to find the perfect blend of personality, style and materials. Certainly, no easy task! She says: “When a piece of jewellery is commissioned it’s the beginning of an intimate conversation between the designer and the client, memories of personal events and hopes are shared and, from this dialogue, a jewel is created that captures a moment in time unique to that individual at that particular point in their lifetime. It creates a bond between both the designer and the client, and for me it is the most beautiful thing about what I do.”

Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

 Nuun Jewels Pear rings in 18k yellow gold with a 9.03ct pear-shaped diamond in each, which are designed to be worn alone or together

Nuun Jewels Pear rings in 18k yellow gold with a 9.03ct pear-shaped diamond in each, which are designed to be worn alone or together

 Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

Nuun Jewels pear-cut diamond ring in 18k gold

 Two pear-cut diamond and 18k yellow gold rings by Nuun Jewels fit perfectly together like two puzzle pieces

Two pear-cut diamond and 18k yellow gold rings by Nuun Jewels fit perfectly together like two puzzle pieces

 The process of designing the Navette ring by Nuun Jewels

The process of designing the Navette ring by Nuun Jewels

 Nuun Jewels Navette ring in yellow gold with a 3.10ct marquise-shaped diamond and red spinels

Nuun Jewels Navette ring in yellow gold with a 3.10ct marquise-shaped diamond and red spinels

Calla Lily

Led by Emily Tan from Singapore, Calla Lily is a fine jewellery brand that infuses all her personal experiences of bespoke shoemaking, costume jewellery, fashion and design gleaned in London, Milan and New York. Hers are classical, feminine and whimsical designs that utilise a colourful palette of gemstones in unusual and unexpected ways. As she says, “every handcrafted piece starts with a conversation” and “no idea is too outlandish, no detail too insignificant, and no occasion too small to mark”. Emily continues: “People’s ideas, people’s stories, people’s experiences, they all give us inspiration. What we’re looking for is your heart’s desire. A custom-made jewellery piece allows you to tell a personal story, whether it be a memorable event, special relationship, or milestone in your life, you can express this through a co-created piece with our designers.”

Calla Lily bespoke Constellations turquoise necklace with a detachable aquamarine and Paraiba tourmaline brooch in 18k white gold, set with sapphires, moonstones, opals and diamonds

Calla Lily bespoke Constellations turquoise necklace with a detachable aquamarine and Paraiba tourmaline brooch in 18k white gold, set with sapphires, moonstones, opals and diamonds

 Calla Lily bespoke Constellation brooch in 18k white and yellow gold with portrait square-cut aquamarines of 17.68 carats, Paraiba tourmalines, sapphires, indigo tourmalines, moonstones, opals and diamonds

Calla Lily bespoke Constellation brooch in 18k white and yellow gold with portrait square-cut aquamarines of 17.68 carats, Paraiba tourmalines, sapphires, indigo tourmalines, moonstones, opals and diamonds

 Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, designing the Constellation necklace with a detachable brooch inspired by the customer's turquoise beads

Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, designing the Constellation necklace with a detachable brooch inspired by the customer's turquoise beads

 Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, drew inspiration from her customer's turquoise beads when selecting aquamarines for this bespoke piece

Calla Lily Founder, Emily Tan, drew inspiration from her customer's turquoise beads when selecting aquamarines for this bespoke piece

 The ideal combination of turquoise and aquamarines for a bespoke creation by Calla Lily

The ideal combination of turquoise and aquamarines for a bespoke creation by Calla Lily

 Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring with a 2.83 carat cushion-cut spinel, round brilliant, rose-, pear- and marquise-cut diamonds

Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring with a 2.83 carat cushion-cut spinel, round brilliant, rose-, pear- and marquise-cut diamonds

 The Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring in the early stages of the bespoke design process

The Calla Lily Wild Flower Mahenge spinel ring in the early stages of the bespoke design process

Elizabeth Gage

Just like discovering treasure, Elizabeth Gage has been creating jewellery for 50 years in her own gloriously golden style. She combines different elements in her work, chosen for their individual beauty; exquisite stones, ancient bronzes, beautiful carvings, baroque pearls, anything where the shape and colour inspire her. Should you approach Elizabeth for a bespoke commission, you will encounter a team of goldsmiths, setters and enamellers ready to bring your vision to life. She tells me: “We dream of a jewel that is our own, one that will be unique. It is so much fun to sit down with a client and to find out what they really want, and to put it into a piece of jewellery that will be with them forever is very special.”

Elizabeth Gage Templar Band ring with pale tangerine enamel, alongside a diamond-set Templar Band and an aquamarine and diamond Tapered Templar ring

Elizabeth Gage Templar Band ring with pale tangerine enamel, alongside a diamond-set Templar Band and an aquamarine and diamond Tapered Templar ring

  Elizabeth Gage Amethyst Agincourt with a 2.56 carat amethyst, triangular carved gold sections and a foxtail chain set in 18k yellow gold

Elizabeth Gage Amethyst Agincourt with a 2.56 carat amethyst, triangular carved gold sections and a foxtail chain set in 18k yellow gold

 Elizabeth Gage Templar rings including pieces set with coloured gemstones and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

Elizabeth Gage Templar rings including pieces set with coloured gemstones and diamonds in 18k yellow gold

 Elizabeth Gage 18k yellow gold Shiraz pin set with an oval cabochon aquamarine intaglio engraved with a starfish design, alongside marquise-cut diamonds

Elizabeth Gage 18k yellow gold Shiraz pin set with an oval cabochon aquamarine intaglio engraved with a starfish design, alongside marquise-cut diamonds

 Designing the Shiraz pink with an aquamarine intaglio and diamonds by Elizabeth Gage

Designing the Shiraz pink with an aquamarine intaglio and diamonds by Elizabeth Gage

Brummé Design

Christina Brummet pulls from art, literature and architecture for her jewels, which are presented to the world under the Brummé name. Her bespoke pieces reflect the intellectual background of her clients – their passions, interests and obsessions – but also suit those who wish to create their own little ‘stir’ with jewellery that’s non-conformist and striking. She says: ““From the beginning, I have had a preference for special gemstones. Finding them is often as difficult as searching for truffles. This can be a special mine, an unusual deposit or even the fact that’s an unheated gemstone. Such unique beauties literally demand to be set in scene in a bespoke jewellery piece.”

Brummé La Rete ring with a Imperial topaz centre stone

Brummé La Rete ring with a Imperial topaz centre stone

The custom design of the Brummé La Rete ring was inspired by a children's toy

The custom design of the Brummé La Rete ring was inspired by a children's toy

A closer look at the details of the La Rete ring by Brummé Design

A closer look at the details of the La Rete ring by Brummé Design

The process of designing the Brummé La Rete ringbegan with wax and 3D printed models

The process of designing the Brummé La Rete ringbegan with wax and 3D printed models

The Imperial topaz at the centre of the Brummé La Rete ring is pictured in the book "Secrets of the Gem Trade" by Richard Wise and was recur by master lapidarist, John Dyer

The Imperial topaz at the centre of the Brummé La Rete ring is pictured in the book "Secrets of the Gem Trade" by Richard Wise and was recur by master lapidarist, John Dyer

Hannah Martin

Those with a rebellious streak need look no further than London-based designer, Hannah Martin, whose brand is wrapped up in England’s “counter-revolution” of the 1980s and 1990s. Her pieces evoke the “atmosphere in the room of live music venues,” which is a sentiment I love, as well as “feelings of elation, excitement, pleasure, restraint, awe and revelation,” which are all things we hope to gain from bespoke jewellery too! “Bespoke is so utterly personal, it has to reflect the person that will wear it – it has to be a part of them, even before they put it on,” Hannah explains. “A bespoke piece is kind of the ultimate storytelling – with a real-life muse sitting right in front of me. It is honestly such a thrill every time.”

Three hand-painted sketches for a bespoke customer to choose from by Hannah Martin

Three hand-painted sketches for a bespoke customer to choose from by Hannah Martin

 A completed bespoke necklace by Hannah Martin alongside its original design sketch

A completed bespoke necklace by Hannah Martin alongside its original design sketch

 A bespoke pearl creation by London-based jeweller, Hannah Martin

A bespoke pearl creation by London-based jeweller, Hannah Martin

 A closer look at the details of a bespoke jewellery piece by Hannah Martin

A closer look at the details of a bespoke jewellery piece by Hannah Martin

 Hannah Martin is inspired by the atmosphere of live music venues for her jewellery

Hannah Martin is inspired by the atmosphere of live music venues for her jewellery

 Hannah Martin designs all aspects of her bespoke jewels including clasp components

Hannah Martin designs all aspects of her bespoke jewels including clasp components

 Hand-drawn pearls versus real-life pearls in a bespoke Hannah Martin jewellery piece

Hand-drawn pearls versus real-life pearls in a bespoke Hannah Martin jewellery piece

We are heading towards Christmas and the holiday season right now, but bespoke jewellery has no restrictions! Your calendar can be bursting with jewelled uniqueness whether it’s Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, summer, autumn, blue-skied or grey. We can enjoy the limitless beauty of jewellery all year round.

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